Klaus, the 84 Jetta TD, gets a rebuild

[R.O.R-2.0]

most likely not a tension issue. in the my thread you linked, andrew says that an over tensioned belt and worn bushing will cause the belt to track towards the pump.

I mean you can give it a quick check, but I think its the brackets that's your problem.

worn bushings make it track off the IP sprocket if its bad enough..

too tight of a belt can make it walk either way.

mis-aligned pump can also make the belt track goofy.

[wolfsburged]

I will start with the easy stuff like belt tension and then work up to the PITA bracket adjusting.

Got an alignment the other day and inspected. Nice to have the car actually track straight!

Still gotta deal with this darn alternator belt tension. I tighten up as best I can and I still am getting some belt noise and slippage. I can see the tach dip, especially around 2000 RPM, as the belt slips a bit. Louder belt whine in the mornings and cold... Locktite and locking washers on everything this time too...

[wolfsburged]

Took the long weekend to work on some nagging issues. Not anything too glamorous, but makes me feel better.

Stripped down the accessories and timing belt to deal with whatever was leaking under the lower timing cover. Found this:


Pulled the intermediate shaft cover plate off and saw that I had missed installing the o-ring between it and the block. Put the o-ring on and reinstalled.

Also found a small leak from the turbo drain at the turbo. Got a bit of movement tightening one of the drain bolts, so hopefully fixed that too.

Took this opportunity to remove the IP and the AC/Alt bracket. Replaced the AC/Alt bracket with a newly powdercoated, used piece. This new bracket has the upper alt pivot bushings that aren't rounded out.

Played around with the position of the IP brackets for almost all of Saturday. Moved some stuff, retimed, checked the belt tracking by bumping the starter. Each time tracking out to the edge. Used Baron VonZeppelin's factory tension tool, getting a nice 12-13 reading on each time. Whew what a freaking PITA, time consuming chore. Anyway at the end of it I got it just ever so marginally better than before. At this point it is still tracking to the outer edge, but it is staying inside of the pulley edge, whereas before it was hanging off just a bit. Can't get any more adjustment out of the brackets. I think the IP bracket is slightly tweaked. I had a new motor mount pressed in a few years ago, at the very beginning of owning the car. Timing belt has always tracked out. Probably happened back then. Either way, it is how it is, I'm going to monitor it a bit more, and then put the upper timing cover back on and forget about it.

Also took the opportunity to inspect the lower nipple on the coolant reservoir. Two different hoses, and a dozen of attempts to tighten the hose clamp kept yielding a slow weep from this location. Found a bit of plastic flashing/burrs (cheap new parts...). Cleaned it up and put the hose back on.

I did do one "fun" project this weekend. Had my EGT gauge hanging out in the center cubby and needed a home. I never use the ash tray so I figured I'd relocate it there. Made a little gauge bezel and moved the boost and EGT gauges to where the ashtray was, and installed the voltmeter I had in the lower console.



Drove the car today and parked it in a fresh spot. Six hours later and the ground underneath is free of spots!! So a small victory.

Going to be tending to the AC soon. Of course, that means that my "good" used blower fan has started making horrible death sounds, so I'm trying to locate a new one to install. Also need a new vacuum actuator for the fresh air flap. Was able to confirm vacuum to this point, but no actuator movement...

[wolfsburged]

Found a new VDO AC blower fan on Ebay, showed up on my door the other day. Now have to see about replacing the fan via the rain tray opening. Will be a minor PITA. Also sourced a new vacuum actuator for the fresh air flap.

Just ordered a set of H1 and H4 lamps from Autopal on ebay along with a conversion pigtail. Going to swap these in and relay them for better night driving.

Tried adjusting motor mounts the other day, however I just made things worse. Before had some excessive vibration when slamming on brakes or reversing, especially uphill. Now I don't have that issue but have more vibration at idle and hit odd resonances at certain RPMs. I have the rear mount centered, and both side mounts centered left/right, however now it seems the side mounts are both sitting too far forward of center. Will have to try again.

Been driving the Jetta everyday. So far city mileage is 41-43 MPG.

This weekend took a nice highway cruise in the Jetta. 268.3 miles / 5.243 gallons = 51.17 MPG! New lifetime best! 65-70 most of the way too, not hypermiling.

We have reservations for the Southern Worthersee show in Helen, GA May 20-22. Hope to see some other diesels there!

[wolfsburged]

Also one new good photo from the weekend. Need to take some of the spray touchup paint and hit some of the pock marks still, but looking good with the new fender.

[vanbcguy]

Lookin' good!!

[vdubspeed]

Trade a left nut for that jetta? It's worked twice

[R.O.R-2.0]

Also one new good photo from the weekend. Need to take some of the spray touchup paint and hit some of the pock marks still, but looking good with the new fender.

*droooooooooooolllllllssssss*

damn!!!

that thing looks show room fresh. too bad it didnt smell like a brand new VW..

[Baron VonZeppelin]

51mpg with a TD is GREAT !
Especially with todays fuel prices.

Looks really good

Anyone notice the factory locking Jetta Diesel fuel cap on that car ?
oooohhhhhh
aaahhhhhhh

My youngest brother recently wised up and joined VWDzl ranks.
04 or 06 TDi Jet with just over 100k miles.
His OBC mpg numbers mirror your numbers.
Rock On wif dat Mk1 TD

[wolfsburged]

Repainted most of the black primered bits after sanding, including all of the lower lip. Looks a lot better. Still need to pull the rear bumper for a tuck and to hit a small patch of rust back there.

The Autopal H1/H4 lights and conversion pigtail showed up yesterday. Going to get some automotive relays and rig them up next week.

Got my blower fan situation figured out, didn't end up needing a fan.

Car went to RJ's Custom Piping this week, got a 2.5" downpipe and full exhaust, with resonator and Borla muffler. Sounds great. Lower pitch than before, but no louder than stock; can really hear the turbo spool up now, and it spools faster. EGTs are down considerably. This really woke the car up!

Got a new starter installed, and gave the rusty master cylinder a coat of silver POR15.

Before SOWO need to install the new lights and clean up a little more wiring. Also may put on the GLI rear license plate tub. And give it a good wash!

[8v-of-fury]

We did the Autopal E-code H4 conversion on my bro's 84 (converted) Turbo Diesel. What bulbs did you end up getting with them? I went with the 90/100w Ultra Blue, and ZOMG. Low beams are intense, but high beams are DAMN NEAR SUNLIGHT in front of you.

Also did you choose Euro? or DOT?

[jack's lack]

It was cool meeting you guys at SoWo. Too bad I never got to see the Jetta. In fact I didn't notice any MKI turbo diesels, just a bunch of NA guys. We could have been the Only TD MKI's. Of course your car is WAAAY cleaner than mine. I just wanted to reiterate that if you organize a VW diesel club for the Southeast like you mentioned, I'd be all about it. Awesome work btw. Now turn up the boost.

[jiggs]

Just love this build

[wolfsburged]

Car made it down to SOWO and attended the MK1 GTG:


Alternator failed while in Georgia. Luckily was able to drive ~9 hours (due to massive I85 backup/detour) back home without the alternator working (and battery light on, tach dead).

Alternator is now replaced and charging.

Installed the H1/H4 lights and Eurowires relay harness today. Massive improvement in light output!



High beam:


Low beam:


Installed:


The Autopal lights are a complete steal, I think it was less than $80 total for the 4 lights, bulbs, and shipping. I went with these from their Ebay store:
165mm H4656 H4666 H4 EURO HEADLIGHTS WITH CITY LIGHTS
165mm H4651 H1 HIGH BEAM EURO CONVERSION HEADLIGHTS

I went with the standard 55W H4 and 100W H1 bulbs, very happy with the performance. Build quality is very good as well. I had Hella glass E-Codes on my B4 Passat and while the design is different, I can't find any fault in the construction of these (time will tell of course).

Also Jeff at Eurowires makes some really nice relay harnesses. Can't recommend enough.

Also got a few more interesting fuel economy figures from the SOWO trip. Was caravaning down with some high HP 1.8T guys which meant we were averaging 80-90 MPH on the way down, including one massive 90+ stint to make up a few miles worth of distance lost. That dropped that section's mileage to 43 MPG. Driving 75MPH closer to 46 MPG. Definitely happiest at 65 and below to get those 50+ MPGs.

Got a few more AC fittings in the mail. Hopefully will make up the lines soon. Not driving it too much as its been too damn hot with all these upper 90s temps.

[wolfsburged]

Working on the next project: Air conditioning.

Made up two of the three hoses I need yesterday. Ran into a small snag and need some new parts to finish the last line.

Last Christmas got my dad an AC hose crimping tool. Got to use it on my project to make custom AC lines up.

I've fitted a universal parallel flow condenser in place of the stock tube and fin condenser.

New high pressure line from compressor to condenser top:


Compressor side has 90* #8 female o-ring fitting w/ R134a High Pressure service port to #8 bead lock fitting, #8 hose to #8 x #8 splice with 1/4" R12 service port and binary pressure switch. The binary pressure switch will be wired in series after the current water temp cutout switch and before the compressor, as the original system had no pressure switches. The high pressure cutout is required to "legally" convert to R134a, and the low pressure switch will be an extra compressor safeguard.


Condenser end is simply #8 beadlock 90* fitting to #8 female o-ring.


Since installing the new condenser, the factory hard line from the bottom of condenser to the receiver/dryer was replaced with custom hose, two #6 90* fittings and #6 hose:


Test fit in place with new condenser:


The snag I hit with the low pressure suction line from evaporator to compressor is that the original fitting at the compressor goes from a #10 female o-ring fitting to #12 hose. I bought the hose and a #12x#12 90* female o-ring to beadlock fitting w/ R134 low pressure service port. What I am going to have to do is reorder a #10x#12 90* fitting and a #12x#12 splice with R134 low pressure service port instead.

Then once the last line is done I will vacuum the system to check for leaks and then charge with R134 and new PAG100 oil.

Found this helpful technical bulletin from VW concerning appropriate refrigerant and oil capacities for R134a:
http://knightcreations.com/ghetto/images/jetta/vw_AC_retrofit_info.pdf

Also realized we never posted good photos of the exhaust system:
2.5" downpipe:


Flex section:


Resonator:


Jump over rear beam: