Author Topic: Possible to change timing idler / tensioner without messing up the timing?  (Read 2447 times)

June 23, 2009, 08:28:06 pm

Pre95

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So the 1.6 has a new timing belt, but unfortunately the tensioner was not replaced. I figured with some clamps I can fix the timing belt to the cam & IP pulleys so they dont come loose and swap the tensioner without having to re-time the car. Sound feasible or am I kidding myself?
81 Rabbit Diesel - 250k and climbing :)

Reply #1June 23, 2009, 08:44:59 pm

rabbitman

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I think it's doable, just put it at TDC so you can sort of check the timing when your done. Make sure you turn the crank at least two whole turn with a wrench when your done.

Since it's a rabbit I'm sure you'll have to jack the engine up to get the tensioner off, or you can pull it out as far as possible and reach behind it with vice grips and take the stud out of the head. Good luck :D
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #2June 23, 2009, 08:59:22 pm

Pre95

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Since it's a rabbit I'm sure you'll have to jack the engine up to get the tensioner off, or you can pull it out as far as possible and reach behind it with vice grips and take the stud out of the head. Good luck :D

Thats would probably explain why the tensioner was not replaced. I ordered a new set of motor mounts this evening so it looks like I have a saturday project coming my way... thanks for the help! Me thinks you'll be chatting me through a few of my headaches in the future  8)
81 Rabbit Diesel - 250k and climbing :)

Reply #3June 23, 2009, 10:01:10 pm

sprstu

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You should be able to replace all the mounts one at a time so you dont have to take the engine out or remove the axles from the trans. All youd have to do is make sure you are supporting the engine somehow, be it from under or top, and you can take them out one at a time. But once youve gone that far taking the extra 2 hrs to move the engine in and out may save some serious headache time.

But back to your original question; buy some sort of silver pen or white out so you can mark the belt and the pulleys. That way even after you have clamped it you will be able to see right away if you have moved it. The truth is that once you tighten a t-belt you really arnt supposed to loosen it and put it back on. When you take the tension off the system youre supposed to replace the belt. I guess if you had just a few thousand miles you nay be ok, but if youre up in the 30K+ you may want to just invest the $16-30 in a new belt just to be 100% sure.
Mk1 caddy TD, mk4 Golf Tdi

Reply #4June 24, 2009, 12:58:47 am

rabbitman

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Changing the mounts one at a time will work fine, much simpler than removing the whole engine.

The passenger mount is a pain though, it is the hardest to change and is subject to the most wear.

The IP must be removed and the IP bracket unbolted from the engine, the engine mount is then cut out of the bracket and a new one pressed in. I think the bentley will show you how.
After you bolt the bracket back in the pulley's will probably not be aligned right and the belt won't track straight. A search will bring up what me and some other people did to fix it.
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #5June 25, 2009, 10:55:52 am

88jetta350

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 >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
PS Engine Mount

 >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(

One of the few reasons to hate a MKI