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#390
by
8v-of-fury
on 09 Oct, 2012 18:31
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I fully expect a full tranny tear down.. I'm not afraid to tear in to anything, and I always have good results with my endeavors. Hey I wouldn't have an M-TDI daily if I weren't a person who likes to open siht up and take a peek
I will look in to the Wavetrack stuff and start to get a feel for what I am looking for.. TDIclub will probably be a huge resource. Is it all basically the same for 02J stuff as well? I see them listed together usually when talking about anything to do with either.
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#391
by
theman53
on 09 Oct, 2012 21:34
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From what I gather the 02a and 02j are basically the same. There are some differences but I cannot think of them at the moment. After seeing my 020 apart I think I could do it as long as I knew what the backlash should be and any other spec that isn't in the bentley BUT I would want to do it in a weekend or have enough space to lay every part out where it goes. Until I would do enough of them I wouldn't want to chance coming back to the project a week or 6 later and have to put the puzzle together. Or not get the backlash correct and fry the gear set in less than 1,000 miles.
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#392
by
steveG
on 14 Oct, 2012 22:54
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Hi been following your thread fot quite a while now I'm bussy putting an ahu in my 81 caddy I got the rover pump a few weeks back when I was over in England.
Already got the mk4 pulley and hub from the alh and the delivery valves from the ahu did you do any other mods to the pumps internals?
And if you get a chance could we get some more bay shots
The 02a is hanging in the bay right now biggest hurdle is hydro clutch and I'm still on the look out for the early corrado speedo cable. Were you able to get the tac to work with your gauge or do you need some sort of optical tac?
Thanks
Keep up the good work.
And thanks to crsmp5 for his help and every one that contributed to making this site such a great soured of knowledge.
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#393
by
8v-of-fury
on 15 Oct, 2012 12:29
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I am using a stock Rover pump for now with the AHU pulley bolted to an opened up 1Z/AHU pump bracket with 1.6 NA delivery valves.
I have no tach, and am using the stock 020 tranny with my stock gauge cluster. All mechanical gauges to keep an eye on things though.
Get some more shots after work today.
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#394
by
8v-of-fury
on 15 Oct, 2012 21:38
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1.6 N/A delivery valves.
300 TDI Land Rover pump.
Original 1998 AHU pulley, with my AHU key as well. Apparently the key way in the Rover shaft does not line up with the AHU shaft? I just found pump TDC with my dial gauge in the end of it during belt installation.
Full bay shot, mind the wiring. Got a lot of temporary things going on in this shot. Not swap related of course, but a bunch of other things! Stereo, Bi-Xenon HID setup, Fan relay, Pimped glow setup from my 1.6.. (havent had to use the AHU glows even in -20c..
)
Now that it is all up and running good.. (until the next stage
) I can tear it all back down and clean clean clean and make it pretty again. lol
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#395
by
CRSMP5
on 15 Oct, 2012 23:22
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rover pump keyway/pully line up dead nuts... mine did at least... just pump pully lock no work... snout of pump in way on bracket for stock lock... and i doubt he drilled his pully for the pin lock they used..
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#396
by
8v-of-fury
on 16 Oct, 2012 12:21
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Well i had heard reports of the rover pump being off about 10 degrees over the 1Z/AHU.
So I just used my dial indicator to tell me where the pump internals shpuld be at TDC regardless of pulley or shaft position.
I dont use locks when I time these anymore.
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#397
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 Nov, 2012 19:50
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Guys, I need some help lol! This extremely efficient engine does not put out enough heat! What do I do!? How do any stock TDI powered vehicles make enough heat to keep the window de-iced in the winter?
I had trouble keeping the windshield not covered in ice build-up last winter when it was a 1.6 NA.. this engine has even LESS wasted heat in to the coolant system.
What do you guys suggest?
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#398
by
bbob203
on 05 Nov, 2012 20:03
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put a piece of thin plywood in front of the radiator.
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#399
by
410
on 05 Nov, 2012 20:04
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If your engine temp comes up but you're still not getting any heat in the cab I would suspect your heater core is plugged. If the engine is not getting up to temp and your rad is warm, it's probably your thermostat. For the heater core, you can unhook the heater core lines and use a garden hose to push fresh water through both ways. It's pretty amazing the stuff that comes out. Be careful though because too much pressure can cause an already weak heater core to leak. The m-tdi I had in my toyota truck could defrost the windows with 15 minutes of idling and once driving produced more than enough heat to keep me warm. There's 3 glowplugs on the drivers side of the head on the coolant out port that you can power up using a switch but they're not that effective. They do load the alternator a bit as well but still the effect is minimal.
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#400
by
libbydiesel
on 05 Nov, 2012 20:09
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put a piece of thin plywood in front of the radiator.
Provided your thermostat is working right, then a piece of plywood BEHIND the radiator will work just as well as a piece in front of the radiator. The temperature of the coolant in the radiator is completely irrelevant to engine temperature up to the point where the thermostat is completely open which pretty much never happens in cold weather. The benefit you get from the piece of plywood (or cardboard, etc...) is from blocking the cold air from flowing over then engine, not the radiator.
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#401
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 Nov, 2012 20:21
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I can visibly see the thermostat open at 180f on my mechanical coolant gauge. The engine takes forever to get up to temperature unless I am on the highway. I am pretty sure the thermostat is working correctly because the lower rad hose dose not get warm until 180f is reached.
It was about 20f for my 45 minute drive to work this morning, I did not have operating temperature for about the first 15 minutes of that drive.. which by the way is highway. Not 125km/h hwy, but 85km/h two lane. I think a coolant drain, heater core flush and a new hotter thermostat are in order as a pre-winter maintenance tune up.
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#402
by
410
on 05 Nov, 2012 20:22
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It really hasn't been cold enough here yet to justify covering the rad so I suspect there is another problem. Even if you do cover the rad, there is still a lot of airflow in the engine compartment unless you have a belly pan or skid plate. The newer tdi's are actually quite insulated using the belly pan, the plastic cover on the engine is also insulated as well as the hood. The main reason for the insulation is for soundproofing but does help to retain heat in the winter.
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#403
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 Nov, 2012 20:34
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I have a stock mk1 hood pad from an old parts car. Looks like it will be making its way on there
Anybody got an AHU engine cover ?
My gf's 88 with the stock 1.6TD makes INCREDIBLE heat, like too hot to hold your hand in front of the vent hot!
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#404
by
libbydiesel
on 05 Nov, 2012 20:50
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My high top vanagon made incredible heat with the 1.6TD. The mTDI takes a long time to get decent heat. My two biggest gripes from that engine are that it's too powerful (makes my clutch slip) and too efficient (heater output stinks). I guess there are worse problems you could have...