I keep reading and hearing about people who, when they have to replace the water pump on a pre-1999 style block, do the job by only doing the half. I can understand if it was a gasser with AC where taking the timing belt off is no big deal. But why do people insist on doing it on a diesel. Unless you're going to also replace the timing belt at the same time, it really is not the proper way of doing it. So much more potential of engine damage if the belt isn't re-installed properly-like the taxi driver who thought he would be smart by doing it himself, didn't put the tensioner back the right way and destroyed his head. Even without air tools and on a car with AC it's much easier by taking the whole water pump off and replacing the seal against the block. I contend it's a bit tricky on an IDI motor to remove the 2 bolts under the IP but a bit of patience and a extension with a swivel will do the job. But the socket and extension on one of the bolts, hit it with a hammer to loosen it. I'm just kinda up in arms because while i was doing one on a 98 AHU Jetta, one of the other mechanics was doing a half on a 92 gasser Jetta. Well in the end he had to do the job twice because he scratched the face of the pump and it leaked as soon as the customer left the shop. In the end the job took longer than mine. Sorry about the rant but i've been shaking my head alot the last couple of days.
well i did mine half, but i was very meticulous, and took my time (plus it was out of the car, and i got a real neat metal/rubber gasket to go in
no leaks 600km so far :wink: except that the damn heater core blew :roll:
but i agree on an old car its probably best to just do the whole job and get it over with. i've also replaced one on our old dodge caravan and had to be very meticulous as well with cleaning the mating surface, but didn't screw that one up as well. time & patience are the key. dodge caravan's are totally different beasts though... :lol:
Mine didn't leak from where it joins to the block so i just used some wet dry to clean up the mating surface and did a "half" job. The half job is just replacing the "pump" part of it right? the impeller thing? You're talking about replacing the "pump" and the piece that mounts to the block right?
I haven't had any issues but I see where you're coming from.
I suppose it depends how clean that area is maintained and if it stays snug to the block? I dunno. So many people give me the "If a diesel doesn't leak and still starts it doesn't need any work! better off not touching it!" Which i don't believe AT ALL. But maybe in a case like this it could be true?
It's just a mounting plate correct?
Yes i,m talking about the part which is the outlet and that mounts against the block.
I try to pull them both together.
Worst problem I find is corrosion on the necks the hoses slide over.
A glass beader will usually clean that up,.. if not I have some spares.
No need for a new housing.
i put some petroleum jelly where the corrosion was. didn't take long before it started to dissolve the mineral buildup. plus its easier to get the hoses off/on :wink: the worst hoses are the ones that go to the oil cooler...
i replace the whole thing, i dont personaly see the point in seperating the halves. the last one i replaced, i opened up, and the impellar had fallen apart and chewed up the insides of the pump and housing.
it takes a bit more time to do, but i personaly feel its a better job.
Plus for the price of a whole unit it really isnt worth buying a half unit, but i can see what your all saying.
i always replace the whole thing, all the wp's i have split snap the heads off atleast 4 of the 8 or 9 bolts.