best of the best

[NintendoKD]

I am in search of the very best components, for my build.  I need them strong and light, and money is tight, but I dont want lo quality.  I am sending off my aaz heads soon as well as my pump and I still need some injectors to send off to Giles, for modification.  I am also sending off my crank to be lightened and knife edged/strengthened.  I literally need the best components available such as:

http://www.maxspeedingrods.com/parts/rods%20items/vw&audi/VW%20Golf%20Turbo%20Diesel%201.6%20Connecting%20Rods%20Conrods%20Rod%20Pleuel.htm
found these searching about on ebay in europe, and as much as I don't want to order abroad, I want to stay as cheap on shipping/customs as possible.  Anyone know where I can get some other wicked strong go-fast parts/services? I am currently looking to ask GB about his ceramic coating,so when everything gets back I can have it all ceramic coated.  Or actually have the inside of the precup cavities coated to prevent heat transmission into the head, as well as having the outside of the precups treated "non-combustion chamber faces"  I want the very best to go into this engine.  I also am looking into using a dry sump system and modifying the oil pan "more to come soon"  I want to use a custom made hybrid vnt turbo by combining two already great turbos from europe.  I undersand that my particular venture will be pricey, but I wanted to get everyones input so I can compile a list of great stuff to add for the build.  I finally got that check for my totaled car so bring it on, and have some fun with this one guys.  I am having a bit of trouble finding beefy engine components that will work for my special engine.  I also need an intake that will be good to 300 horses, and about 7500 rpms, custom one-off maybe. "maybe, what I really need is a sponsor "  Basically I want to build the baddest IDI on the whole "removed by mod" planet   I am still working on custom made ceramic swirl chambers as well, in case someone is interested.

thanks,

Kevin

[rabbid79]

The connecting rod is considered the single most stressed component of the engine.  Personally, I wouldn't trust Chinese made rods.  I'd get Pauter rods (made in California) for ~$800 and never have to worry about it again.  Here's a link to a price list.http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/vw-rods.html

I would also look at swain-tech coatings.

I didn't see what kind of engine (1.6 or 1.9) you are building.  I'm guessing a 1.6 with 1.9 head?  Get some lightweight hydraulic lifters from 034 Motorsport.  Also get TI retainers and high pressure springs (especially since you'll probably be running 50 lbs. of boost at 7000+ RPMs and you want those intake valves closed ASAP).

If I were you, I'd start with a PD-150 intake manifold and put your time and money into other things until the intake becomes the bottleneck again.  Look on TDI club to see how much power those guys are making with the PD-150 manifold.  Last time I looked, it was around 250HP, but that was a couple of years ago.

You'll probably also want to run water/methanol injection to keep EGTs lower since you'll be on the verge heat wise.  The methanol will also help contribute to the fueling issues (lack of) you will presumably have.

[Smokey Eddy]

Very ambitious there.
I assume you have reviewed all the other previous high HP builds on here? (the Finnish guys [i think they are Finnish?]
they have somewhat disturbing outcomes...
it's near impossible to hold the head to the block after 250 hp from what i've read.

on a more possitive and constructive note in order to achieve this i think you will need

a LARGE intercooler
oil cooling for that turbo
possibly custom made exhaust headers to flow better & faster than the stock manifolds available.
a LOT of porting on that AAZ head
giles pump & injectors
a drag (pucked) clutch rated for some hefty numbers & possibly a transmission upgrade but i dunno much about transmissions
a plenum style intake ORR that massive one theman53 has
i would force air in through louvres on the hood or some sort of hood scoop to help the big turbo you are going to need to spool up
arp head studs, oil pump bolts & con rod bolts (obviously)
steam holes drilled into your 1.6 block will help you out (if you are using a 1.6 block)
the appropriate gauges of course. EGT, oil temp & pressure and maybe a more accurate/reliable coolant temp gauge
and water injection on WOT because you want more fuel than boost
i'd keep the boost at or below 30 psi and just throw enormous amounts of diesel at it.
possibly have cetane enriched diesel as well [additive].

that's what i would do if money wasn't an issue.
Edit: money or reliability

[Rabbit on Roids]

I am in search of the very best components, for my build.  I need them strong and light, and money is tight, but I dont want lo quality.  I am sending off my aaz heads soon as well as my pump and I still need some injectors to send off to Giles, for modification.  I am also sending off my crank to be lightened and knife edged/strengthened.  I literally need the best components available such as:

http://www.maxspeedingrods.com/parts/rods%20items/vw&audi/VW%20Golf%20Turbo%20Diesel%201.6%20Connecting%20Rods%20Conrods%20Rod%20Pleuel.htm
found these searching about on ebay in europe, and as much as I don't want to order abroad, I want to stay as cheap on shipping/customs as possible.  Anyone know where I can get some other wicked strong go-fast parts/services? I am currently looking to ask GB about his ceramic coating,so when everything gets back I can have it all ceramic coated.  Or actually have the inside of the precup cavities coated to prevent heat transmission into the head, as well as having the outside of the precups treated "non-combustion chamber faces"  I want the very best to go into this engine.  I also am looking into using a dry sump system and modifying the oil pan "more to come soon"  I want to use a custom made hybrid vnt turbo by combining two already great turbos from europe.  I undersand that my particular venture will be pricey, but I wanted to get everyones input so I can compile a list of great stuff to add for the build.  I finally got that check for my totaled car so bring it on, and have some fun with this one guys.  I am having a bit of trouble finding beefy engine components that will work for my special engine.  I also need an intake that will be good to 300 horses, and about 7500 rpms, custom one-off maybe. "maybe, what I really need is a sponsor "  Basically I want to build the baddest IDI on the whole "removed by mod" planet   I am still working on custom made ceramic swirl chambers as well, in case someone is interested.

thanks,

Kevin

strong and light, but cheap, and high quality. hmm... usually those things are never in the same sentence together. if one thonks of cheap parts, we think prothe, and generally his quality is not best. usually the good stuff commands top dollar. and 800 dollar rods dont sound cheap to me, but what do you do when you have like one option for rods?

oh yea, i will try some ceramic precups if you run a set and they dont grenade your engine. i guess even if they did, the engine could crunch up ceramic alot easier than inconel.

[dcg9381]

I haven't had custom rods done before, but lots of sets of custom pistons.

There are several manufacturers who will do custom connecting rods here in the USA:
K1 Technologies
www.rrconnectingrods.com

I don't endorse any of the above, but I'd think you could find a USA solution in the material and design that you want, without having to resort to importing...   

The cost between custom pistons and forged pistons isn't that much (in my experience) - I'd expect rods to be about the same..

[Smokey Eddy]

Kevin, the cups still have to be inconel but they would be ceramic coated to reflect heat as ceramic has a very high heat capacity (or is it very low? i always thought low heat capacity meant it could transfer heat easily - ie alluminum has a very low heat capacity like zero? Wikipedia will answer this.) not solid ceramic... they would shatter. think coffee mug.

[truckinwagen]

Kevin, the cups still have to be inconel but they would be ceramic coated to reflect heat as ceramic has a very high heat capacity (or is it very low? i always thought low heat capacity meant it could transfer heat easily - ie alluminum has a very low heat capacity like zero? Wikipedia will answer this.) not solid ceramic... they would shatter. think coffee mug.

not necessarily true, if they are made out of the right ceramic, and are cast and annealed properly they will handle the stress just fine.

the old izuzu diesels had ceramic all over the inside of the motor and they are possibly the longest lasting small diesel out there(probably because of all the ceramic protecting the motor from thermal stresses)

I wont say that they might not shatter(because they might get made wrong, I dont know) but they may just work perfectly.

[theman53]

No think ceramic like 3M Cubitron abrasive grain. It is a ceramic and harder than a woodpeckers lips. It will wear, but not like aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, or alumina zirconium. The cubitron is made to a certain spec. though.

As long as Kevin uses the right blend and fires it well all should be fine.

[Kantdrivefast]

Cheap Fast Reliable

You can only pick two.

Horsepower costs money, how fast can you afford to go?

[truckinwagen]

there is an amount of money you can replace with time.

so if you can afford to do lots of the work yourself(spending time instead of money) you can have fast, reliable, and affordable

this is of course limited by your abilities to fabricate/machine/etc...

[Smokey Eddy]

there is an amount of money you can replace with time.

so if you can afford to do lots of the work yourself(spending time instead of money) you can have fast, reliable, and affordable

this is of course limited by your abilities to fabricate/machine/etc...

Totally back this up
my work has been reliable so far. It's been what i haven't touched that hasn't been reliable. I had no money but heaps of time and i built a decent engine with slim to no cash but with many many hours of time.
asking these guys for help and figuring out the nitty gritty for most of it. Learning how to do things like install rings without breaking them, how to port a head & intake and so it goes on...

[Smokey Eddy]

And i agree,

"the old izuzu diesels had ceramic all over the inside of the motor and they are possibly the longest lasting small diesel out there(probably because of all the ceramic protecting the motor from thermal stresses)"

but are you saying it was ceramic coated or were the components solid ceramic???
all i can see in my head is like ... tiles and mugs...
coating i can see being very benificial. I guess there are types and blends of ceramics i'm not aware of.

[truckinwagen]

many of the parts are solid ceramic, the piston tops have a thick(like 1/4") slab of ceramic on them, and the pre-chambers I believe are made entirely out of ceramic.

the ceramic you are thinking about(and most that we come in contact with in our daily lives) is very low quality, it does a good job at what is built for though.

the ceramic used in automotive/aeronautic applications, however, is very different.
it is very dense and hard. depending on the conditions it is built for it can have very high resistance to heat/wear/etc... and is often tailored to have the same expansion rate as the materials around it so that it can be bonded to them without falling off when heated/cooled.

I have a digitally controlled kiln that I used to use for glass work, and I am looking into making ceramic piston tops, but am having some issues sourcing the ceramic materials to cast with...

-Owen

[shortysclimbin]

it's near impossible to hold the head to the block after 250 hp from what i've read.

you can go higher than 250whp if you machine the pistons for lower CR.  I have over sized valves and a huge race cam coming for ve engines that should help out quite a bit.  If you really want to build something up get an ALh or AHU block and start with that. Add your mechanical pump to it.  The blocks are beefier, the engine have more meat in the pistons, and they are becoming easier to find.  Let me know if you need anything specific, I have quite a bit of spare parts I could be persuaded to get rid of....

[Rabbit on Roids]

it's near impossible to hold the head to the block after 250 hp from what i've read.

you can go higher than 250whp if you machine the pistons for lower CR.  I have over sized valves and a huge race cam coming for ve engines that should help out quite a bit.  If you really want to build something up get an ALh or AHU block and start with that. Add your mechanical pump to it.  The blocks are beefier, the engine have more meat in the pistons, and they are becoming easier to find.  Let me know if you need anything specific, I have quite a bit of spare parts I could be persuaded to get rid of....

you, are officially a dumb ass. you cant run a TDI block with an IDI head on it. it wont work. if you swap out to idi pistons tho, it would work fine, but then you just have a normal AAZ. and you cant run a HUGE RACE CAM in a diesel. you will bend the valves. dave cross built performance cams for a while, and they werent worth the hassle apparently, because he has not made them for quite some time. and you cant just bolt a mechanical pump on a tdi and have a Mtdi... so, lets see pics of this engine you built with a TDI block and an idi head? with the race cam? and oversize valves?

either your gonna make me look like an ass, or im gonna make you look like an ass. i really hope you post up some 300 horse Vw diesel build pics. every other guy that came on here claiming over 250 out of an IDI never proved it with any hard evidence.

PICTURES OR IT NEVER HAPPENED! lol