Author Topic: The GTD RETURNS! (Read 94757 times)

therabbittree · « **Reply #30 on:** January 31, 2006, 06:46:24 pm »

looks great joe..get it running soon !!! ...on another note ..total seal doesn't make any vw tdi rings...you send them your goetz factory ring set and they machine th etop ring fro the extra zero gap peiece..so if you do like blake did you still have th esame rings you used but total seal just mods the top ring for less leak down etc...
Later
deo

RabbitGTDguy · « **Reply #31 on:** January 31, 2006, 07:05:56 pm »

that i knew

just glad I left them the way they are...like i said. Crazy in spec, well within spec at 126k ...i'm very happy with that...

Thanks for the comps...

It'll be running in late march-early april...no rush as the GTD doesn't see winter weather and I'm takin my time ...still lots to do...

Joe

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #32 on:** February 01, 2006, 12:08:30 am »

Quote from: "RabbitGTDguy"

Wasn't feeling well today so I stayed home...ended up getting antzy though and thought I'd wrench downstairs for a while...got some stuff done:)

After a nice delay due to some tq differences between the intergrated rear main seal/carrier and the old style press in seal w/ paper gasket and carrier...got it installed, and the block/crank assembly onto the stand...

Also...can't beat the quality of OEM Goetze rings... I was impressed with the used ones and how much "in spec" they were even at 126k when I tore the motor down this fall...barely showed signs of use. Most impressed with the new units out of the box and now installed as well... glad I chose the OEM route instead of going Total Seal

Always start with good materials

Cleaning Gasket surface (night and day pic) prior to piston install...

Ready to install machined and coated pistons...

Tick tick tick...

Looks like the bottom end can be done by the end of the week! Wahoo!

On a seperate note. I had looked into performancecoatings.com before but after weighing it heavily, talking to SwainTech and even those that have put their stuff to the test, there was no substitute for having the right company with the right prep equipment and application/curing equipment to do it once and do it right. I've heard horror stories of even more hot spots and such from unevenly dispersed DIY coatings as well as wear issues, etc. Swain also took the time to explain that the DIY coatings aren't nearly the same formula as what they use. I didn't have any problems paying the money to have it done through them for the insurance...besides, they started it all in the first place!

Joe[/quotedude,,when i got a rear seal ,,they wanted 80+,,grab an old school seal carrier,,much cheaper,,and use a seal installer on the crank,,,,,,and get it right,,i used goetze rings,,they were modified by total seal,,,my worst ring gap was 17 thou,,figured it would be ok w/ total seals,,,i may have mine goin this week,,still have to add lift pump,guages,,finish moving supply+return lines,,fit rad+hoses,,battery 90 deg. mod,,shifter linkage,,boost control lines,and controller,boost tubing from turbo to intake,,water injection,,,,,wire up all the guages,,ive got some nice plastic+foam insulation,to complete a "shroud " onthe sides of the rad,,the stock paper deflectors have had it,,,,relocated fuelfilter to below right side "framerail",,looks good,,makin a partial rite side inner fender liner,,to protect belts too,,,,,,,lotta crap to do,,,only 2-3 hours a nite during week,,,,,,,if not this weekend maybe next week sometime,hey lemme know when uare ready for fireup,,i have a nice priming tool

RabbitGTDguy · « **Reply #33 on:** February 01, 2006, 06:41:18 am »

Thanks... good to hear there is another, this motor should be real tight

I used the old school carrier with a press in seal and paper gasket. I could have gotten the intergrated...found a good price on them actually, but already had all the parts for the old style. I didn't need a tool to install though, made my own

All worked out quite well...
On the primer, sound good...but i think I'm probably going to pop the lines and let the lift pump/electric assist pump i install prime the beast. What do you have? One of those ball thingys you attach to the pump supply line at the pump and squeeze to prime?
I'm lookin at March/April to have this in and running...many other things to do...

Joe

lord_verminaard · « **Reply #34 on:** February 01, 2006, 08:33:00 am »

Maybe I missed it, but what kind of pump are you using for the prime/lift pump? Do you have it wired in like an EFI pump to prime when the ignition is turned on? Thanks.

Looking really nice, I am jealous!

Brendan
84 Scirocco 8v
00 Camaro L36 M49

RabbitGTDguy · « **Reply #35 on:** February 01, 2006, 09:47:20 am »

I haven't decided on exactly "what" pump I want to use for the lift pump yet... I have several options. An inline low pressure FI pump from one of several CIS cars I have around. Also have access to the in-tank units as well...which could be a possibility. I also have considered the lift pump from a Dodge/Cummins motor as well that is made by Carter. All would be well suited for the job its just deciding which one I want to use. If I do go the VW route, I'll wire it just as it would be in a gas setting. Relay and all. Otherwise, it'll feed from the ignition contact on the pump solenoid. That part of "all the other stuff" once the motor is done

I also have a fuel cooler I'll be running on the return line as well.

Joe

hillfolk'r · « **Reply #36 on:** February 01, 2006, 11:16:10 pm »

use one from an isb cummins,,thats what i got,,,,should be able to get one for around 50 or so,,,i did a ton of 0504replacement campaigns at work,so i have a few spares,,um i think they flow like 72gph or 96 or something,,i dont remember offhand,but its plenty,i know ido get like 15 psi at the inj.pump inlet,nice,,,even on a normal diesel,use a lift pump,,my old 1.6 jetta td used to fallflat at the strip in3rd on up,,starving for fuel,,,couldnt feel it on the street though,its a good idea to assist any bosch ve witha lift pump,, ,,i got it set for key on,,but you could make it running only,by using an oilpsi switch ,,,, mine is "quick+dirty",mounted back near where the gasser pumpwould be,,idid plumb it with nice german hose+clamps though,,,the isb pump has 12mm(ithink) banjos,,the one igot is the "same" but has pipe threads,,i put 3/8 hose barbs on them,,i got my orig pump thru work at napa,,,they have like 6 different carter pumps avalable,,,the differences are mostly hose hookup differences,but they have some with more or less flow too,,,,but find one of those carters theyare fine,,,i maytry to use one for my water to air ic,,,,but if ido,,imayhave to use coolant for lubrication for the pump,,,,theyare a vane pump,,

RabbitGTDguy · « **Reply #37 on:** February 02, 2006, 06:46:04 am »

we'll see...lots of options...

RabbitGTDguy · « **Reply #38 on:** February 03, 2006, 10:07:25 am »

Forward Progress...the bottom end is pretty much done. Going to wait to put on the oil pan as I think I'm going to pick up a windage tray just to make things complete down there. Have to wait for some funds though...

Guess I'll start in on the port work on the head and manifolds and possibly some more pump work too this weekend as I find more ins and outs of the 4bt pump and where to tweak...

Joe

therabbittree · « **Reply #39 on:** February 03, 2006, 10:12:37 am »

looks nice..your keeping teh ac huh?..i guess the serp belt setup is the best route to go if your keeping teh ac..looks good..if my cut d valves work yoiu should try em hehe..later
Deo

RabbitGTDguy · « **Reply #40 on:** February 03, 2006, 10:36:50 am »

no, not keeping the A/C, the GTD never had A/C to begin with. The MK3 accessory bracket can be used with an alternator only by using a H20 pump serpentine belt and pulley which can be bought on the aftermarket or through the dealer for a fairly cheap price. I have no A/C or power steering...
I like the clean look of the serpentine setup and the less maintenence/ ease of changing the belt.

Joe

therabbittree · « **Reply #41 on:** February 03, 2006, 10:53:57 am »

yeah save a vr6 water pump pulley...it works good for that and its cheap..
later
deo

RabbitGTDguy · « **Reply #42 on:** February 03, 2006, 10:55:45 am »

its actually the euro non a/c version pulley for the 2.0 8v and its belt. The VR pulley doesn't line up the crank and is slightly different.

Joe

therabbittree · « **Reply #43 on:** February 09, 2006, 12:08:47 pm »

well joe i have updated my post about my tdi ..i have some pulley problems too..the part # you gave me is just the outer pulley..no hub or woodruff key part to bolt the pulley onto..argh gonna need to machine the tdi one now..so i have a $50 paper weight here..did your pulley from impex come with the hub?..they only show the pulley and a woodruff key as available..argh...?
any ideas?
thanks
Deo

RabbitGTDguy · « **Reply #44 on:** February 09, 2006, 12:30:24 pm »

the hub comes as a factory part from Bosch, there is no VW p/n for it. You could try a bosch supplier... I responded to your post and remarked the same thing and a couple of options. The p/n to begin with was for the pulley only...found the thread with the quote in it...

Quote

Here is what I pull up from ETKA on the AAZ injection pump pulley...
028 130 111F

Either way...
The hub should work just the same and non of the hubs for the adjustable pulleys have woodruffs cut in them....they are a tight "press fit" on the shaft... the AAZ pumps with the adjustable hubs were the same way. Thus the reason why when talking on TDIclub, etc. regarding injection pump overhaul, etc. VW notes that if the hub is removed the pump must be reindexed to the hub in order to set timing correctly. Now...there are several marks that you can use for reference on the TDI pump hub and the woodruff spot on the shaft will help align for initial injection pump timing anyways which is how I plan to setup mine up, etc. for timing reference and then checking against the gauge...

Joe