Idle a bit high after Giles pump install

[rumbling_caddy]

I successfully install and timed a Giles pump to my caddy.  It runs great and pull strong. My clutch is starts to slip after only one day    A mild black smoke haze only when at WOT.   

Idle is a bit high even though the idle stop screw is backed out as far as it goes while remaining in contact with the throttle lever. Should I just leave it alone?

[rodpaslow]

have you got a tach? - mine in a newly built 1.6 with the Giles unit ides at 1100 rpm.  I noticed too that idle doesn't seem adjustable.  Not a problem for me as I like it idling a bit higher than stock.

[R.O.R-2.0]

i dont have a giles pump (i dont think) and it did a similar thing. either it idled high, at like 1100, or way way low, at like 5-600.. i could fire it up, let it sit, idling at 5-600 for like 5 minutes, then out of nowhere, by its self, the engine revs up to 1100 and stays there. the only way to bring it back down to that real low idle is to drag the clutch.. and thats only if its still halfways cold. if its completely up to op. temp, then it will just idle at the higher speed.

[blackdogvan]

I'd say you have to adjust the lever, read the FAQ on modded pumps relating to max fuel screw adjustments as I'm sure Giles screwed in yours some during his tweakage.

[rabbitman]

i dont have a giles pump (i dont think) and it did a similar thing. either it idled high, at like 1100, or way way low, at like 5-600.. i could fire it up, let it sit, idling at 5-600 for like 5 minutes, then out of nowhere, by its self, the engine revs up to 1100 and stays there. the only way to bring it back down to that real low idle is to drag the clutch.. and thats only if its still halfways cold. if its completely up to op. temp, then it will just idle at the higher speed.

Mine does that too but not nearly that drastic, I get a low if about 750-830 rpm and a high of about 1100. It's pretty annoying that it won't just idle where I set it.

[theman53]

I have a Giles pump and have been driving it for almost 2,000 miles. I am not really all that impressed with the way he told me to handle my problems. I have noticed a high idle, but figured I would worry about that when I get the EGT's sorted out. I would say call him if you are in need of attention. My problem is it costs about a dollar a minute and I just email. I really need to speak with him if I find no leaks in the turbo this weekend.
What are your EGT's running? I could probably peg the 2,000F mark on my gauge if I didn't let off and I have ZERO black smoke.

[rumbling_caddy]

  Wow your EGT is off the chart.  Aren't you supposed to keep that under 1300 F?  I can't push my caddy hard with a slipping clutch.  So far (before the clutch problem) the max I've seen is 1000F and boost spike to 18 psi w/ no intercooler.  I don't think I'll  worry too much about this slight high idle issue for now.  I bought a Dakota Digital tach converter box, but I don't have a W terminal on my current alternator so I can't hook that up yet.

[theman53]

I do let off at 1,200F but I don't see the EGT stopping on its own. I have no tach either but I know it sounds like it is idling higher than normal.

[burn_your_money]

I think you need to read this thread
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=7218.0

It sounds like you are trying to adjust the residual fuel screw, not the idle. It depends on what pump you have though (I can't tell from the picture)

[Powered by Spearco]

I think that if you've bought a pump from Giles and you don't know what your doing adjusting it. Then call Giles. I'm sure hes more than willing to tell you what nees to be adjusted.
As far as idle RPM, all his pumps are calibrated to an idle of around 800-1000. Now concidering that most of our pumps are old, have been fiddled with or engine mods and general condition. They might need idle adjusting.

[RabbitJockey]

id get a tach before u decide if ur idle is too high

[rumbling_caddy]

I think you need to read this thread
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=7218.0

It sounds like you are trying to adjust the residual fuel screw, not the idle. It depends on what pump you have though (I can't tell from the picture)

   Thanks for the tip.  I haven't touch the residual fuel screw at all.  Just the throttle lever physical stop.  This pump does have a see-saw mechanism in the back so I'll take a look at that after replacing the clutch.  I know that the idle speed is faster than when the NA pump was in there mainly from the way the engine sound.  Anyways it's not a big deal and I'm happy with the performance improvement.

[Wayland]

If your pump has the fast idle linkage on the back, which it sounds like it does from what you're saying, you need to adjust the idle at the fast idle seesaw thingy, NOT at the throttle lever stop. The throttle lever stop screw controlls residual volume, NOT idle.

[Vincent Waldon]

Seconded.

For the sake of clarity, the seesaw at the back is the idle adjustment: one side is normal idle and the other is the fast idle setting, if the additional linkage to the cold start lever and knob exists. It adjusts the idle directly via an internal spring connected to the govenor system.

The stop the actual throttle lever rests on is known as the residual fuel screw...indirectly related to idle.