Another "Electical Problems" thread *updated, fixed!*

[Rabbit on Roids]

as in, just replacing the fried wires? as long as you get rid of the whole wire. i would try and connect the new wire as close to the terminal, or connect it to a new terminal, then run it. get contact cleaner or something like that too. grays harbor has lots of salt in the air, as it does over on this side of the river. corrosion on electrical connections is a HUGE problem for us buddy...

[CoastalDefender]

as in, just replacing the fried wires? as long as you get rid of the whole wire. i would try and connect the new wire as close to the terminal, or connect it to a new terminal, then run it. get contact cleaner or something like that too. grays harbor has lots of salt in the air, as it does over on this side of the river. corrosion on electrical connections is a HUGE problem for us buddy...

I pulled the connector out of the socket, and am in the process of stripping the wire out of the entire harness (one old piece of electrical tape at a time). Clearing it all the way to the solenoid.

Then I figure I'll connect it to another bullet connector and run it back to the solenoid, and splicing it with the other two wires that go to the glow plug relay and the load reduction relay on line 15...

Should that be sufficient? I'm also going to run a 16ga instead of the 18ga on the wire...

[CoastalDefender]

Well, ran a new wire to the solenoid, spliced into 15 and connected into the black connector... It is still only charging at 10.5v... So it's running the battery down to nothing.

I cleaned up all the grounds and positive connections to the battery, but still losing a lot of volts. What could be killing all my power? Man, this is frustrating!

[CoastalDefender]

Okay, found the star ground for the instrument cluster. HOLY CRAP IS THAT A PITA.

Cleaned off the connections with a wire wheel, reconnected them.

Now I am charging at 12.5v... Still not enough...

Is it stupid to clean them all off again? I hate to say it, but the ground connections under the dash weren't the best when I put them back in (the screw holes), so I am tempted to go reclean them in hopes of 13v+ charging...

[CoastalDefender]

So after more testing I think it's the Alt-Bat wires.

The PO cut off the wires that connect to the Alt and butt-connected spade connectors. However, they did it with (what seems to be) 14ga wires that quickly (within an inch or two) connect to the stock wiring (10ga?). You can see melt and burn marks on some of the modified wiring. The butt connectors have also got hot enough that they melted and fused with the insulation on the wiring.

The voltage shows a drop of 3.8v in those two wires, so I am guessing it's just old bad wires. I've got some 8ga wire here that I will put into place. However, finding a female spade connector large enough to go onto the terminals is proving difficult. I hate to say it, but I might have to drive all the way into Aberdeen tomorrow to get some connectors at O'Reillys or CarQuest.

So since it looks like I am going to replace the alternator wiring setup, what size fuse should I get and splice in-line? 65a alt would get a 70amp fuse?

[CoastalDefender]

Okay, replaced the three wires coming from the Alt w/ 10g wire and connected one to the starter bolt and the other to the + terminal on the battery.

Starts up, stays running, and charges the battery at 13v... I'm going to do more testing and take it for a drive, but it might actually be fixed...

[Powered by Spearco]

Sweet man  . Now take some pics of the car so we can see what you've been working on  .

[CoastalDefender]

Sweet man  . Now take some pics of the car so we can see what you've been working on  .

I'll get on it. Too dark out now.

Funny story- I took my car to where my friend was at for the day, show it off and all. He was helping some Little League volunteers put a roof on their building...

When I got there I discovered they had all bailed on him and he was doing it all on his own. I couldn't leave a friend hanging like that, so I ended up helping put a new roof on a building today...

So my rabbit works, and I am whooped.

Now to do the stereo, and antenna, and body, and paint, and and and....

But first I'll do pics.

[Powered by Spearco]

Wow, what a nice friend you are  .

[CoastalDefender]

Well, this sucks... Drove it to work yesterday. No problems at all.

Then, when I was coming home, I noticed a slight dimming of the lights when I actuated the turn signal. What I mean is, when the turn signal was in the "mid-point", just before it actuates the signal, the lights dimmed for that split second and then returned to normal.

Then, as I was coming home, I touched the brakes to slow for another vehicle, and the headlights went entirely off for a split second, as well as the dash lights. So I did my best to use engine braking until I got home.

When I pulled into my driveway, I played with things, and its definitely when I touch the brake pedal. I even get a slight clicking sound from underneath the dash. Then I turned the lights on and off, and got more clicking and momentary failures during that process. So something is definitely missing it's connection, or something is popping in a relay somewhere.


Any ideas where to start? I want to get this thing up to snuff as my daily driver ASAP.

[somolovitch3]

That is what the load reduction relay is built to do! Dump Head Lights/Wiper Motor/Heater Fan. Headlights are wired directly from key, no? Key switch problems due to over Voltage/Amperige?

Now why is it doing so?  hmmmmmmmmmm........................do' no..................

It is opened by the 50 lead to the starter while cranking, N/C otherwise. I think I am back to hmmmmmmmmmmmmm..........................

Noticed in post above (two or three) load reduction relay wiring was mentioned. Also, I think that the fuel solenoid wire wes more of symtm than cause. If possable, replace the entire engine wiring loom, or VERY carfully inspect it all and replace any questionable wires in a full as length as possable.

I know, you can have a PITA Party! Any and All invited! (BYOE) (BRING YOUR OWN EVERTHING).

I don't know what the Amp rating is on the fusable links. Saab runs a 60 (or is it two) Amp fuse up there in front. Put a (Max Alt Output X 1.5) size fuse in the 8ga wire from battery? Increase to X 2 if needed?

I think were back to the P Party!

[CoastalDefender]

Well, this is a slight bit embarrasing, however the problem has been fixed. It seems in my rush to glee about the vehicle working properly, I didn't clamp down the positive clamp on teh battery cable tight enough, it worked itself loose and then came off entirely. It seems it was grounding to some body piece or something as I was braking (who knows what it was grounding to under the hood).

So, clamped back on the positive post proper, and tight, everything works like a charm again.

[Powered by Spearco]

I bet you'll never do that again  .

Glad you figured it out. Now some pics please  .

[burn_your_money]

Now some pics please  .

Yeah what he said 

[CoastalDefender]

PICS!

Here's my runner and the one behind it is parts.



Body damage



And the Dash.. With my craptastic radio...








Here's the idea-
I need paint on it quick. Thinking a deep forest green like some MkIVs... Anyone have any idea how much the "cheapie" paint job at MAACO will set me back?

Then I need a new set of tires and rims. Black rims and low-profile tires. Totally open to suggestions on this one...

I have a mold problem. While a bit of me wants to rip it all out and start fresh, I don't have the $$$ right now to be able to do that. Anyone have any suggestions on how to alleviate mold? It will end up with some racing buckets in front and hopefully I can figure out how to jam a corrado rear bench in there??

Disc brakes, functional hood scoop for air intake, tinted windows, 1" lower, and *possibly* a round-headlight conversion down the road...


Also, what forum should I start a "build thread" in?