One step forward....two steps back!!!

[Mikeyworks]

Well, I measured my rod bearing caps the other night and based on my trusty Bentley, I needed the standard sized bearings. So, I hopped onto the Impex FAP website to get my parts.

They came in today and I crawled under the Caddy tonight after putting my daughter down for bed and was eagerly anticipating getting them in.  Well, #3 went in fine, #2 went in fine and I went to tighten them down...and my heart sank.  

It seems that while I measured the bearing caps, I did not actually measure the crank journals like I thought I did. So, I pulled the trusty caliper back out and sure enough. Crank journal for cyl #2 is 0.5 mm smaller than the crank journal for cyl #3.  While crank journal on cyl #2 still appears polished, it's not as polished as that on cyl #3, evidence of the wear that the engine experienced after the bearing spun.

Now, its on to swapping out cranks.  I have another crank from one of my 1.6NA blocks here, and I spent a few minutes and pulled that one out. It's the same part as the TD crank correct?

I'm going to load up ETKA on my workhorse machine tomorrow and pull up some part numbers, but if you guys can help me out I would appreciate it.  I know I need the stretch bolts for the drive plate and likely for the end caps, but does anybody know those part numbers?  How many seals do I need to replace?

I'll also be replacing my main bearings since I am pretty sure that I need to when I get in there.  While I have it apart, it would be stupid of me not to, right?

Wish me luck, and please help me along where you can. I am looking at a pretty daunting task here.  It's more than what I have done before on one of these things.

Thanks all.

Mikey

[DieselsRcool]

My understanding is that NA cranks are different as far as flame hardened journals and a different front key type. It will fit your TD but is not as durable. You will also need to use the front timing gear off the NA.

Larry

[Mikeyworks]

....so my NA crank will work, but I should use my TD crank....?

Why would they change the key type for the crank gear?

I suppose I pull pull the TD crank and get it honed by the local machine shop.

Mikey

[type53b_gtd]

No, the 1.6 NA and TD cranks are the same.  There's no difference in the timing gear, just the presence of the vibration damper on the TD, which bolts to the timing gear.

Get your NA crank checked out closely, swap it in and you should be golden.

Drew

[type53b_gtd]

Darned antique stuff!  Yes, it does look like the NA cranks prior to '84 used a woodroof key and different timing gear, although the replacement part specified uses the TD style gear.

I guess then if the NA crank has the same style timing gear as the TD crank, use it without worry.  If it has woodruff key, then you can either swap over the timing gear along with the crank and worry about whether the crank is up to the task (I'm not sure I would) or get the TD crank reground.

Drew

[DieselsRcool]

Here's an old thread with some info.

http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=4037&t=642

[Mikeyworks]

Well, I'm getting up bright and early tomorrow morning and I will start pulling parts off the Caddy engine.  Before I get too far, I will determine which crank I have on the TD engine vs. the crank I have on my NA block.

From what I have been able to determine from the history of this engine, it's from an '86 TD Jetta so even the TD is not all that new of an engine (not a later 80's or 90's).  That may play into my favor.

I will put this back together properly.  I will drop the tranny and get to use the new toy my mother-in-law got me for my birthday (click here).

I don't really want to pull the whole engine and re-do it right now...and neither does the boss/accountant/wife!!!!  I think her vote wins out, even when I rationalize it to her. I will do a better job in about a year or two after I have gotten a couple of promotions at work (i.e., more $$$$).

Thanks for all the help thus far.

Can anyone help with what seals I need to replace while doing the crank?  Anyone have part numbers to help?  Like I said, I will load up and fire up ETKA tonight to look there, but since you're the experts I trust your opinion. Also, which bolts are TTY/stretch and should be replaced?


Thanks!!!!


Mikey

[Mikeyworks]

I will do some assessment in the morning to see what I can and cannot do.

As I said before, I'd rather not take it out of the car...but if I have to, I will....then again, it may just be easier to do it that way. I'll have to get the engine stand back from my best friend who's adapted it to be an impromptu Beetle chassis rotisserie.

Mikey

[type53b_gtd]

Removing the transaxle is childs play once you've done a few of them.  The flywheel is notched to allow the CV flanges to clear (engine TDC,) and the 90 mm CVs don't interfere that much anyways.

Lower the engine/transmission down on the driver's side as far as you can without disconnecting the exhaust - it helps immensely.

Drew

[Mikeyworks]

Drew,

Thanks for the comments...

not goood...


Mikey

[Mikeyworks]

Well, as far as the crank goes:



DAMN!!!!!

I'm going to continue to take it out...because that crank can't stay in there in it's present form...but I now think I will get it ground/honed down to the 3rd undersize (~0.75mm which I will reference against the Bentley).

I did notice that there's no dampner like you guys have described....how odd??!??!!?

Time to pull the tranny off.

Mikey

[Mikeyworks]

Now, I remember all the hoopla about the crank gear failure from the Woodruff Key giving out. Is that why the notch was used in the later models?

I still plan to put the NA crank in there, with the NA timing gear, v-belt pulleys and everything that came off it back on....then the TD crank goes to the machine shop, gets ground down to either .5 or .75 mm undersize depending on the condition of the journal on #2. I will then replace the crank back to the TD crank with the appropriate bearings when I redo the motor.

Mikey