Head Swap, No Start, Need HELP

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

theman53, hard to tell from the pic what you did to it. Did you mean to cut 4 flutes with a Dremel cutoff disk to make it work like a tap? The flutes provide chip clearance and works well as a pseudo tap.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

I pulled the head off today.  I am thinking I may have jumped the gun.  I completely drained the coolant, to include removing the thermostat and there wasn't any oil in the coolant.  I drained the oil and there was no coolant in the oil.  I can't understand the loss of oil.  When I checked the stick I did see a few tiny drops of coolant but I guess I would see that after R2'ing the head.  Not installing the main wire to the glow plugs is what I am presuming caused my no-start.  I guess if I hooked up the wire and tried again and it started, I could have shut it down a minute later and checked the stick to see if it was milky to determine if I was getting coolant in the oil.

Anyway, the head is already off.  Made a set (4) of guide studs like you suggested and tommorow or the next day I will begin the reinstallation.  I also went with a 3 notch gasket instead of the 2 just in case it was a sealing problem with the head, maybe the thicker gasket would help.

Thanks for the help

Cylinder head pressure testing:
"To pressure test a head, all the coolant passages are blocked off and air is injected into the water jacket. The head is then submerged in water. Air bubbles can be seen coming from the crack."

I am curious how over 1 gallon of oil just disappeared from the dip stick? Is it possible you were looking for black oil when clean oil was actually on the stick and you didn't "see" it?

[theman53]

I just cut one "flute" in it with a 4.5" cut off wheel. It works well enough for me as I usually take the brake cleaner/air hose in one hand and that bolt in the other in and out of the hole with just hand turning and usually by the second or third time it is clean. The bolt is almost full length so it is easy to get it back out and aligns the gasket just as if the real bolts were in place. You have to lift the head higher but in my jetta I didn't have any problems with clearances and I had both manifolds on...it was an NA though.

[SolarSteve]

The first time I R2'ed the head (a year ago) it had a 3 notch gasket.  I measured the piston protusion and determined a 2 noctch gasket would work.  I intalled it and everything was fine.  I did not notice a difference in any aspect.  It started the same, summer or winter, no noticable increase in HP or MPG.  When I re-ordered my gasket and bolts yesterday, the guy on the phone at Parts Place suggested to use a 3 notch gasket due to the possible fluid leakage.  He explained that a thicker gasket would seal better...

I always spray the sealing surface of the block and both sides of the gasket with a spray head gasket sealant.  I forget which company makes it, but you can get it at any auto parts store.  Its a blue can with white lettering and the spray is red and sticky.  I think it helps keep the gasket on the block while you are trying to place the head on it.

[SolarSteve]

Here's a pic of what theman53 is talking about... 1" sections of your old headbolts with a flat cut in them for a screwdriver make great alignment pins for reinstalling the head:



That's a gasser engine in the picture, but a vdub is a vdub.  Once the head is in place you use a screwdriver to loosen them and a magnet to remove 'em... easy peasy.

Vincet and theman53

Thank you both for the idea about cutting the old head bolts to us as guides.  I made 4 of them the other day.  I used 2 today when I reinstalled the head and it went on GREAT!!  1 Shot, first time no screwing around trying to keep the gasket in place, get the bolts holes lined up and holding it all while trying to grab a bolt and get it started!  THANK YOU BOTH!!

It's almost all put back together.  I spent about an hour pulling my hair out while checking the timing.  Every time I have done this (3 times now) the timing has been right on and I didn't have to mess with it.  Today I was .010" off and couldn't figure out why.  After repeating the proceedure about 10 times, cursing, kicking, checking that TDC the cam lock plate and the IP lock plug all lined up it still was .010" off.  Finally, I relalized that I left the cold strat handle pulled out the last time I tried to start it.  Push it in, timing dropped down to .039"!

Tomorrow morning after about 1 hour more of work I should be able to try to start it again.  I will post my results.