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#15 by maxfax on 08 Nov, 2009 22:09
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It could even just be crud in the tank gunking up the works.. Chances are, though, the rubber parts of your lines ain;t what they used to be either way...
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#16 by Black Smokin' Diesel on 09 Nov, 2009 10:54
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You could pull some fuel from the tank and run the engine off this fuel in a separate container. If it runs then you'll know the fuel is good.
I'd pull the fuel level sender from the tank and see if the screen is clogged. Disconnect the fuel lines from the pump and fuel tank and blow air in them. You'll know if they are clogged. -
#17 by 8v-of-fury on 22 Nov, 2009 20:59
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So guys I was talking to the PO, and it turns out that the ODO stopped working like 10-12 years ago and that 410k is more like 700-750k!
HOLY CRAP!!! Get this.. ALL ORIGINAL... EVERYTHING!!!
Explain this to me.. how does an engine that's this old and used run this well? i mean you get no run-on (or the diesel equivalent) after you kill the fuel solenoid the engine stops it doesn't turn over again or anything.. ITS TIGHT!
I am ordering a good set of parts for the girl tonight
Oil pressure sensor Seal Ring, Timing Belt and Tensioner, Mann Oil Filter, Valve Cover Gasket, Brake Shoe's, Brake hardware Kit, Injector Heat Shields, Duraterm Glow Plugs
Subtotal: $148.88
Shipping: FREE!
Order Total: $148.88
Getting it saftied shortly there after, and hopefully on the road as soon as possible! YESS AWESOME.
What should I look out for with an engine with this amount of mileage?!? lol
Anything else you can think of I may need before i send this order in? -
#18 by Black Smokin' Diesel on 23 Nov, 2009 19:52
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Check the oil pressure and compression. If it's good and it runs well then the engine is healthy. At 700k I'm be more worried about the 020 tranny crapping out than the engine
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#19 by 8v-of-fury on 24 Nov, 2009 05:27
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Check the oil pressure and compression. If it's good and it runs well then the engine is healthy. At 700k I'm be more worried about the 020 tranny crapping out than the engine
Yeah really eh, I hope it doesn't crap out its an FF!! 3.89 final and .71 5th! lol I have two others.. but there an AWY and a 4K 3.94 final and .89 5th...
lol
it runs extremely well for how many kms i now know are on it! lol -
#20 by burn_your_money on 28 Nov, 2009 05:46
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Well that was weird...
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#21 by catlin_cava on 28 Nov, 2009 06:12
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#22 by 8v-of-fury on 28 Nov, 2009 18:36
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what the hell..? lol
why was that even in this post?
where is it now? did u delete it tyler? -
#23 by Vanagoner on 28 Nov, 2009 20:41
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I actually did an antenna delete on purpose. On my last vanagon some punks broke one off and on this one it was falling apart on it's own. I got tired of the wind noise and the visual distraction.
I got a solid one, bent it a little, and installed it across the top of the windshield inside under the visors.
I used a couple little sections of fuel line for bushings, plastic clips around those screwed into the stock holes of the sunvisor clips. The lead is black and dissapears next to the windscreen seal on the right side as it goes down to the corner of the dash. -
#24 by 8v-of-fury on 28 Nov, 2009 21:16
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I might just do that Vanagoner, it sounds like a very nice and seamless install! do you have any pics by chance?
So i was working on the car last night (parts came in! ) and i tore it all down and started getting it ready.
I will be running my slightly leaking pump (Tyler I need a head o-ring, while i remember!.. ill pm you) from the 91 engine, as it has the fast idle when you have the cold start lever out and does not have shaft play. Which reminds me.. what can be done about pumps with side-to-side shaft play? are they garbage? or what?
while i had the pump out, i took the time to put my new gp's in and get them all wired up and lookin' pretty. got the new pump back in, just needs to have the new tensioner and belt, and be timed. For this being my first in-car timing.. how are you supposed to get the tensioner off the stud? only way i could do it , was to double nut the stud from the engine.. no biggy.. will make getting the new belt on like 6 million times easier as well.
I checked the timing before i removed the old pump to find that it was at 0.041" .. which surprised me because that is like 1.05mm.. i later found out that my cold start was out... IDIOT! so i presume that the timing was somewhere around 0.038" or 0.037" depending on how much the cold start advances the timing.. it ran really well at idle with the cold start valve out at the 0.041" setting. So I will probably re-time it back at 0.040"-0.041" as it seemed to like it there. The car started fairly well being set where it was with the cold start.. so i think a little more advance. maybe bring the timing up 3 degrees. 0.041" to keep the cold start advance at 0.043-4" see how it works.. if not tear it down.. redo. lol
I still have to change the oil, check the coolant, new air filter, back brakes, e brake cables, and.... Wire in the dash switch for the gp's and change some light-bulbs to get my signals working lol -
#25 by vwjones on 29 Nov, 2009 05:11
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i had the same problem and unhooked the fuel line at the tank and at the filter and blew some low psi air through the line. it was amazing what came out. ran fine after that