In a Pickle/Pyro Install???

[ein bora]

Today I set out to install my new pre-turbo pyrometer on my 1.9 IDI. I've done my homework and wish to install it in the exhaust manifold just before the flange going to the turbo. Looking at it from the top and underneath there's no real easy way to get at this so I decided to take the turbo off and go from there. At this point I wasn't against taking the exhaust manifold off too in order to get this installed correctly. What I've found is that all the nuts and bolts of the turbo and exhaust manifold are all rusted on solid, and fearing breaking them off I've had to abandon the project for now. I've soaked the bolts with penetrating fluid but I've never really had any good luck with using such products, so other than heating up the bolts with a touch which I don't have I'm not sure how to proceed next?? I can see why some have chosen to install the probe post turbo as it sure is a lot easier.
Any advice or opinions appreciated. Thanks.

[flapjack]

how long did you let the oil soak in? Before taking apart my last car I sprayed the nuts with PB blaster once a day for a week. That may have been unnecessary, but I got the manifold off.

[flapjack]

edit double post

[allsierra123]

they are a pita two of my studs came out with mine. I have heard stories of some breaking them. Just use lots of PB blaster.

[truckinwagen]

also, even though it is an exhaust housing and it might not seem to need it, heat helps alot.

get the nut good and hot(maybe not quite red) and then spray your PBlaster on there, the heat helps break down the corrosion and PBlaster really works good when applied to a hot part.

just be sure to have a fire extinguisher in case you get overzealous with the heat and the PBlaster catches o fire(I wonder how I know this to be a hazard?)

[AndyL]

Pblaster used to be my favorite... But I found something gooder - SpraySolvo by chesterton (Loctite resells it as their own - for more $)
http://www.chesterton.com/ENU/Products/Pages/Product.aspx?ProductLine=TPD&Category=Maintenance+Specialties&ModelID=723723FG

My advice - find some, seems to work better than anything else especially on exhaust systems...

[rallydiesel]

You should have some replacement studs and bolts on hand. Get a torch, they're not expensive. Get a good drill and extracter bits. Get a couple cans of pb blaster. Get a grinder. You need to have contingency plans when dealing with seized/rusted exhaust studs and nuts. If you don't, don't even bother trying to get them off.

[dieselweasel]

Yes.  You need to have contingency plans.  Plan to do this project when you know you can be without the car for a couple days in case you run into problems.  And as stated above, get some more studs and nuts, as well as bolts for the turbo.

Penetrating oil definitely helps.  Run the engine to operating temperature then start the manifold removal.  Yes it will be hot but that will help get everything loose...wear long sleeves and gloves.  I often prefer air impact tools on seized fasteners over hand tools.  The impact helps break up the corrosion.  Yes the fastener may break but then chances are it would have broken anyway.  Hitting seized fasteners with a hammer before attempting removal will also help.  

When I installed my pyro the head was off anyway, but I removed the manifold to send the head to a machine shop.  I was surprised that nothing broke upon removal even though some of it was pretty rusted.

[ein bora]

Well job done - I'm pre turbo, but please don't ever ask me to do it again! once was enough.
Thanks for all the info.