Same engine I have in my Caddy, Vanagon and Jetta A-2. I've been fighting with a new pump all week long so I have this down pat!
All of this is WITH THE BELT ON.
Open the bell housing viewer. Its a plug that sits at the top of the bellhousing and lets you peer down to the top of the flywheel, Make sure you have the timing mark RIGHT in the center of the hole, or the middle of the block. That is your crank TDC. You got two metal blocks and between the blocks is a small "c" or some indicator that is TDC. That should be in the middle of the motor..
Pop the valve cover off.
Look now at the end of the cam. Opposite end of the pully. There is a slice going all the way across the cam. That slice is cut in such a way, that when the cam is at TDC you can lay a flat piece of metal, a file, or a block along that slice and it will lay flat with the top of the head. If that slice is below the head casing, you are off. Turn the motor so that that slice is level with the head casing.
Look again down thru that bell housing hole and see that the crank is again, at top dead center. Putting a belt on and off you can easily get that crank TDC off. Cam and Crank are now TDC.
If the crank matches and is still at TDC, go to your pump. Look down the middle of the pump, at the gear pull facing the pump, you should see a notch on that pully. That notch SHOULD match right in the middle of the pump housing. My Caddy is slightly towards the head at TDC. The notch on the gear pully is on the facing edge towards the pump. I have seen pumps where folks have banged on them creating false notches.
What I have been fighting and finally got it going yesterday, is the pump timing. I had the notch once gear cog towards the head. TOO FAR advanced. Loosening the pump and rotating the pump towards the head advances the timing. There are three bolts. 13mm. two on the face and one below the pump below the injector lines.
When you loosen the belt, it sometimes is a pain getting the belt off the various pullies. Putting the belt back on is easy to get the CRANK timing off...
Check, recheck when you put the belt back on that the crank didnt move.
Bentley Manual was confusing. In regards to the injection pump, they show the key on the end shaft of the pump directly in the middle of the pump. (Pully Gear OFF) It might be confusing that when you put your gear back on, you now need to ROTATE the gear so the notch on the back of the gear facing the pump, now matches up with the middle of the pump.
I have bought literally 20 Rabbits and Caddies over the years where the previous owner has attempted to change the pump or the belt only to get the pump timing off....and it will crank but not start. The 89 Jetta I just got out of PHX, AZ was the same issue. they had the head 180 off, but the crank and pump were right...$650 I bought it for, and it took 1 hour to fix.
Once you get the belt back on, rotate the motor around several turns checking to see that your timing marks match. It is a pain rotating the diesel but as long as your timing marks continue to match you wont bang a piston top to a valve. I smashed my elbow several times when the socket would slip off the cam bolt. OUCH!
A remote starter button helped me getting this Caddy going with a new pump. I had an electric pump priming everything but this new pump hated that pump. I also found a slight air leak near the tank.
FINALLY it fired up. Except.....with the downpipe off, and me playing RACE CAR MECHANIC....the neighbor across the street got all bent over the sound and smoke.... :roll: :roll: :roll:
Topic: '82 Audi 1.6L timing marks (Read 3943 times)
