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drop it like it's hot...
by
79rabbit4dr
on 26 Feb, 2009 17:12
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anybody got tips on how to drop a gas tank from a 79 4dr rabbit EFI?
i've got the fuel fill pipe disconnected, 2 fuel hoses, the electrical connection under the bench in the rear, and both straps off already, but it still won't fall. Did everything the bently said, what am I missing?
p.s. sorry for the subject trickery, I need to get this out asap
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#1
by
truckinwagen
on 26 Feb, 2009 17:15
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I am looking at doing the same thing on my 82 two door, looks like the beam is in the way.
the only tank I have dropped was in a car with the rear beam already removed, went really easy.
but looking at it with the beam on, it looks tight.
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#2
by
arb
on 26 Feb, 2009 18:54
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I did this with my 4 door 1979 to remove the 5 gal pony tank that was where the spare tire was... still have this tank if anyone is interested ;-) I did not remove the beam.
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#3
by
veedubcanuck
on 26 Feb, 2009 19:32
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On my friends 84 4dr I had to drop the beam to get it out as well.
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#4
by
79rabbit4dr
on 26 Feb, 2009 22:54
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LAME!!!! the manual says NOTHING about dropping the rear. It LOOKS like it'd tilt down and out in front of the beam but it's not moving at all right now, and it's not touching the beam at all either.
ARB - you removed the OEM tank without dropping the beam? :shock: How?
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#5
by
Dr. Diesel
on 26 Feb, 2009 23:13
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it'll hinge down from the lower shock mounts. the crappy part is disconnecting brake flex hoses. Perfect time to replace them and flush the system though! Do yourself a favour and start hitting the bleeder screws with penetrating oil first! Heat is your friend, too.
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#6
by
arb
on 27 Feb, 2009 05:30
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LAME!!!! the manual says NOTHING about dropping the rear. It LOOKS like it'd tilt down and out in front of the beam but it's not moving at all right now, and it's not touching the beam at all either.
ARB - you removed the OEM tank without dropping the beam? :shock: How?
Its possible on mine it was not the OEM tank.... it could have been aftermarket or even from another car - It came with the pony tank that gave me a 750 mile range - I really miss... Yes, I didn't remove the beam.
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#7
by
veedubcanuck
on 27 Feb, 2009 07:18
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Why did you need to remove the flex lines? There should be enough slack there to lower it with them attached. I had enough anyway. Just don't stress the lines.
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#8
by
79rabbit4dr
on 27 Feb, 2009 09:56
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Why did you need to remove the flex lines? There should be enough slack there to lower it with them attached. I had enough anyway. Just don't stress the lines.
because it won't budge, still, with everything removed. I can't find a single thing that it's connected to. I've even pounded on the top from the inside to see if I could get it to budge, nada, not even a little bit. It just seems like there is something still securely fastened to it that's holding it rock solidly in place. I'm going to spend some more time on it today and if nothing works, out with the rear I guess. Unless anyone has some specific ideas on what could be holding it in there. Maybe something you found when pulling yours out that wasn't easily visible???
I just wanted to check with people who've done it before I started unbolting the rear beam - those bolts don't look knuckle-friendly :evil:
EDIT: oops, just saw the post about the brake flex lines, thought you meant the fuel lines.
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#9
by
Dirtrag2
on 27 Feb, 2009 14:43
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just a thought... it is a 29 yr old car and it probably has 29 yr old rust ( unless the tank was changed at some point )
the tank may just be rust welded to something. did you try a pry bar to see if it will move :?:
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#10
by
the caveman
on 27 Feb, 2009 15:13
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I used to determine how hard a job would be compared to removing the tank from a rabbit. Almost anything was preferable to doing it. Things to be careful of- the nuts/ studs holding the axle to the body, and personally i wouldn't even bother trying to remove the brake hoses in one piece. just cut them and once the axle is down, change them. It will be infinitely easier than trying to loosen the fittings where they are[have a look, scratch head say to your self "what were they thinking ? "]. Going back to the axle studs; since using a torch to heat the nuts is probably not a good idea, soak them with the best penetrating fluid you can get you hands on and soak them for a day or 2 ,or at least a few hours, because if they break.... Put a 1/2 drive socket on one, hit straight on hard with a hammer , take a big breaker bar and break them loose[don't tug at them, you want to snap the tension].
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#11
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 27 Feb, 2009 15:20
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ive pulled 3 different rabbit tanks (2 diesel, 1 gas) and all three were really straight forward. i did have to drop the front of the rear beam a few inches, but after that, the tanks came right out. but im pretty sure i had to tip the back down first. or was it the front? i cant remember, i hate tanks under the car. i put a hole in my first one shortly after getting my car. lets just say i take my car places that were never intended to see cars. being that i live in the PNW, theres alot of forest land. quad trails are quite fun. ***, ive had my car soo muddy before that you could barely tell it was blue. ive got a 15 gallon stainless keg under the rear hatch now. its 15 gallons, bigger than the stock tank for sure.
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#12
by
the caveman
on 27 Feb, 2009 15:47
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But you're not exactly in the rust belt are you ? Even removing them back in 1988 when they were only a few years old, you had to be real careful.
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#13
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 27 Feb, 2009 15:53
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rust belt? are you kidding me? i live in one of the rustiest towns in oregon for sure. i live next to a river and an ocean. and it rains A TON... not like we get salted roads, but the salty ocean air sure doesnt help our cars out any. and i heard volkswagen galvanized there bodies a couple different years? i kinda think it might be true. cause my car has lived in this town since bought brand new, and it has 3 teeny tiny spots of rust on it, but none of its on the main body. every other rabbit ive seen around here has gaping cancer holes.
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#14
by
79rabbit4dr
on 28 Feb, 2009 22:57
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thanks everyone, this car is just getting parted out at this point so i'm not too worried about breaking other parts that should be replaced when rebuilt anyway (brake lines, etc.) so I might just try loosening the rear end and dropping it down a bit. Yes i've tried pounding on it from all angles with a rubber mallet but it doesn't seem to budge. There really isn't much/any rust on the underside so I don't think it would be that... maybe i'll spray some PB up there too :idea:
thanks again!!!