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MK2 Heater core replacement! w/AC! & Heater core bypass!

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jtanguay:

--- Quote from: truckoSaurus08 on August 11, 2009, 07:51:12 pm ---I just tore the whole dash out. wish i would have known about this little trick sooner. That strap must be the giant zip tie thing on the evaporator box. Right?
I remember having trouble with those dang speed nuts.

--- End quote ---

yea the strap is pretty big :)

i forgot to give caveman props for giving me tips on how to git r done :) i probably would have cried if the whole dash had to come out, although its not as bad as it seems (its worse! lol)

that heater core bypass is my new best fwend.  ::) ;D no more heat bleed into my cool a/c and it just puts less stress on the heater core when the heater core really doesn't need to be used... for the win!!!

VW_Commuter:
FYI, I just received my vacuum solenoid described in this FAQ by jtanguay and it requires a special electrical plug.  I found one on Amazon but it probably can be found from many different sources.  Here is the link, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RPYVT8/ref=oss_product, for the one I purchased (it was the cheapest I could find and was a complete pigtail assembly).

honda_is_the_best:
is the MK2 dash harder to pull than an mk3? because i didnt find a mk3 dash all that hard to pull.

now, if you guys want a challenge, change the heater core on a mid 80s toyota pickup.. you end up with a bed full of dash pieces when you get to the actual heater core. it takes literally like 6 hours, iirc..

JBG3:
thanks for this thread!

I went the other route and pulled the whole dash out, but I had additional issues to resolve as well.

I was going to mention that instead of foam, what also works great if you have some, is stair treading on both sides-



Added benefit for me was that the treading had a safety stripe, so I now have a racing stripe inside my climate control.

Also, I had an additional problem in that my cable control had moved underneath, if you flip the control vent box upside down, there is a zip tie controlling the cable connection location for the door movement.  On mine it had moved, and the door would not fully redirect, ending with about a 1.5 inch gap either way.  I cut the zip tie, and moved where it grabbed the cable sheathing, so that at either end of the control level, the door actually redirected fully.

damac:
anybody have results for this setup long term?  found by accident searching google and never thought of such a thing.  i have a couple golfs i am fixing to get rid of so i think i will leave those stock.  ac is doing pretty good.

but for my own car if i can give the ac any help on those 100 degree days it seems like a no brainer.

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