Klaus, the 84 Jetta TD, gets a rebuild

[wolfsburged]

Well got a lot more done this weekend.

Got the ARP rod bolts pressed in and was able to finish installing the pistons. We noticed a small mark on cylinder 4's bore, but decided that it was not deep enough to be an issue and continued on with installation. It looks deeper in the photo but is not deep enough to catch with a fingernail.



Started installing accessories. Water pump and AC bracket installed, along with IP/motor mount bracket. Got the timing sprocket and v-belt pulley installed. Intermediate shaft seal and pulley installed. Put the oil cooler flange and new oil cooler on, as well as installed the vacuum pump.



Ended up ordering a new oil pump just to be safe.

Measured piston protrusion and selected a one notch headgasket. More progress soon!

[wolfsburged]

Realized that I never posted pictures of the head after we got it back. Was very happy with the headwork. George was able to TIG the areas between valves, looks great.


Got some more good progress in. Got the intake and exhaust manifolds installed onto the head:


And got ready to install the turbo:


Ran into a small issue. Turbo flange wasn't sitting flat against the exhaust manifold. Found a high spot and was able to smooth it down. It was at a corner, looked like it got bumped in shipping or something and deformed slightly.



Drain too


ARP head studs installed. They are the new part number for VW Diesel/TDI


And finally got the head and headgasket (1 notch) installed. Torqued the studs to 30 ft-lbs, 44 ft-lbs, then 125 ft-lbs. Used tons and tons of the ARP assembly grease. Went well! And now it looks like a motor!!!





One random question: Is there supposed to be a gasket between the 90* intake neck bit on the intake manifold? It seems like there should have been, but I can't find one in my gasket kit.

[GEE-BEE]

REF : INTERCOOLER

Iam working with bellintercooler to make a intercooler that will bolt on the 1991 1.6TD radiator
675 mm long 16 v a/c type, angle top outlet

They have a new 675 mm radiatoor to use as a mock up

It will attach to the condenser tab's on the front of this radiator, you can attach your a/c condenser on top or behind the i.c.

I hope to have 8 x 26
1.5 thick with 2' outlets

You can use your mkI fan support or updrade toa MKIi fan support for a cleaner look and stronger attachment

You can get a cnc battery mount ( optima) to give more clearence for the intercooler tube

MkI fan or MkII fan can be used with 16 v wiring harness and new radiator fan/temp sensor

The 675 mm radiator has the temp sensor on the front versus the side for easier install
MKI fan 150  Watt ,Four blade
MKII fan 250 Watt, Five blade

Radiator hose upper 1.6 td jetta ( 1991 )
lower will be 16 v scirocco a/c type, angle drop for alternator ( aaz/tdi)

I have both installed in my MK1 caddy and silicone type( radiator ) are in production

Hope this help's, Iam doing the same but with a PD130 and i didnt want to cross tubing to the intercooler

P.S. dont forget to protect your egt wire with some 1/4 firesleeve
aircraftspruce.com

GB

[Smokey Eddy]

That 90* neck you speak of does not receive a gasket. Since you have a nice shiney new turbo the wastegate will presumably function properly. You should ask your friend to TIG a plate over that hole for it houses a BOV set to about 8psi and can be a real bother if it leaks. The waste gate is adjustable so you can set your boost to what you want.

[wolfsburged]

More progress!

Friday got the IP and a few more brackets mounted. Put on some coolant lines and the BOV.


Today got the timing belt installed, timing set, AC compressor and alternator mounted, oil supply line to turbo mounted, oil pressure sender, dipstick, coolant pipe etc all together.







Realized we are missing one stud from the turbo at the downpipe, and one is bent. Messed that stud up trying to get it out, will have to attack again later with more heat.

Major hit list of items left:

    * Install trans side main seal, oil pump, oil baffle, and pan
    * Fix turbo exhaust studs
    * Order new copper downpipe gasket and install downpipe
    * Pull steering column and replace bearing. Install new u-joint boot
    * Pull brake booster and reinstall missed bracket. Paint booster and MC.
    * Re-run wiring harness in bay.
    * Finish figuring out/making AC lines
    * Install EGT gauge
    * Trace coolant gauge wiring & fix
    * Reseal transmission, replace throwout bearing, etc
    * Install new clutch kit & mate transmission
    * Rebuild headlight buckets & reinstall
    * Tuck bumpers
    * Reinstall engine
    * Install coilovers

[GEE-BEE]

If you want a silicone seal for the 90 intake neck?

Send me your address

I will mail you one

GB

I have a set of 1991 jetta 1.6 TD a/c radiator hoses and a new 675 mm radiator,( angle top & bottom) that was used for tooling for 75.00

[Smokey Eddy]

You should, as GEE-BEE is offering, block the BOV. It does nothing but cause problems.

[wolfsburged]

Did a little reading in the FAQ, so let me see if I get this straight.

The BOV is set to open, stock, at a slightly higher pressure than the turbo's wastegate (~12 PSI). The wastegate will open to regulate boost at the stock settings of 9-10 PSI. So when I'm burying the throttle and the boost gauge is pegged at 9 PSI, that is the waste gate doing its thing.

So, in a stock sense, the BOV will not do anything unless the wastegate fails.

And, if I want to "up the boost" so to speak, I need to install a manual boost controller in the air line that goes to the wastegate, to fool it into seeing less boost, in order to let the turbo build more pressure. BUT, if I don't alter the spring or disable the BOV, I will never be able to get more than 12 PSI since the BOV will then be activating.

Gasoline cars need BOVs because they have throttle plates which we diesels don't. The only thing the BOV will buy me is a secondary safeguard against wastegate failure.

So despite the extra effort, still seems like the extra safety of the BOV would be worth it, just with additional spring changes should I desire more boost?

[rabbid79]

Did a little reading in the FAQ, so let me see if I get this straight.

The BOV is set to open, stock, at a slightly higher pressure than the turbo's wastegate (~12 PSI). The wastegate will open to regulate boost at the stock settings of 9-10 PSI. So when I'm burying the throttle and the boost gauge is pegged at 9 PSI, that is the waste gate doing its thing.

So, in a stock sense, the BOV will not do anything unless the wastegate fails.

And, if I want to "up the boost" so to speak, I need to install a manual boost controller in the air line that goes to the wastegate, to fool it into seeing less boost, in order to let the turbo build more pressure. BUT, if I don't alter the spring or disable the BOV, I will never be able to get more than 12 PSI since the BOV will then be activating.

Yes, everything you said is correct and well stated, right up to here...

Gasoline cars need BOVs because they have throttle plates which we diesels don't.

Gasoline engines generally don't have BOVs, they have pop-off valves because of the throttle plates.  There is a difference between the two, and unfortunately this is something that people often confuse with one another.  BOVs blow off the excess pressure based on pressure alone.  Pop-off valves blow of excess pressure based on pressure differential between either side of the throttle plates.  The valve "senses" when there is lower pressure in the intake manifold because the throttle plate has closed, and dumps the excess pressure in the other side of the intake tract.

So despite the extra effort, still seems like the extra safety of the BOV would be worth it, just with additional spring changes should I desire more boost?

I agree with this statement too.  Retaining your BOV and just setting it to a higher pressure sounds like a good idea.

[RabbitJockey]

i wonder if you could use the bov inlet as the main air inlet with a 2 inch v clamp, its not in a good location tho

[wolfsburged]

Opinions on this boost controller?

TurboLogic Performance Model TL-21 MBC Kit
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=30

Seems reasonably priced, and is a ball & spring model, which seems to be better.

Prefer something that will allow tweaking on the low end for now, since I'm still at 9 PSI. Some of these seem to have different spring rates, not sure if this one will work fine at once spring setting...

[theman53]

http://www.boostvalve.com/pricelist.html

I got one of his here 1/4" single version. Came with 2 springs one softer for lower boost and one stiffer for more. For the money I don't see how it could be improved upon even for more $$$.

[vanbcguy]

So despite the extra effort, still seems like the extra safety of the BOV would be worth it, just with additional spring changes should I desire more boost?

I agree with this statement too.  Retaining your BOV and just setting it to a higher pressure sounds like a good idea.
[/quote

There is ONE thing about the BOV that isn't mentioned here though... When the BOV opens there is no longer any restriction on the turbo.  Since the wastegate would be closed/blocked/whatever the turbo is going to try and spin itself to infinity.  Not a good thing.  Having 14 PSI boost doesn't kill these turbos or motors, but overspeeding the turbo substantially would be a good way for your engine to inhale compressor blades.

[wolfsburged]

A bit more progress this weekend.

Oil pump, baffle, and pan are installed. Rear main seal installed.



Tore into the transmission a bit. Replaced both axle flange seals. Pulled the end cap off and replaced the clutch push rod, finger, throwout bearing, green cap, and clutch release rod shaft seal. Waiting on some Redline MT-90 to refill.

[wolfsburged]

Had a productive day working on the project.

My dad stopped by to help out and we got the last two seals on the transmission replaced, input selector shaft and the main input shaft seal. Filled it up with some MT-90 GL4 oil and promptly got a puddle streaming out of the main input shaft seal.

Turns out after some more research there are two variants, a 22mm inner diameter, and a 24mm inner diameter. We have a 22mm input shaft, and a 24mm seal.

Luckily a quick call to Chad, our resident local OCD VW friend netted the correct seal.

Got the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel installed.



And the transmission mated to the engine.



An earlier project was to powder coat and clean up the headlight buckets:



We pulled the brake booster to replace a missing bracket behind it, and painted it while out. Also reinstalled the fuel filter heatshield and bracket, as well as the receiver/dryer bracket & AC lines.


Then we decided to tuck the front bumpers a bit, and reinstalled the horns.


Wear eye protection! The struts are oil and gas charged!



Our friend Pinky tack welded the struts in place after we settled them in.

I was going to replace the steering column bearing but received the wrong part. The right one is on order and hopefully will get to that next week. Also ordered a new passenger side axle as I noticed there were some tears in the boots.

Got a Mk2 style fan, I need to find some new wiring bits to make it work as the plug is slightly different. Also it did not come with a resistor. I'm not sure if the resistor from my Mk1 fan is the same?