Author Topic: Exhaust Temp Gauge Positioning  (Read 3175 times)

August 30, 2009, 06:52:43 pm

MikeyB

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Exhaust Temp Gauge Positioning
« on: August 30, 2009, 06:52:43 pm »
 drive a 1.9 turbo diesel westy. The motor is brand new and runs very well.

I am having my exhaust temp gauge installed this week. They are removing the manifold to drill the hole for the probe, so I can direct them to install it either pre or post turbo. I have read the posts about it, and it seems that there is only a slight chance the probe could come loose and drop into the turbo.

Does anyone on this list have any actual experience with a probe coming loose or falling into their turbo? If not, I'm going to instruct the mechanic to install it pre-turbo. On the other hand, if there are people out there who can tell me "yes, it happened to me" how do you believe it occurred? What could be done to avoid that in the future?

Finally, can anyone give me some insight on the installation process? Although I have hired a mechanic to do the install, I like to do my own homework and work together to make sure things are done correctly. From what I have read, the tip of the probe is supposed to be dead center in the manifold. Other than that, I don't really know much about it.

Thanks,

Mike
Mike B.
'82 Diesel Westy

Reply #1August 31, 2009, 06:34:27 pm

theman53

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Re: Exhaust Temp Gauge Positioning
« Reply #1 on: August 31, 2009, 06:34:27 pm »
put it right in the middle of the manifold BEFORE the turbo. Right were all the cylinders empty into the turbo. After the turbo will give you cooler readings as the turbo itself will take some of the heat out. The gauge is supposed to read EGT so you don't melt your engine and you won't get that critical reading post turbo. Buy the aircraft spruce probe and you won't have any problems. I haven't heard of anyone having any problems with one of those and they are affordable....good enough for planes they have to be good enough for VWs. Here is the site.
The probe part # is 10-01478.  Here's a link:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/micro8egt.php

Here's a thread with the Westach gauges:

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=4785.15

The round face gauge that fits a standard pod is the 2C2-1 gauge (not to be confused with the 2C2) and must be special ordered from Aircraft Spruce or directly from www.Westach.com.
Here is a picture of the guage mentioned

Reply #2September 06, 2009, 03:25:03 pm

daydayhalge

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Exhaust Temp Gauge Positioning
« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2009, 03:25:03 pm »
Just do it the way I outlined, it makes everything easier.  Instead of having to worry about a hose adapter youre putting the thermo sensor for the gauge cluster right by the top radiator hose.  That B/D Temp sensor does not control anything to do with engine operating temperature all it does is physically tell you how hot/cold your engine is via your gauge cluster.  Wiring the fan relay negative side to the C101 Slot 7 wires it directly into the ECU which uses the coolant temperature sensor on the BLOCK to determine when to turn the fan on/off.  No ghetto adapter, just simplicity in action.  The way I see it is, if the engine doesnt come from the factory with a bunch of sensors jammed in a radiator hose why make it that way now?  Simplicity always wins.

Plus...its about 30 cheaper because you dont need to buy the radiator hose adapter

Reply #3September 07, 2009, 12:49:50 am

rabbitman

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Re: Exhaust Temp Gauge Positioning
« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2009, 12:49:50 am »
Just do it the way I outlined, it makes everything easier.  Instead of having to worry about a hose adapter youre putting the thermo sensor for the gauge cluster right by the top radiator hose.  That B/D Temp sensor does not control anything to do with engine operating temperature all it does is physically tell you how hot/cold your engine is via your gauge cluster.  Wiring the fan relay negative side to the C101 Slot 7 wires it directly into the ECU which uses the coolant temperature sensor on the BLOCK to determine when to turn the fan on/off.  No ghetto adapter, just simplicity in action.  The way I see it is, if the engine doesnt come from the factory with a bunch of sensors jammed in a radiator hose why make it that way now?  Simplicity always wins.

Plus...its about 30 cheaper because you dont need to buy the radiator hose adapter

um......I think you posted in the wrong topic. :-\
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN