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#30
by
Smokey Eddy
on 30 Sep, 2009 03:55
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I'm having some extremely rough starts now in the morning...
Timing?
It sounds very very rattly like a tin can full of marbles so im sure it's advanced enough, but maybe it's not? I don't actually have a timing gauge to see what it's at. ... i timed to the marks and then pushed the pump as for to the head as it would go.
Isn't that the sound of too much advance?
Yes it is, thats why i said im sure it's advanced enough.
I'm thinking the pump might be filling with air while the car sits over night. The rubber line from the filter to the pump is perishing a little. When i bend it in the creases there are cracks in the rubber.
If it is too advanced it will be very hard to start. Often you can tell by the effect of the cold start lever. If it is harder to start with the cold start lever pulled, then the pump is too advanced.
That was kinda where I was headed, that it was too far advanced.
Again, would that explain the really rough driving while it's still cold? Remember, it didn't always do this. This issue came on very suddenly. Over the course of 48 hrs. Maybe it's a combination of air in the pump and timing advance?
I listened to it run in my garage very carefully. It sounds like there is something metal, loose, banging. But there obviously isn't (unless its a valve?!
)
I listened to every injector with a screwdriver and the far left injector, which leaks diesel out a return nipple, was a loud and deep sound and the injectors sounded progressively more high pitched and quieter as i went left to right.
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#31
by
FoXBoXRaCiNG
on 30 Sep, 2009 04:53
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Where can a person get a spring loaded toggle switch that goes to off when you let it go? I can't find one of those things anywhere.
As an idea, I used an old blank and hacked off the back 4mm to make a bushing for a power window switch to slide into, that whole assembly went in the dash
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#32
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 30 Sep, 2009 12:02
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you should time it. when my engine rattled the most, is when it ran its worst. now that i have it timed more properly, it is so quiet. it rattles so much compared to my audi.
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#33
by
Smokey Eddy
on 30 Sep, 2009 13:18
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Where can a person get a spring loaded toggle switch that goes to off when you let it go? I can't find one of those things anywhere.
As an idea, I used an old blank and hacked off the back 4mm to make a bushing for a power window switch to slide into, that whole assembly went in the dash
Did you make your own heated seats?!?!?
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#34
by
truckinwagen
on 30 Sep, 2009 14:44
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looks like ejector seats to me!
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#35
by
Smokey Eddy
on 01 Oct, 2009 03:52
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far left switch
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#36
by
Turbinepowered
on 01 Oct, 2009 12:45
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far left switch
So what are the other two? Ejection seats and prop turnover?
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#37
by
Smokey Eddy
on 01 Oct, 2009 16:10
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Ya!
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#38
by
Turbinepowered
on 01 Oct, 2009 18:45
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#39
by
macka
on 01 Oct, 2009 19:52
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So do you use 2 10G shotgun blanks like the old Wasp radials?
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#40
by
Turbinepowered
on 01 Oct, 2009 20:37
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#41
by
AAZTristar
on 28 Jun, 2014 15:02
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Hi everyone, bumping this old thread.
I'm doing the pimped glow plug mod as part of my Giles IP upgrade and want to add the glow plug LED indicator on the dash.
Anyone have additional information or pics of the circuit/wiring needed to add the LED up to the dash? Vince's article does not have much info about this mod. Thanks!
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#42
by
vanbcguy
on 28 Jun, 2014 21:40
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For an absolutely simple install just get a dash mount indicator light from an auto parts store. Connect it to the power supply to your fuse block. Done!
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#43
by
AAZTristar
on 29 Jun, 2014 16:49
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OK. I feel silly. Absolutely over thinking this. It is really simple.
Just a line from the switched side of the solenoid and a ground. Duh!
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#44
by
mstephenson
on 18 Aug, 2018 15:19
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I have been reading and reading, but I still have a question about the pimping via Vince's design:
Power comes from Battery => in cab thru fire wall => relay terminal 30 (always on)
Switch closes
Power leaves the relay via terminal 87 => out thru fire wall => thru 50amp VW fuse => added solenoid => added fuses => each GP.
Please help me understand this...
The direct power supply to each GP has been truncated from going from battery to OEM relay to GP, BUT isn't 50ish amps still going to OEM relay and back out to solenoid power switch supply?
That being said, The other question I have is more electrical in nature. When current flows, is it pushed or pulled? i.e. is the battery pushing the current or is the GP pulling the current from the power source? If it is a pull, then does the solenoid only pull enough amps to close the circuit thereby answering my first question?
Thanks
-m