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Author Topic: Floor rust  (Read 3064 times)

May 04, 2009, 07:25:35 pm

rabbitman

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Floor rust
« on: May 04, 2009, 07:25:35 pm »
A couple days ago I went through some deep water, now my floors are soaked. Anyways I discovered the drivers side left seat rail is about to fall out on the ground :( . There is very little rust anywere so I don't know how it could've gotten so bad.
Is there an easy fix for this? I'm not a body man so I'm rather ignorant about this.
I have a parts rabbit so would it work to swap in the floor from the other car assuming it's not rusted? Or should I just cut the rust out and weld in a piece of sheet metal? I'll post pics when I get my hands on a camera. Thanks


'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #1May 04, 2009, 07:37:34 pm

burn_your_money

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Floor rust
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2009, 07:37:34 pm »
If you do decide to cut out the seat rail, make 100% sure that it's in the right spot before you weld it in place. It'd be a pain to not be able to put the seat back in afterwards
Tyler

Reply #2May 04, 2009, 08:16:40 pm

rabbitman

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Floor rust
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2009, 08:16:40 pm »
Quote
If you do decide to cut out the seat rail, make 100% sure that it's in the right spot before you weld it in place. It'd be a pain to not be able to put the seat back in afterwards.


Thanks I never thought of that. :)
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #3May 04, 2009, 09:50:41 pm

theman53

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Floor rust
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2009, 09:50:41 pm »
:evil:  :evil:  :evil:  :evil:  :evil:  :evil:
 :x  :x  :x  :x  :x
I absolutely hate body work, but I am getting better at it. I will help you here. In my signature is my so called build. In the last couple of posts I show you why my TD isn't in the car. I am welding all new to it. I have the exact spot go bad as yours did and I didn't want to cut all of it out so I made several peices and welded behind the seat rail. I didn't want to trust my measure so you can put the seat in once it is tacked up. Look at the pics and ask me if you have any ?s about it.

Here is mostly what I learned.
It is easy to do it, harder to decide what to keep and what to cut.
Galvanize is poisonous and can be combated with drinking milk and grinding a little off of where you are going to weld.
Alot of paper/cardboard is good to mock up sizes and fittment so you don't mess it up with the sheetmetal.
Pipe, scaffolding, 2x4s and 4x4s make excellent hillbilly sheetmetal brakes  :lol:
Find a sheetmetal/HVAC type place and they will probably give you the scrap, but a place like TSC wants 48.00 around my house for a 24"x48" piece.

Reply #4May 05, 2009, 04:58:19 pm

smutts

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Floor rust
« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2009, 04:58:19 pm »
Quote
Galvanize is poisonous and can be combated with drinking milk
:)
That is something I have not heard for years, galvyflu, and those magic green fumes. :wink:

Reply #5May 23, 2009, 10:28:20 am

dieselherb1

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Re: Floor rust
« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2009, 10:28:20 am »
I have several caddies that need varies of floor metal replaced-patched. I have one the whole floor from the pass. feet to the shift tunnel to the cab back over to the and including the sill(under the door) has to be replaced. I cut that area out of two door Rabbit, hope to make it fit. I use metal from a Passat or Jetta hood for patches. We hit a deer a year down here so I keep the replaced(damaged) parts. Hood seems thicker than original floor metal. Trying to rebuild 5 caddies, maybe 2 more.
Herb

Reply #6May 29, 2009, 09:34:21 am

ChrisUplith

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Floor rust
« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2009, 09:34:21 am »
I have found the floor exercises cause me more pain but I havent had surgery yet...

Reply #7May 29, 2009, 02:12:43 pm

macka

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Re: Floor rust
« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2009, 02:12:43 pm »
Ahh the dreaded side dump hole. If you are going to use galvanised, clean it before you get it welded. The easiest way is to brush the edges with muriatic acid (don't inhale the fumes, in fact wear a mask), then immerse it in a water bath and then dry it. Before you hack out the floor, take a set square and mark the floor with lines running along the rail length (use the inside line) on to the good metal, then mark the front and rear edges on the good metal for easier alignment. I like cereal box cardboard for templates, and you can use an exacto knife for the fine shaping. After you have welded your part in, hit the welds with a wire wheel or brush to get rid of the scale, and hit it with self etching primer, to help prevent rust (do both sides). You'll have to align your rail and tack it, then check for fit and movement of the seat. A little trick we do is get the lower seat half from a donor car, put the loose bracket on it, then tack it in place. The we chack with the real seat, and do a finishing pass. Then we wire wheel the weld, cover the top and sides of the rail with tape, then prime and paint it. It takes about 4 hours to do properly, not including the paint.
Quote from: Vincent Walden
I do know that I drive torque,  while listening to my friends prattle on about horsepower.

Reply #8May 31, 2009, 09:21:11 am

theman53

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Re: Floor rust
« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2009, 09:21:11 am »
I am using galvanized. I also sell 3M and have always loved the scotch brite and it works perfectly to eat the galv off where you are welding. Just take it on your right angle grinder and I use the 1/4 turn roloc or type R button with the 3M scotch brite about 1/2" all around the weld area. Works just fine. I need to go out and finish the weld on mine now I have just a little more to go and then the floor will be done.

Reply #9July 01, 2009, 09:52:38 pm

Dean Erickson

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Re: Floor rust
« Reply #9 on: July 01, 2009, 09:52:38 pm »
I use roofing tar on the bottom it will keep the rust from coming back.

 

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