Pimped Glow Plugs

[darrenjlobb]

Sorry if this is totaly random....

But why do you re wire the plugs with ur own wiring? What is wrong with the stock system?

[Vincent Waldon]

The glowplug system is an important part of the proper operation of our IDI engines and so there's general interest in making sure it's the best it can be.

The stock system is fine and works well but like most designs could always benefit from a re-think.  Here's my own view on some areas where the stock system could be better:

    *  the full amperage of the circuit (50 amps or so) passes thru the firewall and thru the connectors in the fuseblock
    * the copper buss bar makes removing the glow plugs a pain since you have to completely remove the 8mm nuts
    * the copper buss bar makes troubleshooting a pain since all plugs are connected in parallel
    * the 50A fuse is prone to hairline fractures that takes out all your glowplugs
    * the glowplug relay itself is *extremely* expensive
    * the length and gauge of the factory wiring results in a reasonably significant voltage drop to the glow plugs... I've measured below 9V at the plugs when the battery was delivering 12.5V

I also think folks pimp their glowplugs because they can.   It's a simple set of modifications well within the skillset of the average owner.

[Smokey Eddy]

I'm having some extremely rough starts now in the morning...

Timing?
It sounds very very rattly like a tin can full of marbles so im sure it's advanced enough, but maybe it's not? I don't actually have a timing gauge to see what it's at. ... i timed to the marks and then pushed the pump as for to the head as it would go.

Isn't that the sound of too much advance?

Yes it is, thats why i said im sure it's advanced enough.
I'm thinking the pump might be filling with air while the car sits over night. The rubber line from the filter to the pump is perishing a little. When i bend it in the creases there are cracks in the rubber.

[macka]

Sorry if this is totaly random....

But why do you re wire the plugs with ur own wiring? What is wrong with the stock system?

I did it for the cold weather reliability factor. I hate using ether in an engine,its dangerous for one thing and can cause damage for another. It gets cold here, and having glowplugs that work is important.

[Rabbit TD]

I think it is a very good idea and if for no other reason just to make it easier to troubleshoot each plug and for removal.  I just got a new set of Bosch Duraterms with the fast relay but I hooked it up stock just for now and it works fine but I am going to do this modifiation.  I was just too damn lazy to go get the heavier wire even though I know the time it takes just to put those little 8 m/m nuts on takes 2 times longer than it would have taken to go get the wire.  I still have to get it and do the mod anyway.  It really is a good idea and will definately help in a lot of ways.  Plus you can almost rest assured when you turn the key on and hear the solenoid click that there is current going to the plugs unless for some reason one of the fuses is blown but you still have the others.  Very good idea

[lovinthedeez]

Sorry if this is totaly random....

But why do you re wire the plugs with ur own wiring? What is wrong with the stock system?

For stock situations, to each their own.  but in my case, where I swapped a diesel motor into a gasser chassis, it relieves a person of having to get all the relay, fuse panel, and whatever other associated stuff.  vinces recipe is top notch in my opinion.  only time it failed was when it was MY fault, using a toggle switch instead of a push button (fried my solenoid ).  couldn't remember which position was on and I paid the 13 dollar price.  I wish I had 3 thumbs so I could give another thumbs up. 

[Rabbit TD]

Sorry if this is totaly random....

But why do you re wire the plugs with ur own wiring? What is wrong with the stock system?

For stock situations, to each their own.  but in my case, where I swapped a diesel motor into a gasser chassis, it relieves a person of having to get all the relay, fuse panel, and whatever other associated stuff.  vinces recipe is top notch in my opinion.  only time it failed was when it was MY fault, using a toggle switch instead of a push button (fried my solenoid ).  couldn't remember which position was on and I paid the 13 dollar price.  I wish I had 3 thumbs so I could give another thumbs up. 

Where can a person get a spring loaded toggle switch that goes to off when you let it go?  I can't find one of those things anywhere.

[macka]

Sorry if this is totaly random....

But why do you re wire the plugs with ur own wiring? What is wrong with the stock system?

For stock situations, to each their own.  but in my case, where I swapped a diesel motor into a gasser chassis, it relieves a person of having to get all the relay, fuse panel, and whatever other associated stuff.  vinces recipe is top notch in my opinion.  only time it failed was when it was MY fault, using a toggle switch instead of a push button (fried my solenoid ).  couldn't remember which position was on and I paid the 13 dollar price.  I wish I had 3 thumbs so I could give another thumbs up. 

Where can a person get a spring loaded toggle switch that goes to off when you let it go?  I can't find one of those things anywhere.

here is a push button switch for you

http://www.ace4parts.com/Products/Automotive-Push-Button-Switch-50A--at--12VDC%28Momentary%29__30-12475.aspx

[macka]

Yes it is, thats why i said im sure it's advanced enough.
I'm thinking the pump might be filling with air while the car sits over night. The rubber line from the filter to the pump is perishing a little. When i bend it in the creases there are cracks in the rubber.

well replacing that seems to be imminent, however have you checked your water separator and the rest of your fuel system? I had a bunk separator that caused grief. 

[Turbinepowered]

Where can a person get a spring loaded toggle switch that goes to off when you let it go?  I can't find one of those things anywhere.

You want a "momentary" contact toggle switch. I've had good luck finding those at NAPA. What I'm looking for now is a momentary-off-on three position toggle, and nobody wants to sell me one.

[macka]

have you tried a supplier for instrumentation? I've seen them in control panels in the paper industry.

[8v-of-fury]

Ed i think your problem was caused by you doing way too many 2nd gear WOT burnouts lol

take your lines off your filter and run the car of a jerry can making sure the lines are submerged in fuel, if it runs good in the morning you know you got bad lines that are leaking air lol

[Vanagoner]

I like the flip-up red plastic cover on my dash switch, plus an indicator light.  I haven't left it on yet. But then again I also just got a new relay so I won't have to use it as much anymore, which is also a good reason to have the spring loaded plastic cover on that switch...

[Smokey Eddy]

Thanks 8v-of-fury and libbybapa! those lines to the filter are due for a change anyways and i'll test out the cold lever deal tomorrow morning.
But will too much advance give the really bad driving conditions i described?

[Turbinepowered]

I'm having some extremely rough starts now in the morning...

Timing?
It sounds very very rattly like a tin can full of marbles so im sure it's advanced enough, but maybe it's not? I don't actually have a timing gauge to see what it's at. ... i timed to the marks and then pushed the pump as for to the head as it would go.

Isn't that the sound of too much advance?

Yes it is, thats why i said im sure it's advanced enough.
I'm thinking the pump might be filling with air while the car sits over night. The rubber line from the filter to the pump is perishing a little. When i bend it in the creases there are cracks in the rubber.

If it is too advanced it will be very hard to start.  Often you can tell by the effect of the cold start lever.  If it is harder to start with the cold start lever pulled, then the pump is too advanced.

That was kinda where I was headed, that it was too far advanced.