1.5na IP... Newbie & Nervous

[Vincent Waldon]

In Vince's how-to after he zero's out and returns to TDC his reading 0.026".  For my own understanding does that mean the pump is retarded as it is?

Yup... that's just an example of what it read the first time... I say "a bit low, as we'll see below" and then go on to list the factory settings *and* the generally accepted "performance" settings.

I'll change the wording to "retarded" just to be clearer... although some people take "wow man, your timing is like so retarded" in a different way.

[mstephenson]

Vince, I'm not being critical of your site.  I knew the answer, but just needed to hear it again the second time.  Thank you for your site.  I think it is very generous that so many are willing to share for the benefit of others.

Well, I started over today and went up to the point of moving the pump.  It's amazing how fast it goes when you have red dots everywhere and a better methodology than the previous days.

So, my timing is retarded as well.  0.031".  I did not preload the dial the 2mm as instructed since I don't know what that means.  Will advance the pump tomorrow and probably go through the motions at least two more times to make sure I'm consistent and at the desired setting.

Beyond the screwdriver method is there another way to remove the stuck oil filter?   

Thanks again.

[burn_your_money]

Preloading the gauge means to insert it so that the dial reads roughly 2.00mm. It does not need to be exact. Preloading ensures that the gauge will not go below zero and give you inaccurate results.

That's not a very good description but hopefully it makes sense.

Regarding the oil filter



or one of these known as boa straps.



I've never had good luck with the actual oil filter wrenches.

[macka]

and failing that boa wrench, just drive a fat shaft screw driver through the housing and give it a whack to knock it loose. It will turn off easily once you break the seal.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

Preloading the gauge means to insert it so that the dial reads roughly 2.00mm. It does not need to be exact. Preloading ensures that the gauge will not go below zero and give you inaccurate results.

That's not a very good description but hopefully it makes sense.



 

In English-English; preloading simply means inserting the dial gauge so that the measuring finger is always being pushed in a little, by the pump's piston, and not floating in mid air when you are turning the engine/pump off the pump cam.

It can be any small amount, as you rezero the dial gauge when you've hit the low regions in between the injection points.

You are the looking for your magic value of 39 thou /1mm to show up on the dial gauge when your flywheel mark hits TDC. [or whatever value you want ]
 
If you get more or less than you are looking for, then this is when you loosen the pump and swing it until you are happy.

Then, before locking everything down, rotate engine by hand aa coule of turns and check dial reads what you want at TDC, and then also drop a big file into the cam slot to check cam to TDC as well...

[theman53]

I have taken old timing belts and made a cut through them. Then they can be wrapped around an oil filter or anything and you can pull away . Cheap too

[8v-of-fury]

that's what I do sometimes, the screw driver trick.. course it doesn't help when the PO puts the oil filter on like he was Lou Ferrigno...

[rabbitman]

Large channel locks work good too, they can pop the filter sometimes though.

[mstephenson]

Just an update for everyone:

Thank you so much for helping with this timing exercise of mine !!!  Also, diesel tastes very bad 

I got the crank/cam perfect.  And I mean that although there are no pics.  I also got the pump timed to .040" (1.5 Pump).  I know this is much advanced but I thought it would still work.  I went through the exercise until repetition was produced at least a hand full of times in a row.

My fuel source is a one gallon can with clear line to filter, new filter, and clear line from filter to IP.  Return line is also clear and goes into a milk jug.

I filled the IP with ATF and the fuel filter with diesel.  Used a primer bulb (that doesn't really work well).  I need to figure out a better way to purge the lines, clamp it and then insert onto pump.

But it won't start.
1.  there is tons of air in the lines, but there is also diesel flow during the cranking process. and enough to make fire.
2.  IMHO there is no fire.  It sounds like it's just turning over and over and pushing fuel through.

I stuck a circuit tester on the GP relay/fuse? on the firewall and on the #4 strip and turned the key on.  There was nothing.

So... tearing off the pump to the put the 1.6rebuilt on.  Pimping GP.  And we'll try this again.

Thanks, Michele

[rs899]

Woah-  I wouldn't give up on that IP yet until you fix the glow plugs.  You really may not be able to tell anything without them working if your compression isn't all that great....you have to fix them anyway...

Rick

[mstephenson]

Well, I misspoke.  A charged battery goes a long way in starting a vehicle...  oops

But that thing runs ROUGH!  If I can get it stablized enough I will make video

I'm not sure a motor mount isn't busted.  I thought it was going to come out of the car.

Me happy!!!   

[rs899]

Without glow plugs, it's going to run rough.  Does it smooth out after a couple of minutes of running?

Try pulling out the cold start knob and see if it helps.....  What are you seeing about air bubbles in the lines?

[rabbitman]

Well, I misspoke.  A charged battery goes a long way in starting a vehicle...  oops

But that thing runs ROUGH!  If I can get it stablized enough I will make video

I'm not sure a motor mount isn't busted.  I thought it was going to come out of the car.

Me happy!!!   

At low idle and especially if the timing's off they do buck around quite a bit. It wouldn't hurt to check the mounts anyways, the one by the timing belt has the shortest life and almost certainly is bad.

Is it smoking at idle?

[mstephenson]

The mount by the timing belt is moving around by the inches.  It will not idle for long.  To keep it going the rpms need to be 1500-2000ish? and it never smoothes out.

Lots of smoke (more like burning fuel) coming out of the oil filler cap and the Oil light won't go off.  It has new oil/filter.

No black smoke out the tail pipe.  more like gray white

So I started up Robin and drove it around for comparison and that light went off right away and showed 4-5 bar on the gauge.

I am going to leave Rudy alone until I get Rusty running with the new pump and such.  I know Rusty ran right (although much retarded) and see what happens.

Oi Vay!

[rabbitman]

What does the smoke smell like? Antifreeze?

That "smoke" coming out the oil cap is from blowby, you should be able to hold your face a foot from it and not get soaked with oil mist. Can you look in the oil fill hole see the cam or is there a plastic thing in the way?

If the oil light won't go off then with the engine OFF and the key on, unplug the wire off the oil pressure sender on the tranny end of the head. The oil light should go off.

If it stays on you have a wiring problem, if it goes off then either the sender is bad or it's really telling the truth.