kaputtwagen 1982 rabbit AAZ swap/build

[jack's lack]

Thanks guys. I had the 3 notch that came with the motor so I swapped it out for that. Took about 6 hours to do.
That was a great save Andrew as soon as you mentioned it I noticed the difference.

Was this a spare HG or you reused a previously installed HG?

previously installed. It came with the engine. All the black coating had flaked off. It is metal though. I thought they were reusable. Also I only torqued the ARP studs to 80 ft. Lbs.
Is is not sealing?
Where can I get a one notch aaz headgasket?
I saw Myke W has a 2 notch at least that is closer.

[theman53]

I got my 1 notch metal from Myke. I don't know why he doesn't list them. It did take longer for it to come in but he can get them.

[GEE-BEE]

VWMOTORS on ebay has them , Just email Thomas..

GB

[jack's lack]

The metal head gaskets aren't reusable.  The rubber valve cover ones are though.     

sounds like we have diagnosed my problem.
I guess this also means I can't return that TDI gasket huh?
I should have it down to 4 or 5 hours for a headgasket change this time

[lord_verminaard]

Don't feel bad.  I've done the Wife's car twice now too.   

Love my lift pump.  No priming needed. 

It should run pretty good on first start-up, if everything is kosher. 

Brendan

[jack's lack]

I got the one notch headgasket from Myke W in the engine today.
I discovered that the timing belt had skipped a few notches on the crank pulley.
I vaguely recall an instance when I forgot I had left the socket wrench on the crank bolt and turned the key. A true well there's your problem moment for sure .

Anyway with the new headgasket and proper timing it fired right up.
I took it out and wow it is fast. Also apparently the vacuum pump on my 1.6 was not working cause damn I have some power assisted brakes now.
I need to back the screw out on the wastegate soon. At 3/4 pedal it is making 25psi in a matter of seconds, and if I floor it it pegs the boost gauge at 30.
This is waaay too much for the k14, but I guess it is proof that the Giles pump, head port, PD intake and exhaust are producing the desired effect.
btw I never saw EGT's above 1200, but I didn't sustain boost above 10psi for more than a few seconds. This is good news since the intercooler will have to wait until the summer.

I went roids style and threw the air filter in the rain tray. It really does fit well in there, but damn it is LOUD. I think it may make me crazy.

I'll try and snap some pics this weekend. for now I am going to run a few errands with it this week, check for leaks and enjoy the jet noise coming from my intake.

Thanks again to everyone for your help.

Cheers,
Ryan

[NintendoKD]

I can't wait to hear that sound  That is what I am after a diesel that sounds like a jet engine.

[Syncroincity]

WOOT! Congrats, mate!   Happy new year, and happy motoring!!

[jack's lack]

Here is a photo of how it looks right now.
It has been pretty solid, the fuel return line sprung a leak, but I just cut off the damaged piece and reconnected it.

The turbo to intake piping is only temporary, until I get an intercooler that fits

I need to come up with a plan for what to do with the breather on the hockey puck, cause right now it is spitting oil on my valve cover, also I don't want it to suck up anything nasty. What have you guys that are not running a stock intake done about this? I don't have fabrication skills so welding a bung onto my intake and connecting it there isn't a cheap and easy option.

I backed the wastegate screw out 3/4 of a turn, and it works, but I can't build above 15psi, and the EGT's build pretty quickly. I am going to get a boost controller, and hopefully find an intercooler that will fit pretty soon.

It pulls pretty hard, and clutch slip is becoming an apparent issue. I reused the clutch I had on the 1.6 with it. It had the 16v pressure plate and an 8lb flywheel. The LWFW is a bit tricky because with too little pedal it will hesitate or stall, and with too much it will boost up and launch, and the window between the two is quite small. When I received the engine the flywheel was bolted directly to the crank. I assume this is for the 02A, because on my setup the pressure plate bolts to the crank? I am looking for a recommendation for a good setup for the AAZ/020 combo that can hold this kind of torque, but will be pleasant for a daily driver

One more question for people who have done this swap. How do I get a water temperature reading? The sensor on the neck for the top radiator hose has 4 wires. I have tried all of them and none have made my needle move. Am I going to have to swap the neck off of my 1.6?

[NintendoKD]

the air filter assy. looks like it was really easy to put on   Looks awesome, hope mine turns out half as nice.

[GEE-BEE]

Aircraftspruce.com has the blue hose in 1/2 , 5/8 and 3/4 I.D for the breather

Search: silicone hose

I think if you relocated the fuel filter to the rh front fender and used a stock AAZ  intake tube problem solved.

Iam going to use the stock airfilter inlet duct to a K&N Filter assy ( 2.5 ) i.d. ( Model RB-0720 )

I have a extra assy if you need one, 35.00

Those four silicone elbows and clamp's werent cheap either .


Can you shoot me a pic of your hardline to heater valve where it connects

MY AAZ HARDLINE ( COOLANT) IS 3/4 O.D. AND MY OUTLET IS 7/8 O.D.?  IS YOURS THE SAME ?

[email protected]

[jack's lack]

yeah, the air filter was as easy as it gets, I just marked it with a sharpie and went at it with a hole saw. I cut up an old piece of rubber hose and lined the hole with it for good measure. Plenty of cold air in there, but I'm serious it is mind-numbing how noisy it is. I don't know if I am going to leave it that way. I was thinking I would throw that silicone 45º in there after I got the FMIC in just to get it a little further away from any water that may drip through the cowl.

GB, yeah that silicone is not cheap, those are the pieces I am going to use for the intercooler piping, it is just a rig I threw together with what I had. I am just going to sell off any extras I have when I am finally happy with the setup.
I have the stock intake hose, I was just hoping to improve upon it, especially since an open dual cone filter in the engine compartment would be sucking hot air.
I do recall there being a bit of a fight with the hardline to heater. I think my hose is quite old and pliable so I just forced it over the AAZ Hardline. I will try and get a picture for you anyway, but I don't think it is a permanent solution.

[GEE-BEE]

I have some silicone hose reducers on there: 4 inches long 3/4 to 7/8 or 3/4 to 1' i.d.
Hardline coolant is 3/4 I.d.

let me know and I will get one in the mail.

They will be a option on the aaz Hose engine kit

let me know..

GB

[NintendoKD]

I'm eventually going to need that in my build, I'm paying very close attention to this thread, lots of good Ideas do's and don'ts.  Thanks guys.

Kevin

[jack's lack]

I got this one off of ebay. The core dimensions are 20" x 6" x 3".
I had to present my thesis yesterday. I have been working around the clock on it. It went well, but I still have a ton to do.
Anyway I decided to take a relaxing day and work on the rabbit.


Here it is bolted in place,


and with all the piping hooked up. I put a 45º on the intake and got the filter further up into the corner of the rain tray.
The radiator actually fit on the stock mounts behind it.


Here is the piping going into the intercooler,


and from the front.

You can see it through the grille. Maybe I should paint it black so it sleeps.

I swapped the neck for the top radiator hose from my old 1.6D over, and now I have a working temperature gauge. This is especially good since I just put a huge obstruction in front of my radiator.  I also installed the heater hose that GEE BEE hooked me up with. I am going to take it out and hit the highway with it, but driving it around town I noticed a drop in EGT's

Next up clutch.