Radiator types?

[Rabbit79]

straight lower outlet is more rare than the angled lower outlet.. try finding a hose for the straight outlet!

or maybe its the other way around.. but i swear its harder to get the straight connection radiators and hoses..

You may be right, I'm far from any kind of expert on radiators. I've been looking around online until my brain hurts and most of the ones I see have a straight lower connection, not all, but most. It could just be that I'm looking in the wrong places though.

[R.O.R-2.0]

i am wrong.. you were right.. the angled lower connection is the more rare..

if you get a rad with a straight connection, then all you need to do is get the right lower hose for the radiator. then it all fits..

[GEE-BEE]

All 675 are angled bottom

a/c are angled top

Here you go:http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=0gx1l445fmytmc45kijzu245&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1285657@SCIROCCO 16-VALVE&year=1988&cid=16@Cooling System&gid=2172@Radiator

I have two of each in stock,

hoses are like this for a/c and non a/c model
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=0gx1l445fmytmc45kijzu245&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1283352@JETTA GL&year=1991&cid=16@Cooling System&gid=10068@Radiator Hose

[GEE-BEE]

Correct hose lower, 675 mm radiator

19110251 P, jetta 1.6 td

Scirocco 533121051 A

I make both in silicone, The scirocco hose fit's better

[Rabbit79]

Sorry GB I did forget to mention that it's NON a/c.

[wil892]

Thanks, yeah i've noticed the temp is about where it usually was!! oh well, I did find out my waterpump was on its way out while doing it so I guess not everything is lost.
TBH the original rad was very good quality, my new one is from germany but its got cylindrical cores rather than the flat ones my old one had. I would have thought the flat ones would have greater surface area but the engine seems to keep the same temps.

[Rabbit79]

You know Libby now that you mention that I've kinda been on the fence about this radiator. In the 14 or so years that I've owned this car it always has warmed up when pulling a grade, never into the red but pretty close sometimes. In my first few years of owning it it did worry me some but later on I found out it was fairly common so I quit worrying as long as it didn't make it into the red. Since the engine is getting rebuilt the thoroughness in me says might as well have an all new cooling system as well since everything going into the engine is brand new, and that radiatior is 31 years old after all. On the other hand I don't think there's really anything wrong with it. It's always ran at a pretty steady temp other than when on a grade, and it never has leaked so the cheapskate in me is saying why not hang onto it. I think in the end though the best thing to do is get a new one. More peace of mind for me.

Oh and sorry wil892 for hijacking your thread.....I just figured why start another one when we were both doing essentially the same thing.

[Vincent Waldon]

The TDI temperature gauge is a *classic* example of what Andrew is talking about.

During normal operation my Scangauge shows the actual engine coolant temperature constantly varying between 70C and 90C.... going up with load, dropping drastically when idling on a cold winter day etc.  

The dash gauge, on the other hand... slowly climbs more or less linearly as the engine warms up to the exact middle of the scale (90) and then stays there permanently... regardless of the actual coolant temperature variations.  The gauge is computer controled, so this behaviour is programmed and deliberate.

At least it pretends to be an analog gauge... the oil pressure "gauge" on my Mazda pickup is connected to a standard on/off pressure switch... a couple of resistors inside the gauge convert "on" to "middle of the scale".  ;-)

[Rabbit79]

I have a Ford Ranger which I believe is nothing more than a Mazda pickup in disguise, and I've noticed the same thing about the oil pressure guage. About the only time it ever moves is when you turn the key off.