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Stripped a crank pulley bolt, HeLp!
by
8v-of-fury
on 30 Jan, 2009 19:53
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Ok so i am in the middle of doing a timing belt change on an engine that is currently on an engine stand, and the last fricken bolt decides to strip on me
I tried using vice-grips... I gave up and have no other ideas.. What can i do?
TIA
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#1
by
Dirtrag2
on 30 Jan, 2009 20:11
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#2
by
Quantum TD
on 30 Jan, 2009 20:14
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I usually drill out the center of the allen head till it just snaps off. This releases the tension on the head. Rarely is the bolt actually rusted in there.
Then, once the pulley is off, I can usuall spin the rest of the bolt shank off by hand.
Even if it won't spin off by hand, you'll be able to get the vicegrips in there really easily to take it out.
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#3
by
Rabbit TD
on 30 Jan, 2009 20:19
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Hammer a 12-point socket over it.
Andrew
And aways try to use a 6 point socket first so you don't round them off unnecessarily to begin with on almost any bolt as far as that goes. I hardly touch my 12 points any more, and always have a can of PB Blaster on hand.
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#4
by
Powered by Spearco
on 30 Jan, 2009 21:17
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The same thing happened today to me. Stripped out the 6mm allen, then tapped in a CV bolt socket "3 square, or 12 point". Used air impact and came right out.
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#5
by
burn_your_money
on 31 Jan, 2009 07:49
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Hammer the head of the bolt with a punch until it folds the center back in on itself. Then hammer in the 6mm and it should just spin out. If that doesn't work then tap in the tightest socket you can. When I strip a 6mm allen I go to a 1/4 allen key. I've broken many allen sockets using this method. Lifetime warranty at c-tire... You aren't using allen keys are you?
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#6
by
8v-of-fury
on 31 Jan, 2009 18:46
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I didn't want to start a new thread, and seeing as how it is the same goal i am trying to get to as last night i will just add the current problem here.
Ok so i might as well tell you all what i am trying to accomplish so you can help me see any unforseen things that will happen lol. I am trying to remove the bracket that holds the pump on so that i can replace it with one from an mk1 engine so it will fit in my mk1 jetta. The problem being now is that there are two bolt on the mount, that have to be undone from the opposite side (behind the pump!!!:@)
These two bolts.. are way down in behind the pump.. lol how in the hell! do you get to them to remove this mount? I don't want to have to fully remove the pump if i dont have to.. that will just add to the percentage of things going wrong.
what are my options?
ps. I got the stripped bolt off... tried everything before drilling, drilling worked the best.. had to drill out the entire bolt and rethread and will have to get a new bolt to fit.. no biggy. lol
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#7
by
ilikevwdiesel
on 31 Jan, 2009 18:51
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dude you can't remove those bolts without removing the pump. pull the pump off, install the mk 1 bracket (after you press a new rubber mount into it), remount and time the pump. sorry to bust your bubbles. And pull that pump sprocket key off the pump shaft before it falls into oblivion.
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#8
by
8v-of-fury
on 31 Jan, 2009 19:04
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Fck life right? lol
Damnit, well at least i can get some experience doing this *** eh? lol and its on a stand so if i fck it up.. no worries.. lol anything special i need to know about removing the pump? Also for re priming can i just hook the lines back up and suck the diesel through? I think this ones going to be a major PITA isnt it?
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#9
by
Rabbit TD
on 31 Jan, 2009 20:40
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Fck life right? lol
Damnit, well at least i can get some experience doing this *** eh? lol and its on a stand so if i fck it up.. no worries.. lol anything special i need to know about removing the pump? Also for re priming can i just hook the lines back up and suck the diesel through? I think this ones going to be a major PITA isnt it?
You should have the dial indicator to time it when you put it together again but if you don't then at least put a scribe mark on the bracket to match up with the corresponding mark on the pump to get you close, that's assuming it was right to begin with. Just 1/8 in. one way or the other is a pretty significant change on these things, it's not just a matter of bolting it on and popping on the belt.
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#10
by
8v-of-fury
on 31 Jan, 2009 20:49
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haha no all is good on the timing deal, i just need to change that darned mount.. so sadly i have to remove the pump.. so which is better.. remove the fuel lines at the injectors or the pump? i have all the tools to retime it, and the new beltm tensioner, and valve cover gasket.. just gotta kno wat to do with the pump LOL maybe i can do a little governer mod while the pump is off and accessible? lol
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#11
by
jtanguay
on 31 Jan, 2009 21:13
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haha no all is good on the timing deal, i just need to change that darned mount.. so sadly i have to remove the pump.. so which is better.. remove the fuel lines at the injectors or the pump? i have all the tools to retime it, and the new beltm tensioner, and valve cover gasket.. just gotta kno wat to do with the pump LOL maybe i can do a little governer mod while the pump is off and accessible? lol
best to remove the injectors from the injectors themselves. plug up the in/out ports in the pump if you decide to store it for any length of time (overnight should be ok)
a good idea to prime the engine would be to install a priming bulb before the filter. you can buy that at any boat store for sure, and possibly others. would make filter changes very easy!
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#12
by
Rabbit TD
on 31 Jan, 2009 22:40
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haha no all is good on the timing deal, i just need to change that darned mount.. so sadly i have to remove the pump.. so which is better.. remove the fuel lines at the injectors or the pump? i have all the tools to retime it, and the new beltm tensioner, and valve cover gasket.. just gotta kno wat to do with the pump LOL maybe i can do a little governer mod while the pump is off and accessible? lol
You have to take the lines off both injectors and pump and get them out of the way. You still have to time the pump when you put the other mounting bracket on the engine and then the pump. But you say you have the timing tools so you should be OK.