Author Topic: Deck crack near head bolt hole (Read 3777 times)

clbanman · « **Reply #15 on:** March 08, 2009, 10:35:14 am »

If you put some Loctite in the crack a day or two prior to putting the stud in, it will harden up in the middle of the crack. Loctite makes a few different thin products that will flow into the crack easily specifically for this type of use. My Loctite catalogue is at work, so I can't give you specific product numbers. The outer or surface portion won't set up, but the Loctite in the crack will set up due to the absence of air and presence of metal. Make sure you clean out the crack as well as possible (Loctite ODC, brake clean or electrical contact cleaner) and give it time to dry, then use the thin Loctite (the thinner product will wick into the crack instead of just sitting on the surface). You don't need to worry about any of the Loctite in the bolt hole as it won't harden with air present.

TurboJ · « **Reply #16 on:** March 08, 2009, 06:37:46 pm »

After seeing that picture, I would think twice about using that block.
Replacement blocks aren't really that expensive, or hard to find IMO.

maxfax · « **Reply #17 on:** March 08, 2009, 06:45:38 pm »

Hmmm I'm gonna have to go investigate the loctite web site.. That may just be an option for the bolt hole that oils...

thomcat · « **Reply #18 on:** March 09, 2009, 12:04:00 am »

UnfortunatlyI already have $200 plus in machine work in that block and I am way over budget as it is. I am not really worried about the crack leaking there is nowhere for the coolant to go, and it wasnt leaking before disassembly . I am going to use the red loctite to make sure the stud has enough holding power. Ill leave this engine stock and save the turbo plan for a better candidate ( and a two door, or to put a diesel in a scirocco) diesel engines are hard to find at a fair price arround here.

maxfax · « **Reply #19 on:** March 09, 2009, 12:45:47 am »

With studs and no turbo I think you'll be fine... 2 years ago people were trying to give old VW diesels away.. With price of fuel and scrap last summer they are scarce around here as well...

Rabbit TD · « **Reply #20 on:** March 09, 2009, 12:57:50 am »

Quote from: "thomcat"

UnfortunatlyI already have $200 plus in machine work in that block and I am way over budget as it is. I am not really worried about the crack leaking there is nowhere for the coolant to go, and it wasnt leaking before disassembly . I am going to use the red loctite to make sure the stud has enough holding power. Ill leave this engine stock and save the turbo plan for a better candidate ( and a two door, or to put a diesel in a scirocco) diesel engines are hard to find at a fair price arround here.

I don't think you will have a problem with the stud not holding but if it doesn't the loctiite won't help in that respect. I think the best solution so far is the ARP studs and the Loctite thread sealer and the Loctite that would wick into the crack area for a little added security. Another thing to think about if you loctite the stud in with the red type it might make tear down more difficult in the future also by the head having to be lifted over the stud maby creating a clearance problem. If anything can seal a thread The Loctite thread sealer can do it and they make specialty sealers for about anything under the sun and there is no need to substitute any of their products for another because they make the right one for each purpose in the first place. It would kind of be like putting STP in Mobile One synthetic oil trying to make it better. The studs ill go a lot deeper and not pull out and the sealer is a good idea allowing you to still remove the stud. As for the head gasket, I'd use the fiber one to allow for any little bit of warp that is probably present.

thomcat · « **Reply #21 on:** March 09, 2009, 01:03:56 am »

cool thanks for the advice . I am going to go with the fiber gasket as there will be no boost aplied and both head and deck are freshly machined I will forgo the red loctite and use thread sealant . lol at that price arp studs better hold! :shock: will a fiber gsket deal well with the 3retorque 3 times routine they say arp recomends?
thanks
Thom

Rabbit TD · « **Reply #22 on:** March 09, 2009, 02:04:42 am »

I don't think it would cause any problems but I just put in ARP 12 m/m's in my Rabbit motor and ARP doesn't even call for a retorque but it sure doesn't hurt as long as you do them one at a time. My last motor was a 1.6 N/A with the head resurfaced, fiber gasket and 11 m/m bolts and it leaked water to the outside right after I started it after a careful torquing on the first start. I just retorqued and it quit and never used a drop this past 3 years. I sure hope this new one stays put, it's 12 m/m and they are the torque to yeild which I didn't want to fool with and there so many grades of them you don't know what you have and all that extra 1/4 turns and all is for the birds let alone the creaking and jerking scaring you to death thinking something is cracking which is already a situation you have with the crack but the ARP's have none of that and go in deeper and those nuts torque as smooth as can be, I would definately use them as if this engine doesn't workout you will already have the studs which would eliminate the problem in your next block from happening again as they do alot in the 11 m/m's in that area.