how to remove limit pin going D to TD pump? - page 2 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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#15 by R.O.R-2.0 on 13 Mar, 2011 12:41
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unless you need to pour copious amounts of coals out your tail pipe, it really doesnt need to be modified..
most users find thier pump throws down quite fine for every day activities..
ive had 2 different pumps, one had the pin, one did not, both had the same LDA on them.
and i found that i got more power/smoke out of the one that STILL HAD THE PIN.. -
#16 by Digital K on 13 Mar, 2011 15:20
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thanks for the input on that.
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#17 by carrizog60 on 13 Mar, 2011 15:25
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many things can affect that...
and it doesent makes difference if you dont grind the lda pin -
#18 by regcheeseman on 13 Mar, 2011 15:32
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unless you need to pour copious amounts of coals out your tail pipe, it really doesnt need to be modified..
Oh yes it does, I get some AAZ pumps in that the stop is so severe that you can grind the LDA all you like because it doesn't even come into play until you get rid of the stop.
I took some pictures of the last one I did, it was a 1.6 TD - they aren't affected too much by the fitment of the pin.
Here it is in Crezz' 1.6 pump, I've removed the governor as that's normally the only way to gain access to shift it.
You can see the pin sticking into the pump.
Removing the governor can be tricky, I mark the bolt and lock nut with a centre punch and count the turns to remove it (normally 16) - dont pull it out completely, just enough to lift the gov out , catch hold of the gov weights as they WILL fall into the pump.
It's pushed into place and the hole peened over to stop it coming back out so you have to remove some material, I do this with a dremel before opening pump
The pin is a tight fit and needs tapping out with a punch, I just leave it in place and dob on some JB to stop any leaks
You could trim it off, for my pump I removed it and I fitted a bolt in with sealant. -
#19 by R.O.R-2.0 on 13 Mar, 2011 17:51
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unless you need to pour copious amounts of coals out your tail pipe, it really doesnt need to be modified..
Oh yes it does, I get some AAZ pumps in that the stop is so severe that you can grind the LDA all you like because it doesn't even come into play until you get rid of the stop.
I took some pictures of the last one I did, it was a 1.6 TD - they aren't affected too much by the fitment of the pin.
Here it is in Crezz' 1.6 pump, I've removed the governor as that's normally the only way to gain access to shift it.
You can see the pin sticking into the pump.
Removing the governor can be tricky, I mark the bolt and lock nut with a centre punch and count the turns to remove it (normally 16) - dont pull it out completely, just enough to lift the gov out , catch hold of the gov weights as they WILL fall into the pump.
It's pushed into place and the hole peened over to stop it coming back out so you have to remove some material, I do this with a dremel before opening pump
The pin is a tight fit and needs tapping out with a punch, I just leave it in place and dob on some JB to stop any leaks
You could trim it off, for my pump I removed it and I fitted a bolt in with sealant.
this is EXACTLY how i modified my pumps.. glad im not the only one crazy enough to do it.. -
#20 by fatmobile on 13 Mar, 2011 22:21
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unless you need to pour copious amounts of coals out your tail pipe, it really doesnt need to be modified..
most users find thier pump throws down quite fine for every day activities..
ive had 2 different pumps, one had the pin, one did not, both had the same LDA on them.
and i found that i got more power/smoke out of the one that STILL HAD THE PIN..
You had a pump that was originally TD and it had the long pin just pictured,
that gets in the way of the LDA arm?
Both of these LDAs had the arm on the front? or the cold start lever side?
The one in my pic has the arm on the cold start half of the pump.
I've seen it on the other side,.. but it had no pin either, it would just get in the way. -
#21 by R.O.R-2.0 on 13 Mar, 2011 22:42
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unless you need to pour copious amounts of coals out your tail pipe, it really doesnt need to be modified..
most users find thier pump throws down quite fine for every day activities..
ive had 2 different pumps, one had the pin, one did not, both had the same LDA on them.
and i found that i got more power/smoke out of the one that STILL HAD THE PIN..
You had a pump that was originally TD and it had the long pin just pictured,
that gets in the way of the LDA arm?
Both of these LDAs had the arm on the front? or the cold start lever side?
The one in my pic has the arm on the cold start half of the pump.
I've seen it on the other side,.. but it had no pin either, it would just get in the way.
i worded that wrong..
my true TD pump, had no pin in it, and an LDA on top..
the other pump i was talking about tho, started out life as a n/a pump, thats why it had the pin in the side. (that i removed)
the reason they had the same LDA on top, is because i took it off one pump, and put it on the other..
pretty sure the arm on my LDA is on the pin side, not the cold start side. actually im about positive it is. cause it was opposite the fuel screw.. -
#22 by Digital K on 13 Mar, 2011 23:58
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I am admittedly really confused.
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#23 by regcheeseman on 14 Mar, 2011 05:00
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You had a pump that was originally TD and it had the long pin just pictured,
that gets in the way of the LDA arm?
No - it stops the throttle plate before it even reaches the LDA arm - that's how any grind on the LDA is pointlessQuoteBoth of these LDAs had the arm on the front? or the cold start lever side?
The one in my pic has the arm on the cold start half of the pump.
I've seen it on the other side,.. but it had no pin either, it would just get in the way.
LDA arm on the back of the pump, cold start lever side.
The pin is obvious when fitted, the casting is there on all pumps, some are drilled and fitted with a pin.
Later 1.6 TDs have a pin, never seen a GTD pump with a pin, later semi-electric AAZ pumps have a pin.
Quotepretty sure the arm on my LDA is on the pin side, not the cold start side. actually im about positive it is. cause it was opposite the fuel screw..
I've never seen one like that but then UK pumps are massively different to yours.
The picture I posted originally was a genuine 1.6 TD eco pump, the pictures in this post are GTD -
#24 by R.O.R-2.0 on 14 Mar, 2011 09:34
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are we talking about the fast idle lever? my pump has none.. and i guess the pump top looks about like the one that was posted up, just without the fast idle..
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#25 by fatmobile on 14 Mar, 2011 20:21
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Later 1.6 TDs have a pin, never seen a GTD pump with a pin, later semi-electric AAZ pumps have a pin.
Sooo later 1.6TDs have the pin,.. so the LDA arm must be one the other side.
The more i look at it the more it seems this LDA/lid would probably swap right on to an NA pump, without having to deal with the pin.
I messed with one of those pumps recently.
I always thought it would be good to have a TD pump with the cold start lever that bumps the RPMs too,..
but it's a little more complicated, really more complicated than it's worth.
I got it back together and it works
I am admittedly really confused.
Kris, the reason for all this is to put an LDA (turbo lid) on an NA pump.
It won't give you any more fuel,.. a 9mm pump will push what a 9mm pump can.
What it does is keep the fuel down when off boost,.. so you don't smoke so much off boost.
I'm not familiar with the 1.9 stuff and am not sure what your injection pump looks like,.. does it already have an LDA?
Seems like it's the pin in the LDA that needs changed on the 1.9 pump.
Not the limiting pin in the pump.