Thezorn's AAZ rebuild.

[Thezorn]

That's weird...
My bung is below the oil level as well, but I haven't had any problems with it backing up the line. What size return line are you running and does it run over the CV or under it? If it's running over the CV with a 90deg fitting, you might be getting backed up at that fitting

Yes it is over the CV. Thats sorta what I was thinking. Is yours under the CV? Wanna post a pic? It seems like there should be more then enough room for the there..

[RadoTD]

Yes, mine is under. 1/2" with a JIC Male bung welded into the pan
I won't be able to get you a pic for a while though. It's got tons of clearance, although my car is fairly low, not sure what it would look like when your K frame is more than 2" from the ground

[Thezorn]

Yes, mine is under. 1/2" with a JIC Male bung welded into the pan
I won't be able to get you a pic for a while though. It's got tons of clearance, although my car is fairly low, not sure what it would look like when your K frame is more than 2" from the ground

Alright thats what I shall do, thanks. My car is pretty low too so if yours works it shouldn't be a problem.

[Thezorn]

Yes, mine is under. 1/2" with a JIC Male bung welded into the pan
I won't be able to get you a pic for a while though. It's got tons of clearance, although my car is fairly low, not sure what it would look like when your K frame is more than 2" from the ground

Done. The turbo is still leaking a bit of oil (less then before) out of the exhuast side. So now the only two things it could be is...either the turbo itself is a dud, which is more then likley, or since I have the main body twisted a bit it is causing the oil to not drain properly.

Could have the main body of the turbo clocked so the feed isnt right at the peak and the drain is directly below it cuase it too leak like this? Mine is probabley off by about 20 degrees.
Input it greatly appreciated, This is pretty much the last speed bump till shes on the road 

[truckinwagen]

I think the most the turbo feed/drain can be angled is 15*.

[Thezorn]

I think the most the turbo feed/drain can be angled is 15*.

Yea I think thats part of my problem.
Now that I think about it, I remember there being oil in the exhaust side of the turbo when I got it but thought nothing of it then. Maybe its just the turbo...
Anyways im done fighting with this turbo, Im gunna pick up another K24 that I know is good from a local buddy here and see it that fixes my problems.

[Thezorn]

Well It looks like the turbo was the problem all along. After fighting with it I was able to get the old one off the car without pulling the engine out, then out the new one on. Hopefully im not speeking to soon though

If I can get the exhaust done today Ill try and get a video of it running and maybe pull it out of the shelter its in.

One more thing that I need to figure out is the tach in my new cluster. I have a wire run from my "W" terminal right to the number 10 (green) wire in the back of the cluster harness, but It doesnt want to move the tach.
So I guess I need to trouble shoot this, im gunna go pick up a frequence reading multimeter today and test the alternator. If the alternator is good then I guess its the cluster that is done. Has anyone ever tried to fix one of the clusters? Is there a write up on it to follow?
anymore help on this is deffinatley appreciated!

[Thezorn]

Well It looks like the turbo was the problem all along. After fighting with it I was able to get the old one off the car without pulling the engine out, then out the new one on. Hopefully im not speeking to soon though

If I can get the exhaust done today Ill try and get a video of it running and maybe pull it out of the shelter its in.

One more thing that I need to figure out is the tach in my new cluster. I have a wire run from my "W" terminal right to the number 10 (green) wire in the back of the cluster harness, but It doesnt want to move the tach.
So I guess I need to trouble shoot this, im gunna go pick up a frequence reading multimeter today and test the alternator. If the alternator is good then I guess its the cluster that is done. Has anyone ever tried to fix one of the clusters? Is there a write up on it to follow?
anymore help on this is deffinatley appreciated!

Okay, so my alternator is putting out the frequncy from the "W" terminal as it should. Not sure If there is an actuall amount it should be reading but at idle it was about 400 hz and rose with the RMPs like I think it should..? Sooo I guess this means my cluster is to blame for the tach not working?

On another note..the alternator doesnt seem to be putting out any power now. If im reading my bentley correctly it should be putting out the 13 to 14v (or what ever it is) from the "B+" terminal. When I test the battery when the car is running I get 10V right now (dead battery). Even when I test right off of the B+ terminal I get the same reading of the battery voltage, meaning it isnt putting out any power, right?
From what I can see there isnt any reason for the alternator to not be working, besides of course if its dead.
Is there any wires I could have forgotten to connect that would interupt the charging circut?

[the caveman]

I thought blue was color of the "W" wire.

[Powered by Spearco]

Blue is the cluster wire. Red/Black is the tack lead wire.

[Thezorn]

Blue is the cluster wire. Red/Black is the tack lead wire.

The wire coming off the W terminal is black/red. As for the cluster harness I have tried the blue, which looks like it could be the right one in the bentley wiring diagrams, and also the green, which is in the #10 slot in the cluster harness.  neither have worked. once I figure out why my alternator isnt charging Ill try and troubleshoot this a bit more.

[Powered by Spearco]

Blue wire from the cluster goes to the Alt. Its the 12V signal to start the charging. Yes the Tach wire is Blk/Rd.

[Powered by Spearco]

When the car is started, is the Batt. light still on or does it go out?

[Thezorn]

When the car is started, is the Batt. light still on or does it go out?

It stays on. I did mess around with the wire a bit though. If its not connected could that be the reason the alternator isnt charging? Sorta like the older GM's that need to have the little bit of resistance from the light in the dash for the alt to work?

[Thezorn]

When the car is started, is the Batt. light still on or does it go out?

Played with the wiring and made sure everything was good. still no luck. When the key is on the bettery light is on, when I turn the engien on the battery light stays on and when I rev the engine the light still stays on. Check the B+ terminal and no voltage coming out of it, only reads the battery power. Check the battery voltage and its at 11-11.5V.
Could a low battery be the problem here? The battery Im using in pretty low ATM. I just charged it and it read 12.9V, but as soon as I turned it over it drops to around 11-11.5V. Does the exciter wire need a good 12V feed to start the charging? if so could my battery be the problem?
What is the best way to troubleshoot this problem?