Author Topic: 1.6 Rebuild: Some Questions..  (Read 2536 times)

May 01, 2009, 06:28:04 pm

n0ftInc

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1.6 Rebuild: Some Questions..
« on: May 01, 2009, 06:28:04 pm »
Hello all,

I am looking to get my 1.6 on the road again after I blew a timing belt on the highway last summer. It doesn't have a whole lot of miles, but was going through some oil and now will need the head redone. I am planning on just re-doing the whole shabang.

Any input on some oem+ touches that would help and not cost an arm and a leg would be appreciated. I am trying for max mpgs since I drive a lot for work..no performance is needed.

I have lightened flywheels in my two Corrados and love them. I hear mixed thoughts on a na diesel..opinions?
steVo : '82 1.6 : '90 G60 : '93 SLC

Reply #1May 01, 2009, 07:15:51 pm

subsonic

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1.6 Rebuild: Some Questions..
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2009, 07:15:51 pm »
Is this a td or na? WHat do you have for a transmission in it, 4 or 5 spd?  WHats the code.
If you broke the t-belt chances are you will need new valves.  If that is the case, your already into it so do new valve guides and have the seats recut. Hand lap them in for a perfect fit.  I am assuming this is a mech block.  If not, change out the lifters if they are original, they have done their duty. Replace all the seals / gaskets when it goes back together. Use new head bolts. Measure correctly for piston projection and use the right head gasket. A aaz 1.9 head gasket will work and is a superior head gasket.
Are your injectors original? How many miles on them?  If you dont know, replace the nozzles and have the opening pressure (pop pressure) correctly set by someone who knows what they are doing.  You can try Duane from here on the forum, he's cheap and will get them done correctly.  New injector heat shields, buy 8.  new glow plugs.  Test the before they go in, even if they are new.  Search "Pimp and glowplugs".
You could gasket match the intakes while the head is off.  It will help a little and cost you next to nothing.
Lower end---is it tight?  Do you know what the compression was before the t-belt broke?  Inspect the bores, is there a lip at the top? how do the walls look? Everything still look good? Run it, hone and re-ring, or bore and new pistons.  All depends on condition.  If you end up pulling the engine, you should replace bearings-crank, conrod.  Pull the IM shaft while the engine is out and replace the IM shaft bearings, they always go bad when you can not get to them, in winter, when it's snowing :wink: .  If you are doing the IM bearings, go ahead and have the IM shaft turned to true it and cut some weight.  Not much of a performance gain but it will smooth things out and is very easy to do while it is out.
Oil and water pumps should be checked out carefully.  You may want to go new if the whole thing is apart.
RUn a cold air intake if you can.  It will get you a little more and is cheap.
Lighten the flywheel if it is out.
Hows the pump?  Any leakage or seeping?  Reseal.  You can do it or there are guys on here who can do it for you. I think libbbapa does them.
If you are after miles, research and run a higher ratio tranny, or do a 5th gear swap.  CHeck out sciroccogears for ratios and brokevw for 5th swap info.  Run a set of tires and rims to put your rpms in the best spot for your cruising speed.
Get the correct timing tools or get with someone who has them.  Set the timing correctly when you do the t-belt.  Do not wing it.
My drink is now empty so I am done typing.  I figure thats about plenty.  Someone else will probably have some other good info for you as well.
2009 Jetta TDI Loyal edition, 6-spd. 16V 2.0CR


1985 VW Golf 5-spd, 4-door, 1.6NA  Bought from orig. owner in Savannah with 42,000 miles.
"Making the jump NA to TD" slow but sure.

1980 VW Rabbit LS 5-spd, 4-door 1.6NA almost 450,000miles  RIP

Reply #2May 01, 2009, 07:23:23 pm

rallydiesel

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1.6 Rebuild: Some Questions..
« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2009, 07:23:23 pm »
I would highly recommend the rubber reusable valve cover gasket. It's not even funny how many times I have had the valve cover off for timing changes. There's also one for the oil pan but not as useful.

I'd get some ARP rod bolts just for the fact the stockers are stretch bolts and I like to take things apart and put them back together without having to buy new bolts each time. Same for the head studs.

Since you'll have the tranny out, you might as well drain it if not done for a while and fill with either Redline MTL/MT90 or GM Syncromesh.

With an NA, I would consider find a used exhaust header from a gas 8v for a little better flow.
2006 Jetta TDI - gtb1749v, Malone 2, Frank's Titan 2 cam, VR6 clutch....
1991 Jetta TD - sold :(
2001 Golf TDI - Son's
1981 Rabbit - BEW tdi swap project

"ONCE YOU GO CLACK, YOU NEVER GO BACK"

Reply #3May 01, 2009, 07:51:00 pm

n0ftInc

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1.6 Rebuild: Some Questions..
« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2009, 07:51:00 pm »
Thanks guys, I don't like cutting corners on anything.

What year can the rubber valve cover gasket be found on?

I have an ABA downpipe at my disposal, would this be choice? Do I have to run a spacer to fit around the firewall?

The transmission is a 4 speed and should still be in good shape. What is a good weight to turn a diesel flywheel down to? I run 10#ers on my other cars, but I think that might be a little too light.

What's a good OEM clutch upgrade? I hear people post about a 210mm from a 16v? ..info? I take it I would need the pressure plate as well.

I have a new pump that I traded a buddy for, so that part is all taken care of.

Injectors are on my list..prices? I just did new glowplugs last year..should I still be investing in new ones?
steVo : '82 1.6 : '90 G60 : '93 SLC

Reply #4May 01, 2009, 07:52:46 pm

n0ftInc

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1.6 Rebuild: Some Questions..
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2009, 07:52:46 pm »
Oh, and the engine is a NA 1.6..thanks!
steVo : '82 1.6 : '90 G60 : '93 SLC

Reply #5May 02, 2009, 07:51:08 am

n0ftInc

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1.6 Rebuild: Some Questions..
« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2009, 07:51:08 am »
Another quick question..
Block marked 16D = 11mm and 1.6D = 12mm

Ultimate fact or fiction?
steVo : '82 1.6 : '90 G60 : '93 SLC

Reply #6May 05, 2009, 08:35:27 am

arb

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1.6 Rebuild: Some Questions..
« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2009, 08:35:27 am »
I would get a turbo for it. Don't change the IP and you'll have an Eco Diesel. You will burn more of the fuel injected and have less smoke = more power = better mpg. While you are at it, do an 2" - 3" down pipe / exhaust system. Same results.

Reply #7May 05, 2009, 05:18:05 pm

54321chris

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1.6 Rebuild: Some Questions..
« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2009, 05:18:05 pm »
Thanks for a great couple of posts!  I'm thinking of buying a worn out 1.6td to replace my n/a, so all the build info you all can throw out there is helpful.

Reply #8May 05, 2009, 05:36:43 pm

8v-of-fury

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1.6 Rebuild: Some Questions..
« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2009, 05:36:43 pm »
Quote
While you are at it, do an 2" - 3" down pipe / exhaust system.


2.5" is pretty much the biggest you will need on an N/a as any bigger will just be adding unnecessary noise with no gains in power on an N/a engine. Plus 2.5" is a hell of a lot easier to work with than 3" or bigger LOL