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#105
by
jtanguay
on 22 Jun, 2009 10:04
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you're better off keeping the turbo functioning, but limit the boost to around 10 psi.
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#106
by
Jettagli16v
on 22 Jun, 2009 16:42
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For sure...
I can easily follow that break in procedure to the letter.

And keeping it at 10 PSI is easy, just remove my MBC.
So while my intuition was to take it easy on it,
you say I should go ahead and dump some fuel in there, eh?
Also,
I have taken a gamble, and wagered my block.
I have re-used the original rod bolts,
because of the added time and expense
of the machining to install the ARPs I bought.
I torqued all evenly to 22 lb/ft.
I plan to re-check rod bolt torque after the first few miles, and then few hundred miles,
and then again after that.
And I am also going to start building another (better) block soon,
and use those rod bolts there.
Thanks again, Andrew and JTanguay!
Wish me luck!
-Brad
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#107
by
Jettagli16v
on 22 Jun, 2009 16:59
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#108
by
jtanguay
on 23 Jun, 2009 07:40
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can't wait to hear it running! i hope those rod bolts hold up

with stock boost they should... its probably high boost and high rpm's that really do them in.
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#109
by
Jettagli16v
on 23 Jun, 2009 19:54
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HAHA,
Well,
I did not add the ARP head studs and MLS gasket to the mix for stock boost levels....
we shall see what happens..
(the only new parts I really have in the block are rings and rod bearings, after all)
anyone have a decent MF code block laying around, cheap?
-Brad
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#110
by
Smokey Eddy
on 23 Jun, 2009 21:28
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-Brad
Such a familiar sight!

I loved that stage.
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#111
by
Jettagli16v
on 28 Jun, 2009 18:31
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Well,
as much as I loved that stage, Eddie,
I installed the headgasket and torqued the head (per 53 Willys' spec)
tonight.
I coated both sides of the HG with Aviation Permatex,
and torqued to the given spec,
and called it a night...
Now I need to:
install the rest of the accessories (Exhaust mani & turbo, inj lines, etc...)
and she will be ready to run...
Guys:
Since I dont have a block heater,
and have no desire to acquire one,
Ill be running it to warm it up for the retorque. (if possible)
Should I just run it in place to build temp,
or follow Libbybapa's break in procedure and re-torque after that?
Seems like a lot of stress for her to go through before being properly crushed & torqued.
Hopefully I will have all the rest done by the end of the week!!!!
I miss that car like you guys dont even know!
The 1.6 NA does not really fill the void......
Thanks!!!
-Brad
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#112
by
theman53
on 29 Jun, 2009 18:44
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on the last page it said you torqed the con rod bolts to 22lbs. I was thinking that it was closer to 35lbs, maybe even 32lbs. I just got ARPs and they are different that is why I don't know for sure.
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#113
by
Jettagli16v
on 30 Jun, 2009 16:19
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No, you read correctly.
Based on the Bentley's info
I went to 22ft-lb, which is 30 nm.
Also, one friend always helping me is my buddy Tom,
who started working at a VW dealership in the late 60s,
and he said he has seen far more issues come from overtorquing a rod bolt
than under. (assuming they are all even and consistent torque pulls)
I will also come back and re-check, and see if any have backed off at all.
If so, Ill go back to 22ft-lb + 1/4.
Still hoping to have her running this week,
but work will cramp my style, making me work Fri,
one of my days off....
Damn 4th of July sale, why do we have to celebrate our independence?
I wish we were still British at this point!!
-Brad
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#114
by
Jettagli16v
on 01 Jul, 2009 17:16
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Without a great way to warm the engine at rest,
Ill have to drive it around to warm it up for the re-torque.
I guess Ill go through Libbybapa's break in procedure,
and then let her rest while I re-torque,
assuming it even runs...
Maybe I'll re-assemble it and still have no compression!
Wish me luck, should be turning over tomorrow!
-Brad
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#115
by
Jettagli16v
on 02 Jul, 2009 13:51
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Another good day:
Injector hard lines on,
Glow plug wiring on (Why did I not remember to do that in the opposite order?......)
Exhaust manifold on,
EGT probe re-installed,
Front coolant flange cleaned (wow, that alum. gets pitted badly!)
and new O-Ring installed.
(Short day of work: just 2-3 hrs available today...)
My to-do list keeps getting shorter!
things left to do:
-Injector return lines (all new)
-Side of head coolant flange (need gskt)
-Turbo, oil lines & DP
-Oil pan bolts
-Timing belt
-Turn it over and see if it blows up!!!
If I was not working tomorrow,
she would be running by then....
And do we all agree that I can run around the block for 10-15 mins to seat the rings,
before the great re-torque?
Thanks!
Wish me luck!
-Brad
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#116
by
Jettagli16v
on 02 Jul, 2009 19:58
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Yeah,
I am torquing the head based on 53 Willys'
procedure.
(which involves going to 95 ft-lb,
warming the engine to normal operating temp,
and then re-toruing to 110..)
The way you just described is the ticket:
warm it up sitting there,
retorque,
and then go have some fun seating the rings....
And I guess Ill just leave the boost where it was: 20..
Things are really looking up:
Work decided they did not need me tomorrow morning,
so off to the shop I go to finish this debacle!
-Brad
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#117
by
Jettagli16v
on 05 Jul, 2009 20:32
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Another good (half) day:
-Torqued oil pan
-Installed Turbo
-removed rear engine mount to properly route turbo drain
-installed turbo oil feed line
The only thing I have left to do is
install T-belt and turn her over!
Hooray!
-Brad
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#118
by
Jettagli16v
on 09 Jul, 2009 11:20
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Another great day!
Last of the kinck-knacks installed,
Timing belt installed,
rolled it over 6x by hand, (the only time I wish I had a gasser is when turning this beast over by hand!)
and all marks are dead nuts. (or within a RCH, but not even close to a tooth)
I will either turn it over in a minute,
or wait for my friend to come up to the shop tomorrow,
to have an older, more experienced pair of ears listening....
Cross your fingers for me!
-Brad
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#119
by
Jettagli16v
on 10 Jul, 2009 11:29
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ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!
Holy crap,
I cant believe I did not make a single mistake major enough to prevent it from operating!
I warmed it up, idling, with little throttle inputs,
and re-torqued to 90 and then 113 ft-lb (to account for the extension I had to use to get my short socket into the head)
And then proceeded to drive it around and have fun!
I tried my best to hold to Libbybapa's procedure,
but it ended up being a 15 minute drive of random 3rd and 4th gear pulls (1/2 throttle or so),
followed by at least 5-10 seconds of no throttle, coasting.
It feels quiet and strong,
It starts by the second revolution of the engine,
and dies immediately when the ignition goes off. (read: great compression now!)
After 5-10 minutes,
My water level light went on, and water temp was running a little higher than usual (EGT = fine)
but my reservoir only had 1" of water in it when I got back.
Hopefully after topping off the reservoir (once it cools down), those issues will be solved.
One slight oddity:
Now, my glow plug light does not go off at its usual interval (5-10 seconds) when starting.
In fact it does not turn off until you crank the engine.
No worries, Ill happily play with that later,
BECAUSE MY JETTA RUNS!!!!!
*** I owe all of you a very special debt of gratitude,
as I could have possibly assembled this engine without you guys,
but not anywhere as well as this one is put together (Namely, ARPs, MLS, and sage wisdom)
Special thanks to: Libbybapa, JTanguay, 53 Willys, and Vince!
Ill get working on some pics or vids...
I really miss the sound of that Turbo!!
Thanks again!
-Brad