Turbo and low oil pressure question

[Greenthings]

I cheaply purchased another Caddy last month. It has the '84 (mech) Jetta Turbo engine conversion and a 5-speed.  The engine was supposedly re-built 8 years ago...has a newish looking (Top-line) Head on it. Re-built pump.
Seems to run smoothly but is going through oil (1 quart-100 miles)... with blow-by ( cap dances, smokey and alot of oil splatters,  when cap is loose). Also the Turbo (Air Research) leaks from the wastegate thingy from its bottom. Oil pressure is about 10 hot...22-25 running  35- 65 mph. Oil does'nt go above 30 psi when going through the gears briskly. Brakes are ah bit stiff. Have changed out vane type vac twice. Autometer Turbo Boost gauge shows 10 psi vacuum at idle and no more than 5 psi max at full boost. Blows big black puffs when going into boost.
Questions?
1. What affect would a blown Turbo seal have on  (spool psi, oil pressure readings, consumption, smoke and brake vacuum?) What boost psi should the Air Research (garret) be running?
2. What compression readings would suggest bad rings?
3. (As for the Blow-by and oil consumption... If the compression readings are within range does it definetly mean bad valve seals?   I do understand the intermediate bearing issue. I'm a definete newbie to the turbo-ing.
I bought this truck mainly for the Gti parts, Trans and turbo stuff. Hoping to get a year or so out of it before transplanting a better engine. Adding a oil catch can too. Any advice would be great














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[Baron VonZeppelin]

Sell it cheap and quick

I'll bite on it .....


Quart every 500 miles is normally considered highest toleration.
Qt. within 100 miles is gonna cost almost as much as the fuel.

Is there a splatter shield under valve cover/on top of cam ?
If you can see a cam lobe when removing oil cap - it doesnt have one. Get one they help reduce PCV oil consumption.
And double the seal on the oil cap, or new cap.
Check breather mesh area underside valve cover, underneath where hockey puck plugs in.

300 psi is getting pretty bad, but some drive them down to 250.
400 or better is nice. 500 is fresh/new.

If you have verified that ALL the brake hydraulics actually operate - you probably have a bad/dying brake booster, or very glazed/hardened aged pads-shoes.

Have you visually verified the block code as being a TD code ?
Most times they are NA blocks that have been Turbo'ed - and worn out quickly.

I'm just starting my way into TD also, can't give those other answers yet.

[Greenthings]

What kind of PSI oil pressure losses and oil consumption could occur with blown turbo seals? Anybody have a guess?

[Greenthings]

Boost gauge has shown 10 psi vac at idle with factory airbox and dirty filter..a clean standard filter... also a new cone filter.....and filterless. Could the intake manifold be coked up enough to cause that kind of restriction? Would a bad turbo cause that kind of oil consumption. I don't hear spool when I rev the pump by hand, yet I can get some boost 2 or 3 psi avg. after it compensates for the 10 psi vaccuum when driven hard. I have only had time to pull the intake hoses to reach the turbo's intake side. No restrictions to there. The shaft seems smooth with no play, side to side, up and down, or in and out. There does seem to be alot of oil in the turbo. Oil dripping out the bottom of wastegate can/pod also. Stuck-shut wastegate maybe? There is a considerable amount of valve cap blow by( but a few quarts of oil every tank full seems nutty)  I just can't believe the amount of oil this thing is sucking up.

[Greenthings]

Would a busted diaphram in the brake booster cause that kind of vacuum gauge reading?