Leaking oil bottom right side of engine???

[Naturally Aspirated]

Hey, thanks a bunch steve. The coolant tips are so obvious but i never thought of doing that, lol

I already installed the head the way i previously mentioned with a little shift front to back i was able to align the gasket to allow the bolts to slip through on all four corners and then installed the remainder of the bolts, torqued down now i just need to put everything else back  . 

Do you have any insight on the timing? My crank is at tdc and my cam shaft is locked at tdc. The cam sprocket needs to be reinstalled but i figured the IP sproket will lign that up with the help of the crankshaft. I also marked where my camshaft sproket was before removing it so i could place it back exactly where it cam off since it attaches to a smooth beveled surface. My question is if the IP is moved the slightest bit, will i need to re-time the IP? Say the cam sproket goes on a few hundredths of a milimeter before or after, will this affect the IP?

TIA

[SolarSteve]

The cam sproket is infinately adjustable.  In other words, there is absolutely no way you are going to get it back on EXACTLY where it was removed from and the crank moves small amounts really easily.  This being so, I would recommend checking the timing.  I have changed 2 T-belts so far on my car/engine where I pulled the cam sproket and I didn't mark the position (the last time I didn't remove the cam sprocket).  I kept the cam and the pump pinned/locked and made sure the crank was at TDC and when I checked the timing afterwards it was still dead on where it was before I did the job.  That doesn't mean that it can't get screwed up.  A very small change on the cam could cause problems later.  Its not hard to check the timing and the tools are readily available.  I am sure you want to get your car running again ASAP, but my opinion is to do it right the first time and check the timing.

[Naturally Aspirated]

for sure. I marked where the IP was and after installing the TBelt last night i know what you mean by the cam sprocket. Its the last thing to be tightened when doing this. I probably had to install the belt 5 maybe six time before i got the IP and crank at TDC. Then with the cam locked, i tightened the cam sprocket to the specified torque (45NM IIRC). Should be just fine. Should atleast run  . Hopefully it wont leak.

I also did not get the head resurfaced. It looked really clean once i attacked it with gasket remover and a plastic putty knife. Could these pose serious problems? I really only had a bad oil leak and traces of coolant in the leak. Plus the engine never even came close to overheating. Waht are your thoughts?

It says i need to run the engine to warm up then take the VC off again and tighten another 1/4 turn on the headbolts and again after 1000Kms, any thoughts on this?

Oh and i found my intermediate shaft seal slightly pushed out after removing the sprocket to change the waterpump. I cleaned it and pushed it back in. It's only 30,000kms old so i didnt bother changing it, and it wasnt leaking, just not flush.

Gotta change the oil, pour new oil with the VC off to lubricate everything and fill the coolant

Then the dreaded first start  . I'm honestly scared

[SolarSteve]

I would have at least placed a straight edge (builders square) arcoss the head just to be sure it wasn't warped? but it's too late for that now, press on.  How did the gasket look around the area that it was leaking?  If the gasket looked to be damaged maybe you get lucky, if the head has a warp to it you'll eventually find out and how bad...

It sucks about the 1000 miles re-torque, but that is what I have done and I actully could move the bolts.  I would recommend getting the rubber gasket and studs from GAP because the cork gaskets can be a pain to seal properly and the rubber ones are re-useable.

Don't sweat it now, you're almost done.  Before you crank it be sure the IP pin is removed and your ratchet to turn the crank is removed from the crank bolt.  Be sure your GP main wire is hooked up too.  I once did a gasket job twice because I forgot to hook up the GP main wire and couldn't figure out why it was not starting.  Check everythig twice and turn the key without worry.

Good luck, keep us posted

Steve

[Naturally Aspirated]

Well the gasket came off in multiple pieces but not where i thought the leak was. It was really damaged at the center front oil line and in the two front corners. But it seems the oil leaked at the front passenger side and rode the inner t-belt shield to the back and with wind rode around the back and down.

I guess i'll hope for the best

[Naturally Aspirated]

Ok, Why wont this thing start!!!???

Timing advanced or retarded?

Check out this video and tell me what you think

http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t274/bluefireracing/?action=view&current=STP61312.flv

[Naturally Aspirated]

She's alive!!!

Got it all figured out. Just needed a little more time, lol

Thanks all!!!

I'll post back up if i run into a snag tomorrow once i drive it around. Pray for no leaks under load!

[SolarSteve]

Keep a close eye on that temp gauge as there may still be some air in the system.  Also, stop occasionally and check all your fluids.

Good work getting it back together!