1.6 NA return fuel line issue

[burn_your_money]

Is the OUT bolt stamped out?

Just going back to this one again. It should be stamped right into the top of the bolt. I couldn't see it in the previous picture. Also, is the IN bolt a IN bolt? It has huge holes in it.

That definitely looks like the correct way to time it.

[jseeley]

yup, the out bolt is stamped as such



I also removed it this evening just to check; It has  one very tiny hole in it and I blew through it to make sure there were no restrictions.

I suppose I can double check the IN bolt as well for the same...

Just checked-> IN bolt has 3 large holes, no restrictions.

[burn_your_money]

Remove the out bolt and the pedestal that it is bolted into. Look in the pump and you should be able to see the idle spring (you'll need a flash light)

Move the throttle back and forth to see if the spring compresses and then moves towards the gear end of the pump.

While you have the OUT bolt out, shine a light inside it through the bottom and see if the screen is full of crap, metal fillings or anything abnormal.

Did you happen to re-check your compression when you swapped injectors?

Did you use diesel purge?

[jseeley]

Yeah, I re-checked compression while I had the injectors out. Everything was between 400-425 same as before. Not stellar numbers, but shouldn't be a problem for now. I'm not exactly sure what I should be seeing with the idle spring, but it does compress when I move the idle. Here are some pictures.





I wasn't able to get a good picture when the throttle was turned all the way, but the end of the spring/pin went to about the middle of the opening (hope that makes sense)

[burn_your_money]

400-425 shouldn't cause problems. That's more then my old car had.

What you are seeing in the idle spring is normal and a good thing.

It doesn't look like there is much fuel in there?

Anything in the OUT bolt?

[jseeley]

400-425 shouldn't cause problems. That's more then my old car had.

What you are seeing in the idle spring is normal and a good thing.

It doesn't look like there is much fuel in there?

Anything in the OUT bolt?

The spring is submerged in fuel, It wasn't easy to get pictures without a reflection (you can see reflections of the threads in most of the pictures) I can blow through the out bolt. Is there any sort of or way to test that the out bolt has the proper "flow"?

[burn_your_money]

That's good that the pump is full of fuel.

Can you see anything in the OUT bolt though?

Odds are it's flowing the proper amount of fuel. The fuel isn't traveling fast enough out the orifice to wear it out.



What is the red arrow pointing to? I can't make it out in the pictures.

[jseeley]

What is the red arrow pointing to? I can't make it out in the pictures.

That's the reflection of the threads from the hole that the out-bolt screws into, I was using a flashlight. I can take the bolt out again to check for anything caught in there.

[burn_your_money]

Oh ok, that's good. I thought it was a spring or something

Yeah of you can look in the out bolt that would be good. You may need a magnifying glass, that's what we use at the shop

[jseeley]

Looked in there best I could, seems clean. Seems like the internal walls of the bolt are like a fine mesh screen? pretty neat. I soaked it in some degreaser just in case. Still no change however...

[jseeley]

Spoke with Giles a few times today; He had me pull the idle springs/lever and adjust the spline by hand. While it changes the dynamics of how far I can increase the fuel screw before my ramping idle begins, I still can't manage to get to a point when I can start the car and have a steady idle. Looks like I'll be mailing the pump back 

Now I really hope there IS something wrong internally in the pump; If Giles says the pump is good after he gets it back, then I'm REALLY confused 

[jseeley]

Turns out it was the pump after all->

"pulled your pump apart and found the problem.  it seems that the drive shaft bushings (bearings) spun inside the main pump housing for some unknown reason. the drive shaft was blue and scored and quite a few more parts inside the pump were damaged."

The pump wasn't the original one that was from my car; I got one that was already modded and rebuilt and was ready to go so who knows what could have gone wrong with it. Anyway Giles fixed it on up under warranty. I'm just out the extra shipping and downtime.  BUT I put the pump back in today and timed  it. WOW much easier to get everything running when the pump doesn't have internal problems. Had the car back up and running in no time. Played with the fuel screw and idle a little bit I think I got it dialed in pretty well, just on the edge of smoking... and the idle is what "feels" right since I don't have a tach 

All in all I learned A LOT about my diesel; Thanks to everyone in the forum who helped out.   

[jseeley]

Shot the center out of my injector endcap tonight (after peeling out of a parking lot)

WAY TO GO GILES PUMP! hehe... it's still going strong. Will have to make a new endcap, I guess the one from greaseworks wasn't up to the challenge...