will check today if the alts interchange. im almost positive they will.
Ever get to check that out?
-Todd
Ace alternator's in yucca valley, ca has the most knowledgeable guys I have ever met. All of the work is done in house, and the majority of parts are off the shelf "their inventory is NUTS" They rebuild the generator for my 54' plymouth and it came out great and was really not that much, you could prolly call and get a quote, they get work from all over the US from what I hear. A lot of off road rig builders in this area because of the joshua tree natnl. monument nearby so they have a really great spot, and they are the single largest seller of interstate and deep cycle batteries on the west coast.... NO, not CA, the whole west coast.
Ever get to check that out?
Both definitely slide in between 2 ears.
Ever get to check that out?
Both definitely slide in between 2 ears.
thats what i thought. just like the A1 alt..
Great; time for an upgrade....
Thanks!
-Todd
Yes they both fit in the adjusting pivot but the difference is where they adjust from. I'm using the Rabbit diesel Alt. bracket and it adjusts from the bottom, so the adjusting tab is lower and theres a carriage bolt that holds it tight. The Rabbit gas Alt. is adjusted from the top, so the adjusting tab is higher. Hope that give you an idea.
Figures, there's always something different...
I'm guessing you just modded/made a different adjustment arm?
-Todd
one alternative i dont hear anyone talking about is just upgrading the stator... get a 90 or 120 amp stator and install it.

i would also advise installing the uprated diode pack too...
one alternative i dont hear anyone talking about is just upgrading the stator... get a 90 or 120 amp stator and install it.
i would also advise installing the uprated diode pack too...
Would this literally be as easy as taking it out and swapping it in? do they fit in the same size case? good idea Jon

Your full of them aren't you lol
Getting these things apart can be a major pita. I tried getting a serpentine alt apart and gave up, months back. It'd be easier to just mod the arm, if needed.
-Todd
one alternative i dont hear anyone talking about is just upgrading the stator... get a 90 or 120 amp stator and install it.
i would also advise installing the uprated diode pack too...
Would this literally be as easy as taking it out and swapping it in? do they fit in the same size case? good idea Jon
Your full of them aren't you lol

hopefully at least one person can benefit from my exhaustive research... lol
the idea stems from homebrew wind/hydro power generation using car alternators. both applications with low speed requires a higher gauge wire (thinner) with more turns to produce enough voltage to charge a bank of batteries. a good way to visualize whats going on is to compare the copper wire to a hose size. the bigger the hose, the less pressure, but more flow. now with multiple small hoses, you still get pressure, but also flow... same concept with more turns with a smaller gauge wire. the drawback is that thinner wire is a little bit more brittle, but with an epoxy coating, it should last a very long time.
this type of research should be critical to every diesel enthusiast... in my search to end the deadly crank nose fix, i've thought of many different ideas... a crank stud instead of stretch bolt (which would work) but why not eliminate the real reason AND get the car to accelerate faster? one thing people need to know, is that the alternator spins at about 3 times the engine RPM. so if you want to rev to 6k, you have a spinning mass going at 18,000rpm. that is pretty crazy considering the weight of the rotor. so the solution is to run a bi-filar or even tri-filar wound stator, and increase the pulley size on the alternator. even a 2:1 ratio would be beneficial. it would really reduce the wear and tear on the crank nose, and really change the revability of the engine. not to mention the ability to run an electric supercharger by converting an alternator to a motor

that being said, i'm not 100% sure if the stators are interchangeable, and so it wouldn't be a bad idea to take a trip to the local alternator rebuilders and ask to see some various stators and measure them. the casings on some are pretty tough to remove, but it is a worthwhile venture for someone who's strapped for cash but wants a higher output alternator.
sounds very interesting, good luck
I have a 100 amp GM Alt..
Hey it was cheap and plentiful...
Me too, because it was the cheapest single wire alternator I could get with a lifetime warranty from AutoZone

I have since shortened the bracket to be slightly higher than the lowest point on the Alt.
Wow, that thing sits low.... is it lower than the oil pan?
-Todd