The $50... Errr $67.93 paint job =) - page 2 - General - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #15 by drrtybyl on 06 Sep, 2009 16:22
• I say mask it off and go 3 or 4-color hot pink&purple camo
• #16 by 8v-of-fury on 06 Sep, 2009 16:51
• As hot as that would be.. I don't think I am the type of guy who could pull it off! LOL
• #17 by Baron VonZeppelin on 06 Sep, 2009 23:08
• Quote from: 8v-of-fury on 06 Sep, 2009 15:46

  What do you mean when you say spray can will not hold up very well, Baron?? In the picture at the top the whole back half is spray bombed, and it held that way for a year and a half. and it was one coat of trem clad semi gloss on a non sanded clear coat. So i don't know what you mean.

  
  The main reason you don't know what i mean, is because you haven't been doing top notch refinish work for almost 25 years.
  
  Don't misunderstand, that i realize you aren't in any way trying to do that anyhow. That much goes without saying.
  
  Soaking wet with the water still running off the car - as it is in your picture, even primer can look okay.
  A semi-gloss like you used before is going to be harder to gauge the rate of deteriation - as opposed to the Gloss finish you are going for now.
  
  Do your car exactly the way you feel like doing it.
  You've definitely got it by the balls there tiger.
  
  But i have seen a couple oil base exterior enamel paint jobs sprayed on that looked pretty spiffy for the coin spent (well...not spent). And they held up fairy well for about 3-4 years. But they were not Black (fwiw). And they were not mine.
  
  I have never seen a Gloss rattle ball painted hood or trunklid that still looked good (glossy with reflection and distinction of images) for more than a month or two, of normal driven operation. Keep in mind i'm not talking about buffing it or polishing it to try and maintain it. But one coat won't handle very much of that anyway.
  
  If you keep it in a garage and never drive it but small amounts in fair weather, it could go longer. But gloss black, from a rattle ball sprayer, is about the worst choice there is.
  
  This is just friendly advice.
  And your hood looks like pure hell. 
• #18 by 8v-of-fury on 07 Sep, 2009 14:57
• ok. so say i decide to use the gloss roll on as my base coat on getting a good setup for a good spray on..
  
  Baron, you say your Pro so please just give me straight up answers like you have been it's alot easier to take criticism when it's serious.
  
  Say I want to do a spray coat of Semi, or Flat. will it go on over the gloss roll on well? I mean I understand it's not going to look Fantastic, but that's OK because it's not the look I am going for. What will I need to start with for a good Grit to get the roller coat smooth? like a 320 dry followed by a 500 wet as you suggested? For either of these coats.. do you suggest sander or by hand?
  
  I mean I would like this to come out ok.. the way it is I have gotten a dozen or so compliments soo.. it can only get better right?
  
  What do you suggest Baron?
  
  p.s how come your username only has like 30 something posts? is this a new user under the same name variation? Or am I thinking of your Vortex username? 
• #19 by Baron VonZeppelin on 07 Sep, 2009 21:19
• 8V, I just recently joined here. But been guest reading here for a while.
  Yeps, this is my Vortex and my general www screen name.
  
  Using what you have as a ground coat sounds ideal for what you're doing and looking to accomplish.
  At first i thought that was the plan of attack you were using.
  But i overshot a bit on that.
  
  Stay with the same brand, or at least same base type (aka oil base, latex, whatever is on there now). Going to Semi-gloss or Eggshell will be fine.
  
  If you're staying with Black, one of those would be the best choice versus Gloss. Gloss Black will magnify most all imperfections in the body or the paint.
  
  I wouldn't use Flat. Because your semi-gloss or eggshell is going to weather and be flat in a matter of time. About a year or so probably, as a guess.
  If you start flat black, as it weathers it goes to chalk grey.
  
  Me, i'd run over the bulk areas with 220-240 dry on a D/A sander to get it knocked flat quickly. Come back over those areas with 320 dry on the sander. Then go back over whole car with 500 wet. Then get around all the tight spots with red or grey scotch-brite.
  
  I have done some commercial spraying with air spray equipment using oil base enamel. 3 parts paint to 1 part mineral spirits worked nice for me.
  
  If you use a Wagner or airless sprayer - do some spray tests on big cardboard or something before hitting the car, and work out your thinning ratio to where it lays out nice and smooth quickly and easily - without running off.
  
  Normally it will say no reduction or thinning required. That doesn't mean you are best off without thinning it. It just means you don't HAVE to thin it for it to be spray-able. Test to your preference before spraying it on the car regardless of what spray equipment you use.
  
  Ideally, 2 medium wet coats that lay out easy and quick, will dry better and look better than mashing 1 heavy thick coat on it. Keep a small 1" high quality brush nearby in case you do run it somewhere.
  
  Good Luck
  
  And do some more prep on that Hood !
  Its supposed to be the best looking panel on a fresh paint job.