Question about a Giles pump upgrade

[ventureforth]

Any point to adding an oil cooler?  Or is that, once again, overkill for a 1.6NA?

[rabbitman]

Any point to adding an oil cooler?  Or is that, once again, overkill for a 1.6NA?

I don't know what temps you get where you live but it sure can't hurt anything.

Here's a good one, http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25435.0

[ventureforth]

That's exactly the one I was looking at.  That site has been a great resource.

Also need to upgrade alternator to one with "w" terminal if I end up running a tach.  Performance-cafe has them in 75amp and 90amp flavors.  With no a/c, should I just stick to 75amp?

[Rabbit on Roids]

i would go with the 90 unless its significantly more coin. the 90 amp is the one that came in a/c equipped cars anyway..

[burn_your_money]

I don't know what temps you get where you live but it sure can't hurt anything.

If it's not thermostatically controlled then I would beg to differ. It will increase engine warm up times which will increase engine wear if it is not controlled.

[Rabbit on Roids]

i DO NOT run an oil cooler.. and it still takes FOR DAYS to warm my diesel up..

[ventureforth]

So oil cooler is overkill for NA, too.  Understood.  Still navigating these performance mods as most of the info is for hyper-tuning a td or franken-build and not all of it pertains to the NA.  But some of it does, for sure, such as opening up the exhaust.

Here's a question: what would be considered overspending on said 2.25" exhaust system?  In other words, what should I be willing to pay to have the shop do the work?  Never done this sort of custom work.  I'm willing to pay what's fair, even if it's not cheap.  Fair is fair.  Just don't want to get swindled.

[veector]

It all depends on what you want?  Full custom exhaust and downpipe?  I would go 2.5" but thats just me.  To give you a ballpark figure I got a downpipe with flex and side exit turndown, all 3" built and installed for 300.  It seems thats a steal so anywhere between 300 and 450 is reasonable.  Prob more for stainless

[Rabbit on Roids]

So oil cooler is overkill for NA, too.  Understood.  Still navigating these performance mods as most of the info is for hyper-tuning a td or franken-build and not all of it pertains to the NA.  But some of it does, for sure, such as opening up the exhaust.

Here's a question: what would be considered overspending on said 2.25" exhaust system?  In other words, what should I be willing to pay to have the shop do the work?  Never done this sort of custom work.  I'm willing to pay what's fair, even if it's not cheap.  Fair is fair.  Just don't want to get swindled.

you build a n/a the exact same way, you just take boost out of the equation. think nitrous.. 

[burn_your_money]

Around here $300 installed is usually considered a good price. You may want to consider buying mandrel bends and bringing them to the shop to have them install instead of the crappy crimp bends they will likely offer.  

I would say an oil cooler is a good idea if you live in a mountainous area or plan to make long drives (5+ hours) or if you travel in the desert. Even swapping in a stock heat exchanger (commonly called an oil cooler) would be good. However dollar for dollar a true oil cooler might be cheaper. The stock heat exchanger does offer the benefit of faster warm up times.

[ventureforth]

$300 - $500 sounds pretty reasonable, actually.

So, update on the manifold situation.  I have a 4:2:1 now...and it was free.  But it came off a pretty rusty rabbit.  At any rate, from what has been said so far, there really is no point to using it since modding the toilet bowl to accept a 2.25" or 2.5" downpipe is just as good (or better) than doing the 4:2:1.  Correct?

rabbitman -- why do you like the toilet bowl better?  Can you explain?

I also found a 2" exhaust with a bosal tip off an '84 16V GTI that I can get for real cheap.  Would that hook right up to the 8V 4:2:1 manifold and, if so, would the 2" give a decent power boost or is it really really worth it to go up to the 2.25" for some extra coin?

Thanks again.

[burn_your_money]

I would just use what is cheap. The difference between 2 and 2.25 is not going to be noticeable IMO

As long as the exhaust is not built for use with a cat it may bolt up. You might need to find the proper flange though

[ventureforth]

I think it is built for a cat.  Oh, well.

This should probably go in the non-engine section, but since this thread is on a roll and you've all been so helpful, I thought I'd just continue on with it.

Thinking about stress bars to improve handling.  On the suspension/wheel side, I've already installed "high-performance" Sachs/Boge struts/springs from partsplaceinc.  BIG improvement, though the old ones were pretty much toast.  Went up from the stock 13" to 185/60R14.  Right now it has some Potenzas, but they are nearing the end of their useful life so I'll get some nice tires on there soon enough.  Anyway, have any of you fooled around with stress bars front or rear or both?  Performance-cafe has some for the MK1

2pt. Lower
http://www.performance-cafe.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_195&products_id=450
4pt. Lower
http://www.performance-cafe.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_195&products_id=451
Rear
http://www.performance-cafe.com/product_info.php?cPath=8_195&products_id=452

I do haul a lot of gear, so am concerned that the rear bar will limit the cargo capacity of my Rabbit.  But they say over 90% of the cargo space is retained, so maybe not.  As for front, since top speed is not going to be too high on this bunny and I'm not gonna race it, I'm assuming 2pt. is fine and 4pt. is overkill.  Is it all overkill, though?  Like I said, it's not for racing, but to improve the grin factor when taking on windy roads up North and so on.

Thoughts?

[rabbitman]

$300 - $500 sounds pretty reasonable, actually.

So, update on the manifold situation.  I have a 4:2:1 now...and it was free.  But it came off a pretty rusty rabbit.  At any rate, from what has been said so far, there really is no point to using it since modding the toilet bowl to accept a 2.25" or 2.5" downpipe is just as good (or better) than doing the 4:2:1.  Correct?

rabbitman -- why do you like the toilet bowl better?  Can you explain?

I also found a 2" exhaust with a bosal tip off an '84 16V GTI that I can get for real cheap.  Would that hook right up to the 8V 4:2:1 manifold and, if so, would the 2" give a decent power boost or is it really really worth it to go up to the 2.25" for some extra coin?

Thanks again.

16V's have a different exhaust mani so it might take some modding to make it hook up.

The advantages of the toilet are, no need for a flex pipe and less bolts to rust. If you use a exhaust clamp to open those annoying C springs it's pretty easy to unhook it.

I don't know if it flows as good or better but it might not be as "tuned" as the 4-2-1.

Also the 4-2-1 has a lot more length/weight hanging off the block and so more chance of crackage while the toilet is rather short. With that said I don't know of anyone who's had one crack .

If you can get the cheap 2" setup and it hooks to the 4-2-1 then I'd go that route.

I don't know what temps you get where you live but it sure can't hurt anything.

If it's not thermostatically controlled then I would beg to differ. It will increase engine warm up times which will increase engine wear if it is not controlled.

Thanks, I forgot to clarify

[ventureforth]

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/1858165191.html

If I have the 4-2-1 style exhaust manifold, what will I need to do to be able to use the above 2" exhaust off an '84 gasser?  And would you recommend the above?

Thanks again!