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#30
by
maxfax
on 15 Jan, 2010 22:23
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I pretty much used all the VW brackets with the GM alternator.. I just needed the deep pulley to get it all lined up.. I'll have to snap some pics when I put the new engine together...
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#31
by
ToddA1
on 15 Jan, 2010 22:33
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Please do... if you take notice of the part #, please post them.
-Todd
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#32
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 16 Jan, 2010 10:46
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Wow, that thing sits low.... is it lower than the oil pan?
-Todd
oh, for sure.
but he is in a van that originally had a motor twice as heavy, so it sits up pretty high in the front.
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#33
by
doonboggle
on 16 Jan, 2010 21:58
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Speaking about alternators, does anyone know the part number ... or version ... of an alternator for a rabbit, non a/c type, that when mounted down near the bottom of the engine ... rather than topside like for the a/c type ... has the long shaft so that the pulley lines up with the belt?
I'm taking my a/c heater unit out and putting in a simple heater unit. In removing the compressor, will install the above described alternator down in it's place, with proper mount bracket, but the alternator(s) I have on hand ... none have the long shaft.
2nd part of this question ... will the normal pulley off of my a/c type alternator be interchangable ... in case I find the right alternator, but has no pulley?
Thanks
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#34
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 16 Jan, 2010 22:25
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the pulley is what is different on the alternators. the total length of the pulley is longer on the non ac cars. the alts are all basically the same, just different pulleys and mounting ears.
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#35
by
vanbcguy
on 18 Jan, 2010 00:09
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Yeah, I just did the AC-ectomy on Jezebel, got the proper brackets and had to switch to the non-AC alternator just for the different mounting ears. It's readily available, although I couldn't find one for less than about $100. Unfortunately the mounting ear position seems to be unique to the VW non-AC diesels so there isn't much interchange.
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#36
by
jtanguay
on 21 Jan, 2010 12:10
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just thought i'd add an
ebay link that gives good instructions on how to swap stators to change the output of the alternator. IMO this is an easier way than modifying brackets...
they have a model that makes 512 volts @ 2500 rpm... and thats not engine RPM if you use the stock pulley.... that would be at around idle of the engine!!! new anti theft device?
if anyone was wanting to experiment with HHO production, this would be the perfect way to do it. 12v produces such a negligable amount of HHO unless an electrolyte is added (which then reduces the life of the plates etc). maybe i'll try that where my a/c compressor goes as a second alt?
other stators available don't produce as much volts, but are still good. if anyone wanted to make a little hybrid electric car this would be perfect.
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#37
by
NintendoKD
on 21 Jan, 2010 14:25
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A/C is a much more efficient way of producing brown's gas the type/quality of water used is a negligible calculation and for most cars with fancy electronics this would cause serious damage to the computer and everything else, but in our cars, with correct wiring........ HMMMMMMM.......
Hybrid diesel water powered car anyone?
would it work as Hydrogen counts as a fuel and if it is inducted with the initial air charge premature combustion may occur, as is the case with using propane but increased pure oxygen would be highly beneficial not only to aid combustion but also to the environment. How do LPG injection systems work? if I knew maybe I could work a pressurized on-demand system for bron's gas and no one would have to use diesel as a fuel just inject pure hydrogen. An electromagnet could be used in the separation camber, and because the air is given a charge it will be attracted to one outlet of the other and flow of hydrogen/oxygen can be controlled and routed.
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#38
by
jtanguay
on 21 Jan, 2010 14:44
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A/C is a much more efficient way of producing brown's gas the type/quality of water used is a negligible calculation and for most cars with fancy electronics this would cause serious damage to the computer and everything else, but in our cars, with correct wiring........ HMMMMMMM.......
Hybrid diesel water powered car anyone?
would it work as Hydrogen counts as a fuel and if it is inducted with the initial air charge premature combustion may occur, as is the case with using propane but increased pure oxygen would be highly beneficial not only to aid combustion but also to the environment. How do LPG injection systems work? if I knew maybe I could work a pressurized on-demand system for bron's gas and no one would have to use diesel as a fuel just inject pure hydrogen. An electromagnet could be used in the separation camber, and because the air is given a charge it will be attracted to one outlet of the other and flow of hydrogen/oxygen can be controlled and routed.
the diesel engine is definitely aided by running hydrogen. the engine will still require diesel to run, but the more HHO is added to the burn, the more power will be created, even if the diesel being injected is only enough to sustain idle. so you leave the diesel IP alone and just throttle the engine with the HHO/browns gas. 100+mpg anyone?
or if you swap glow plugs with spark plugs, then you could run 100% HHO/browns. the retarded timing of diesel engines makes them ideal to run HHO as gassers have such a steep timing curve that at idle they seem fine, but rev it up and you get some crazy detonation. of course a re-map or chip can solve this, but the added compression ratio of a diesel will boost the efficiency even higher.
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#39
by
NintendoKD
on 21 Jan, 2010 14:56
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sorry for the off topic banter, we should def make this a new thread. Mod anyone? this is an excellent Idea I say let's do it, the kind of power you would get from it would be good, except there are a few thermodynamic issues and other things to take into consideration. The pure combustion of Brown's gas is not combustion, it is imbustion "missing the C for carbon
" due to the combining of hydrogen and oxygen being a compression of the two, and as a result acts as a cooling action which for a diesel could be bad. The oxidation that occurs afterwards could also be of concern, I have run a system in a gasser before.
Kevin
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#40
by
arb
on 21 Jan, 2010 23:33
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Wow, that thing sits low.... is it lower than the oil pan?
-Todd
Yeah,, just a little. I have plans to make a skid bracket to protect it. Other priorities first. I have not bottomed out since I lowered it. I did replace it once under warranty when the internal regulator went to 18v - Never seen that before. It fried my ECM so I lost a few things like fuel gauge, turn signals, intermittent wipers... but,,,, these do not keep me from getting down the road :-)
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#41
by
NintendoKD
on 22 Jan, 2010 00:15
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Arb, you, my friend, never cease to amaze me to no end... Is that a double negative? Either way I think you get what I'm trying to say. Good Job,
Kevin
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#42
by
maxfax
on 22 Jan, 2010 08:52
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I did replace it once under warranty when the internal regulator went to 18v - Never seen that before. It fried my ECM so I lost a few things like fuel gauge, turn signals, intermittent wipers... but,,,, these do not keep me from getting down the road :-)
I've seen that happen a few times on I think the Nippendenso alts.. A guy had that happen a fairly new Mazda, except it was putting out almost 25V.. And he kept driving.. IT got expensive quick.. Fried darn near everything..
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#43
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 22 Jan, 2010 09:31
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one time the alt went out in my buddies 80's nissan pickup. we dont know what it was putting out, but the gauge lights kinda hurt your eyes for a second before they all burned out.
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#44
by
DarkwingDork
on 30 Jan, 2010 00:52
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Mine is stock and 65 amps. Driving home in a snowstorm with the blower, lights, radio, GPS and wipers on, my alternator couldn't keep up. The battery is good and never slow cranked before, but did this time. I needed to jump start it and charge the battery when I got home. It's been fine since.
Is there a drop in replacement? Not looking to go serpentine, and I'd rather just keep all the A1 brackets, if possible.
-Todd
Clicketh thou this link:
http://mk1ultra.com/mods/90a_alt/index.html This is how I put a 90amp alternator on my 1.6L (NA) in my 84 Rabbit whilst simultaneously deleting the AC (without changing that alternator bracket) and solving all belt tension issues. Changing belts is so easy that I almost wish I had to do it more often. Plus, My shift light still works MUHAHAHAHA!!!!! Have a look at
http://mk1ultra.com/mods/w_terminal.html to for more information on how to add a W terminal where one did not exist previously. Hope this helps.
~Jon