Motor has a loud tick

[Palmer]

Was not the injectors...

Any more ideas?

[GEE-BEE]

Mine was loud until I installed a new head with new valves...

Much quieter now

GB

[theman53]

You never said if you checked the IP timing. That can be loud.

[Palmer]

I have checked, and adjusted the IP timing. No change. The injectors did make a slight difference though. The stethoscope seems to indicate that its louder near cylinder #1, So maybe its a broken valve spring? Another theory was a broken spring in the IP as well..

I will keep updating as I go.

Also, as far as I know the head has never warped or been machined. The ARP bolts were just installed to keep the top end on when the boost goes over 20lbs.

[theman53]

Just to be sure not the cam/crank/IP timing but the actual dial indicator in the IP?.? I think aaz was .85mm, I could be off on that. Why did the mains need the ARP for boost? And, what where the clearances on the mains when you replaced the bearings? I guess I am wondering what is going on with the mains. When I first read the post I was thinking ARP studs only in the head. Then with the addition of the oil pump gets me to thinking there were bottom end problems. Did you do the con rod bearings? Usually they are worse than the mains. Easier to do in car as well

[Palmer]

I did not put a dial indicator in the IP, just loosened the 13mm bolts and retarded it a bit. The PR had it advanced almost as far as it would go.

A little history on the car. The original TDI was lifted to be put in a corrado. This now has a 1.9 TD, not exactly sure what one. The PO put a turbo from a 1.6L on it (uncontrolled. Will peg the boost gauge at 35 lbs), Cone filter, and a 2.5 inch turbo back exhaust. He put the APR head bolts in to keep the head from lifting off. A few locals here had that problem with uncontrolled turbos. After 20lbs the head would lift off a bit. One guy even had his coolant blowing out of the reservoir until he put apr head bolts in.

I had if for a few months before this tick started. It was hard to tell where it was coming from, everyone just assumed it was lifters, so I replaced them. They didn't fix it, so I replaced the main bolts, and con rod bolts at the same time, and decided to put apr bolts in there because another guy with the same block and same mods had a bottom end fail on him.. I put them in to be safe and to try to keep the bearings from being beaten out of it. I didn't check the clearances, but I also had someone else do it for me... The shaft on the oil pump was all beaten to s**t, and so were the guts of the vacuum pump, so they were replaced at the same time as the bearings.

Still ticked.

Just had new injectors put in sunday, no change.

[catlin_cava]

When you pull the cold start knob out does the tick go down a bit?

[Palmer]

cold start nob doesn't do anything. I should look into that someday, haha.

[catlin_cava]

cold start nob doesn't do anything. I should look into that someday, haha.

haha, yea lol, Can you post up a video of your car running? it would help

[Palmer]

Yea, I'll get on it this weekend maybe.

[rabbitman]

Turn the engine over with a wrench and see if you can feel the valves touching the pistons, it would feel like hard spots.

Did you ever try loosening the injectors one at a time at idle? That might tell you which cylinder it is.

Since you've changed so much stuff I'd have to guess wrist pin bushing.......

[Palmer]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR3w0uAGmmY

[R.O.R-2.0]

Mine was loud until I installed a new head with new valves...

Much quieter now

GB

lifters tend to make LOTS of noise when the head is broken off the bucket..

LOL 

[Vincent Waldon]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR3w0uAGmmY

It looks like you might have the anti-advance solenoid activated (the solenoid at the front of the pump)... if so, does the clacking sound diminish if you disconnect the power temporarily?