I know what the book says about the Intermediate shaft , but.....

[rs899]

OK so I have the pistons/rods out and I'm about to hone the block with the engine still in the car- 1991 Jetta 1.6 NA;

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21204.0
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21497.0

...and I trash and remove the lower timing belt cover ( I hate those) and now I am face to face, finally , with the intermediate shaft pulley.

And I wiggle it, and , crap, there's lots and lots of slop in it side to side (mostly front to back, not in and out).  Maybe .030" or .040" at the front bearing.  The rear bearing ( near the oil pump) really feels pretty good. (I am under the car with the oil pan off, oil pump outta there, no pistons or rods).  The PO probably ran the bloody belt too tight- I checked my '82 Rabbit pickup that I rebuilt 200K miles ago and there is no discernable play at the front pulley.

The good book says you have to pull the engine to service the intermediate shaft bearing, but it really looks like on a MKII you can remove the rear mount, perhaps the front mount and drop the engine on the right about 2 or 3" and the shaft should pull out through the right wheel well. 

Has anyone tried this?  I really do not want to pull the engine- nor do I want to put this thing back together with a front intermediate shaft bearing that is this sloppy. 

What are my options?

Rick

[MizpahPAH]

Hey

Check out
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=18464.0

I did it in my 86 NA Jetta with the engine still in the car, crank and pistons still installed.

Hardest part was getting the oiling holes to line up I used the all thread and pipe caps.

[rs899]

Thanks - that's good stuff to know about how to install them.  But I'm not there yet..I need to get the shaft out.

I just did a search and there was at least one reference to doing it by dropping the engine, so I am going to try it.

Rick

[rs899]

It seems like you're already so far in it it would only be a few more bolts to have the block on the bench and have an easy time of it.

I know, I know.  I am fighting that thought.

My first real wrenching experience was changing the main bearings in place on a TR-7.  My buddy (who had a Rabbit, BTW) said it could be done, despite what the "book" said.  He was right, but it took me about 6 weekends (had a crossmember under #2).  I told myself, never again.  That car had 110K miles on it.  I sold it not too long after, but I am sure it would have needed rings fairly soon etc, etc.

On this one, what's keeping me from pulling it are the other 10 cars I own that aren't getting fixed, and the thought of spending serious money right now for pistons, machine shop boring etc that will bring the price of this hundred dollar wonder up to , well, a fair amount.  If I can get at least 50K miles out of it, I should be retired and won't have to put the grueling miles on my "fleet", but can  just use them all as "pleasure" craft, more or less.

The other problem is that this "small project" is sitting on sand , not on concrete, so it's really going to be more messy and harder to stabilize all that iron on sand.

So far , it is looking like removing the motor mounts will make it work.  I was going to change them anyway.  I have a new rear mount and I may as well buy a front one...

Rick

[RabbitJockey]

someone did it in my 81 jetta with the engine still, in, they cut the wheel well and bent it then bent it back and slopped some mud or something over it when they were done

[MizpahPAH]

I did mine in my sand drive way. I supported the engine removed the rear passenger motor mount lowered it enough to slide out the shaft.

I ruined the first two bearings It was a PIA!! If I was faced with having to do another set I would be more inclined to do it out of the car.

Especially if I had any other repairs to make, i.e. rear main seal, transmission flange seals, clutch, or the mileage on the motor to suspect their needing replacement
I do understand $12.00 in parts keeping me from having a running car, thats why I did mine in the car.

You will also need a oil filter flange gasket.

I stuck a nylon wire tie with some yellow tape through the oil hole in the block behind the filter flange for alignment.
Be sure the grove in the bearing from the oil hole poinits twords the gears on the shaft and vacuum pump

[rs899]

Just so ya know...

Despite what it says in the book, on a MKII, if you remove the front and rear motor mounts it is very possible to remove the intermediate shaft.  In fact, you don't even need to take the right side wheel off.

After examination, I have more like 10-15 thousanths (inch) play in the bearing  by the pulley, maybe 3 thou at the oil pump.  I don't think the bearing at the pulley flaked apart (yet), just got worn.

Now for the replacement part...  - I think I am only going to go for the one at the pulley as the oil pump one is too hard to get to with the crank in place (and it's not worn badly anyway).

Thanks for your help.

Rick