1.5na IP... Newbie & Nervous

[burn_your_money]

Hello Rudy, Rusty, Robin and Michele,

When I suggested practicing I meant with the dial indicator in the pump.

Looking at your pictures it appears that you are a fair ways out. If you set the cam at TDC how far off is the TDC mark on the crank? The mark on the pump is not as relevant because it is fine tuned with the dial indicator at the end. Always remember to go in the direction of engine rotation (CW) when checking your marks.

It looks like it would run where it is, but it's not "right." You'll get it

There was some oil pooled in the air filter housing. - normal
There was hardly any oil in pan and black as night.  Nothing milky though. normal for it to be black as anything, not low though
The fuel filter (see pic) had so much sludge in it I'm praying it didn't make it past that point. fuel filter or oil filter?

[mstephenson]

I know you meant the pump, but I am saturated and overwhelmed so it's baby steps until I can absorb and be proficient at what little I'm doing.   

I was happy with results today as I completely lost TDC on crank and cam last night and the belt was off.  So, I feel the pictures are a success for today at least.

So the IP is acceptable, but the crank and cam is not.  I will work on that as well as the dial.

Yes, you read correctly.  That sludge was in the FUEL filter.  And lots of it.  I imagine that screen is clogged as well.  What should I do about the tank?  Professional cleaning?  Drain and additives?

...Onward through the fog...

[8v-of-fury]

Michele, you have a wonderful collection of Bunny Rabbits.

Rusty is my favorite

Yes you can use the 1.6 pump, how many miles are on the pump? Older mileage pumps seem to like a little bit more of advance as they age. I have mine timed at 1.03mm or like 0.042". If I had it timed at the stock setting of like 0.90mm and w/e that is in Imperial... the car would not be happy. lol

Play around with the timing, start at stock and see how it does. I'm gonna bet though its gonna like it up around 0.95-1.00mm for an older non turbo pump.

Looks like your a pro at timing the VW IDI Diesel engine Keep it up.

[rs899]

Like "Burn" said, you are pretty close, but your cam timing could be better.  Probably isn't out far enough to cause a collision, but not exactly right.  You really need to find something to lock the end of the cam against the top of the head, loosen the bolt and move the cam gear (while keeping the crank where it is).

You DO have a Bentley manual, don't you?

Rick

[theman53]

Yeah I think a 3" stanley door hinge was used to lock cams before. You should be able to do something like that and fill any gap with the appropriate feeler gauges.

[burn_your_money]

I think a 10 or 11mm wrench will also work for locking the cam.

You are well on your way to success. You're a smart guy for being cautious. The "I timed my engine and it doesn't run anymore" threads are all too common.

[rs899]

You're a smart guy for being cautious. The "I timed my engine and it doesn't run anymore" threads are all too common.

Actually, you are a smart girl, I think.  Anyway yeah, don't make your project become someone else's project.  That's how I got my 91 Jetta for junk prices.

[8v-of-fury]

Michele is a girl name to me, however I have seen weirder things. lol

You are practically the ideal woman, you are working on a VW lol. Can it get any better?

[rabbitman]

You DO have a Bentley manual, don't you?

Rick

I have the Bentley.

 

[rs899]

You are practically the ideal woman, you are working on a VW lol. Can it get any better?

One that works on her own Ferrari?

[8v-of-fury]

I don't much care for Ferrari's. Now if she was tearing down big blocks, adding supers, and pullin some 9s passes.. then it could be better.

[mstephenson]

1.6 pump is rebuilt and never been used.  I think for my newbie sanity I am going to time eveything to what Bentley says "standard setting" until I feel comfortable with how everything runs.

And I am the IDEAL woman!    and I'm a good cook too.

You can thank my brother for all those nights in high school when he would come in and wake me up at 3am to tell me who he drag raced, what they did to his car, blah, blah, blah.  25 years later his knowledge is on the par of NHRA and NASCAR engine designers.  He runs a 68 Mustang with a 351W with a Ron's toilet alcohol injection system and sheet metal intake and CHI heads (which are now getting ported again by someone very famous) on 10.5" slicks in the 1.8mile.  His times are 5.80's and expected to be in the 5.60's after this porting.

Stangofnitro is his post name on youtube.  If anyone is interested.
I have been talking to him about what I've been reading here and he wants to know if anyone has tried to drill out the oil holes in the 1.5 blocks.  He is a gun drill machinist and will do it for them if there is enough material in the block.

I have pics of my new TDC's but I don't you guys will be satisified just yet.  So third time will be the charm.

I also need to tighten everything up and run the crank around again clock wise.  I have been going back and forth so I assume there is slack like Libbybapa is describing.

In Vince's how-to after he zero's out and returns to TDC his reading 0.026".  For my own understanding does that mean the pump is retarded as it is?

Thanks everyone,

Michele

[rabbitman]

I have been talking to him about what I've been reading here and he wants to know if anyone has tried to drill out the oil holes in the 1.5 blocks.  He is a gun drill machinist and will do it for them if there is enough material in the block.

In Vince's how-to after he zero's out and returns to TDC his reading 0.026".  For my own understanding does that mean the pump is retarded as it is?

Thanks everyone,

Michele

Not sure what oil holes your talking about

Inside the IP there's a plunger (one plunge or cycle per injection) and that's what the dial indicator is measuring, it's how far the plunger has lifted at TDC.
Without special/expensive equipment it's not really possible to measure how far before or after TDC it's really injecting.

Most people time these to .036-.040, too much and it'll be too clattery, not enough and it'll smoke (especially when cold), get worse mileage and not have as much power.

Have fun

[rs899]

I have pics of my new TDC's but I don't you guys will be satisified just yet.  So third time will be the charm.

There is no margin for error with valve to crank timing.  Basically, the head gasket is all the room there is between the valves and piston.

The IP lift reading you have is retarded.  It will probably run there, but not very well.  You COULD try it there and just start nudging the top of the IP towards the block (to advance it), but probably better to get closer to .040"

[8v-of-fury]

Michele, in Vince's How-To where he has the pump timed to 0.026" is very retarded in pump timing. I just re-read his site about it, and it appears that engine was just sitting. So the pump was probably just thrown on and not timed. Timing it to 0.026" will most likely run, but I don't think it would be good to waste your time there. Time it to stock settings of 0.90mm (0.036" for you Americans lol).

work on cars and cook!? it really doesn't get any better

Your brothers ride is seriously badass, dayummm.

Being cautious on this is the right thing to do, but I think your ready to go!