When replacing engine mounts on a 93 AAZ

[Thezorn]

I have a bunch of questions to ask before I do my engine mounts, just so im sure about a few things.

First, how much will I need to raise my engine/tranny to do this? and what is the best way to do it. Will I need to loosen or disconnect the shifter linkage or play with it at all when I lift the engine? It looks as though the Tranny mount (rear mount right in front of the driver) is in the subframe about 2 inches or so.

Second, are these engine/tranny mounts pressed in? from what I've read im guessing they arent.

Third, should the front of the car be off the ground? It will probabley be anyways but I am just wondering if there is any reason(s) it will need to be.

Forth is, am I missing anything important? or is there anything important I should make sure I do previous to starting doing this.

I will probaboley be doing this in the next few days so thanks for many advice,

Thanks,
           Will Zorn

[gldgti]

yes, raise the front of the car.

the front mount (to the front crossmember) is easy. support the weight of the engine with a jack or other similar and just undo the through bolts. you also need to unbolt the bracket from the engine/starter assy.

the gearbox mount is not too difficult. yes, you probably need to unclip some of the shifter linkages. undo the mounting bracket from the gearbox using the 3 M8 long bolts that go through the diff housing. then you simply unbolt the old mount from the subframe and lift it out. refit is reverse of removal. you also need to support the weight of the engine with a jack or other means.

the main engine mount on the rear of the block is a little trickier because of position. In my opinion the best way is to support the weight of the engine and undo the top bolt, then remove the engine mount bracket from the block. now you can unbolt the mount from the subframe and swap it, and reassemble as before.

there may be other ways to do it without removing the brackets, but in my experience trying to take these "shortcuts" just takes longer in the end, since it doesnt take much effort to remove the brackets.

[BAM]

yes, raise the front of the car.

the front mount (to the front crossmember) is easy. support the weight of the engine with a jack or other similar and just undo the through bolts. you also need to unbolt the bracket from the engine/starter assy.

the gearbox mount is not too difficult. yes, you probably need to unclip some of the shifter linkages. undo the mounting bracket from the gearbox using the 3 M8 long bolts that go through the diff housing. then you simply unbolt the old mount from the subframe and lift it out. refit is reverse of removal. you also need to support the weight of the engine with a jack or other means.

the main engine mount on the rear of the block is a little trickier because of position. In my opinion the best way is to support the weight of the engine and undo the top bolt, then remove the engine mount bracket from the block. now you can unbolt the mount from the subframe and swap it, and reassemble as before.

there may be other ways to do it without removing the brackets, but in my experience trying to take these "shortcuts" just takes longer in the end, since it doesnt take much effort to remove the brackets.

If all the fasteners are not seized this procedure will take a couple hours for all the mounts.  It looks quicker to not remove the brackets but it is NOT!!!  Do not try and do them all at the same time, make sure each mount is back in its home before starting the next one.  If you do not you will run out of beer before the procedure is complete

[Thezorn]

awsome, thanks guys. That is good to know.

[gldgti]

yes, raise the front of the car.

the front mount (to the front crossmember) is easy. support the weight of the engine with a jack or other similar and just undo the through bolts. you also need to unbolt the bracket from the engine/starter assy.

the gearbox mount is not too difficult. yes, you probably need to unclip some of the shifter linkages. undo the mounting bracket from the gearbox using the 3 M8 long bolts that go through the diff housing. then you simply unbolt the old mount from the subframe and lift it out. refit is reverse of removal. you also need to support the weight of the engine with a jack or other means.

the main engine mount on the rear of the block is a little trickier because of position. In my opinion the best way is to support the weight of the engine and undo the top bolt, then remove the engine mount bracket from the block. now you can unbolt the mount from the subframe and swap it, and reassemble as before.

there may be other ways to do it without removing the brackets, but in my experience trying to take these "shortcuts" just takes longer in the end, since it doesnt take much effort to remove the brackets.

If all the fasteners are not seized this procedure will take a couple hours for all the mounts.  It looks quicker to not remove the brackets but it is NOT!!!  Do not try and do them all at the same time, make sure each mount is back in its home before starting the next one.  If you do not you will run out of beer before the procedure is complete

the beauty of living in a country where it doesnt snow i guess :-)

[Thezorn]

yes, raise the front of the car.

the front mount (to the front crossmember) is easy. support the weight of the engine with a jack or other similar and just undo the through bolts. you also need to unbolt the bracket from the engine/starter assy.

the gearbox mount is not too difficult. yes, you probably need to unclip some of the shifter linkages. undo the mounting bracket from the gearbox using the 3 M8 long bolts that go through the diff housing. then you simply unbolt the old mount from the subframe and lift it out. refit is reverse of removal. you also need to support the weight of the engine with a jack or other means.

the main engine mount on the rear of the block is a little trickier because of position. In my opinion the best way is to support the weight of the engine and undo the top bolt, then remove the engine mount bracket from the block. now you can unbolt the mount from the subframe and swap it, and reassemble as before.

there may be other ways to do it without removing the brackets, but in my experience trying to take these "shortcuts" just takes longer in the end, since it doesnt take much effort to remove the brackets.

If all the fasteners are not seized this procedure will take a couple hours for all the mounts.  It looks quicker to not remove the brackets but it is NOT!!!  Do not try and do them all at the same time, make sure each mount is back in its home before starting the next one.  If you do not you will run out of beer before the procedure is complete

the beauty of living in a country where it doesnt snow i guess :-)

But the troubles of living in a country that has snow and rain for 8 months out of the year.