Fixmyvw.com

Author Topic: distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?  (Read 9522 times)

June 10, 2009, 11:58:24 am

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
« on: June 10, 2009, 11:58:24 am »
My IP is leaking pretty bad and it appears to be leaking from the distributor head o-ring. Has anyone replaced that o-ring with the IP in the car? I have A/C and to remove the IP it looks like the compressor has to come off first to allow access to one of the two IP engine block mount bolts- a lot more work than I'd like.



Reply #1June 10, 2009, 01:48:37 pm

Zulfiqar

  • Veteran

  • Offline
  • ***

  • 254
Re: distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2009, 01:48:37 pm »
Ive got the same setup - you can remove the pump without unmounting the compressor its just 4 bolts 3 pulley side and 1 on the back side, unbolt the pump pulley slap a gear puller on it and remove.

Its risky business working the high pressure pump head while on the car
Diesel IS the future

Reply #2June 10, 2009, 02:08:03 pm

myke_w

  • Veteran

  • Offline
  • ***

  • 1099
Re: distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
« Reply #2 on: June 10, 2009, 02:08:03 pm »
You can do it but it's tricky. I'd also suggest removing the pump unless you know about the internals of IP's and can put it back together if it falls apart on you.

Be certain to turn the pump over by hand several times after you are done to verify you got it right.

Contact me for hard to find for idi and tdi parts


Reply #3June 10, 2009, 03:04:14 pm

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
Re: distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
« Reply #3 on: June 10, 2009, 03:04:14 pm »
I've got the o-ring in- a viton one! Did it without removing the pump. It was tight and I had to grind down a T-30 bit 3/8 drive in order for the bit to fit square on the 4 torx bolts. Had a close call when I used the T-30 on the Hex allen head bolt for the plate bracket thinking they were all the same! Luckily it came off without stripping! Only found out it was hex when I couldn't get the T-30 bit off the allen head after it came out! I kept things clean as best as I can and took some pics which I'll post later (in a day or 2). I turned the engine over at the crankshaft bolt and it turned without resistance so that's good sign. Still have to put the injector lines and other stuff back and see if the leak is taken care of. Wish me luck and thanks all for the tips!
« Last Edit: June 10, 2009, 03:06:13 pm by 92EcoDiesel Jetta »

Reply #4June 10, 2009, 06:31:22 pm

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
Re: distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2009, 06:31:22 pm »
Just came back from a test drive and the leak is no more! Yeah! However, the miss is still there. If I pull the cold start lever out a little, it smooths out the idle a bit. What should I try next? Rebuild the injectors? What should the compression be for my engine? I checked it a few weeks ago and it was  450, 475, 400, 475. Are they acceptable?

I don't see anywetness on the head gasket anymore so what thought was a coolant leak was diesel leak from the IP spraying back and not coolant. I will keep a close watch on coolant level just to be sure.

Reply #5June 10, 2009, 06:42:20 pm

rabbitman

  • Veteran

  • Offline
  • ***

  • 2787
Re: distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
« Reply #5 on: June 10, 2009, 06:42:20 pm »
However, the miss is still there. If I pull the cold start lever out a little, it smooths out the idle a bit. What should I try next? Rebuild the injectors? What should the compression be for my engine? I checked it a few weeks ago and it was  450, 475, 400, 475. Are they acceptable?


Your compression is good, minimum is 398psi, some on this board have less than that.

For the miss it sounds like your timing is a bit retarded. Rebuilt injectors aren't a bad idea anyways, IIRC the recommended life span is 60,000 miles.
'82 Rabbit, I put on a euro vnt-15, 2.25" DP, 2.5" exhaust, the result.....it whistled.

I removed the turbo, made a toilet bowl 2.5" DP, the result....it was deafening. Now it has a homemade muffler up front and a thrush in the rear, the result.....less loud.
Watch: AGENDA, GRINDING AMERICA DOWN

Reply #6June 10, 2009, 07:11:24 pm

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
Re: distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
« Reply #6 on: June 10, 2009, 07:11:24 pm »
I did check the IP timing with a dial indicator and it was spot on at 0.040".  Maybe I should check it again. I also had the injectors out and pop tested them for spray pattern and they all looked similar with the similar opening pressure. I didn't spend a lot of time on them just a quick check. I think the opening pressure was 1800 psi? The nozzle faces was pretty flat and not eroded down like a high mileage injector. What should the opening pressure be for the injectors? Damm, my Bently, which I ordered more than 3 weeks ago is still not here yet. I'm going to give that Amazon store a bad feedback- that's for sure!.

Reply #7June 11, 2009, 01:03:12 pm

arb

  • Guest
Re: distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
« Reply #7 on: June 11, 2009, 01:03:12 pm »
I did check the IP timing with a dial indicator and it was spot on at 0.040". 
Yours is a turbo ? Spec for a turbo is 1.00 mm = 0.0396" - others are down to 0.83 or so mm.

Reply #8June 11, 2009, 02:26:27 pm

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
Re: distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
« Reply #8 on: June 11, 2009, 02:26:27 pm »
For anyone attempting to replace the o-ring with the pump on the car, you must maintain pressure on the main plunger while you loosen the bolts that hold the distributor head in place.  Otherwise you run the very serious risk of destroying the pump.

Andrew

That is correct. An keeping things clean is also very important! The way I kept pressure on the main plunger was by backing the four T-30 torx bolts out just enough to expose the o-ring, then remove only one at a time to slip the o-ring over each T-30. That means at any given time there's always 3 T-30 in place.

Reply #9June 11, 2009, 02:29:08 pm

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
Re: distributor head o-ring, remove IP or in car?
« Reply #9 on: June 11, 2009, 02:29:08 pm »
I did check the IP timing with a dial indicator and it was spot on at 0.040". 
Yours is a turbo ? Spec for a turbo is 1.00 mm = 0.0396" - others are down to 0.83 or so mm.

Mine has a turbo but without fuel enrichment

Reply #10June 11, 2009, 02:30:18 pm

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
Here are some pics
« Reply #10 on: June 11, 2009, 02:30:18 pm »


This shows the rear IP mounting plate already removed. Note that 2 of the bolts on the plate are hex heads, not Torx. Use the right bit! Note also the delivery valves are capped to keep dirt out. The box wrench was used for leverage on a 1/4 drive ratchet driving a 3/8 drive T-30 bit to crack the bottom rear corner bolt. Make sure your bit is not cocked and fit square and seated all the way in the T-30.
« Last Edit: June 11, 2009, 11:45:53 pm by 92EcoDiesel Jetta »

Reply #11June 11, 2009, 02:57:24 pm

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
head pulled back just enough to expose o-ring
« Reply #11 on: June 11, 2009, 02:57:24 pm »


Solenoid valve removed and head taped up with duct tape to keep dirt away. Note the four T-30"s are backed out just enough to expose the o-ring, which has been lifted and cut. Use a sharp awl that is softer than the cast iron head to get the o-ring out, brass, aluminum, bone etc so you don't nick the o-ring grove. The old o-ring was stuck on the groove pretty good and I had to undo one T-30 at a time to "unwind" the o-ring off the groove.

Reply #12June 11, 2009, 03:02:49 pm

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
Old o-ring off and new Viton o-ring ready to go on
« Reply #12 on: June 11, 2009, 03:02:49 pm »

Old o-ring is off and new Viton o-ring ready to go on. Don't know if the pic show it, but this Viton o-ring is brown in color. I want to be able to run biodiesel and SVO so Viton is a good idea.

Reply #13June 11, 2009, 03:11:50 pm

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
Viton 0-ring sitting on the 4 T-30's
« Reply #13 on: June 11, 2009, 03:11:50 pm »


You can see the brown Viton 0-ring sitting on the front T-30 bolt. Grease it with Vaseline so it will slip over the duct tape and allow it to go into the pump body easier. Un-screw one T-30 at a time and let the o-ring fall into the groove, put the bolt back before doing the next one. I lifted the o-ring with a hook while unscrewing the T-30 because I didn't want to chance the sharp edges of the thread cutting the o-ring. Once the o-ring is seated in the groove, tighten each T-30 a bit at a time so the head goes in straight and square.
« Last Edit: June 11, 2009, 03:22:45 pm by 92EcoDiesel Jetta »

Reply #14June 11, 2009, 03:18:24 pm

92EcoDiesel Jetta

  • Guest
modified T-30 driver bit
« Reply #14 on: June 11, 2009, 03:18:24 pm »


I had to grind down the body of my 3/8 drive T-30 since it was interfering on the deliver valve threads. If your bit is smaller in diameter you may not have to grind it like I had to.

Hope these pics help someone who will be doing this job.