My soon to be new downpipe! - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• My soon to be new downpipe! by Smokey Eddy on 22 Jan, 2009 01:18
• My soon to be new downpipe! My buddy picked this up for my from his work for free!
  
  Wooo hooo
  
  It was used to carry refrigerant. its diam is 3inches and pretty intense steel. I'm going to cut it at the 45 degree bend and hopefully i will be able to get it to fit just like that with some shortening of the ends.
  
  alright, we'll see how it goes!
• #1 by Kudagra on 22 Jan, 2009 07:48
• hmm..Good Luck?
  
  Might want to beef up those front springs while you are under there.
• #2 by arb on 22 Jan, 2009 08:15
• Mild steel ? If its thick enough, it will last a while before the rust eats through at the turbo exit.
  
  While you use it, here's some not too expensive SS tubing with bends.
  http://www.roadraceengineering.com/mandrelbends.htm
• #3 by jtanguay on 22 Jan, 2009 10:03
• you could always coat it... if it was meant to carry refrigerant, then it might have some type of coating on the inside???  refrigerant is pretty damn corrosive when moisture is present (if they use a hydroscopic oil).
  
  hopefully a little oil spray from hard pulls will keep the inside from rusting  :lol:
• #4 by blackdogvan on 22 Jan, 2009 11:37
• Sweet exhaust gas brake too!  :wink:
• #5 by Smokey Eddy on 22 Jan, 2009 15:05
• it's not as heavy as it looks ^.^
  
  Im going to cut the huge valve off obviously.
  
  I was going to paint it with high temp paint. or possibly ceramic coat it or something.
• #6 by jtanguay on 22 Jan, 2009 17:04
• Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"

  it's not as heavy as it looks ^.^
  
  Im going to cut the huge valve off obviously.
  
  I was going to paint it with high temp paint. or possibly ceramic coat it or something.

  
  
  just prep it well.  rust check makes this stuff that converts a rusted surface into a paintable surface.  its never let me down yet just need to wire brush as much rust off as possible first.
• #7 by Smokey Eddy on 22 Jan, 2009 18:29
• yeauhhhs thanks for the advice
  
  For the weight issue im thinking of making a hanger that ill screw into the unibody as close to the front as possible to dampen the movement and such.
  
  the wall of the pipe isn't that thick. That piece pointing at the camera is a sleeve inside the pipe so it looks thicker than it is. I don't think it's just mild steel. It's treated to carry corrosive oils as mentioned.
• #8 by Smokey Eddy on 22 Jan, 2009 23:04
• The idea was to put the flex immediately after the DP. but before it bends to go under the car. TO avoid having the brace it to the engine.
  
  Having the exhaust manifold, turbo AND a big downpipe on those poor exhaust studs i would imagine to be very stressful on them!
  
  Just have to find a flex that will fit now is-all the problem.
• #9 by 8v-of-fury on 23 Jan, 2009 20:57
• But won't having the Dp bolted to the body.. and having the flex after the downpipe not make the flex invalid?
  
  you want the flex pipe to allow the engine to "flex" freely from the body. Having the turbo bolted to the manifold, and bolted to the dp, and then having that bolted to the body.. will defeat the purpose of your flex pipe will it not? You are going to snap something the first time you pull hard and the engine wants to "roll".
  
  However I could be having a major brainfart here, i do believe you are going about this the wrong way. If you want to support the weight of the dp then you will have to flex between the turbo and dp.
• #10 by Smokey Eddy on 24 Jan, 2009 00:52
• sorry i was really poor with my wording.
  
  You are right, and yes; one way or another that is what i plan on doing.
  
  Thanks for clarifying though  
  
  I've always wanted solid engine mounts though
• #11 by 8v-of-fury on 24 Jan, 2009 08:19
• haha.. I wasn't sure if yours was just a typo or not
  
  Good luck with your monster DP!  
• #12 by Smokey Eddy on 24 Jan, 2009 15:27
• augh i hope it works. I am worried about all that weight on the manifold mounts though... Hopefully my welding friend can weld with me this Sunday.
• #13 by Smokey Eddy on 24 Jan, 2009 16:50
• Quote from: "libbybapa"

  If you have a flex after the downpipe, I would still do a brace to the engine even if you're putting a hanger right after the flex.  No real welding required.  Just take a piece of flat, drill the appropriately sized hole to fit over one of the turbo to downpipe studs, bend the other end appropriately so it fits on another hole to the block, drill the hole, mount it and you're done.
  
  Andrew

  
  
  That's exactly what i was going to do. There are so many extra holes it wont be a big deal either me thinks.
• #14 by Smokey Eddy on 25 Jan, 2009 18:43
• I have all the bends cut now and it's the right length. Just have to fine tune the welds to get the perfect fit.
  
  
  Does anyone have pictures of a bracket to hold their downpipe to the block in any way?
  
  I saw one picture of one but it wasn't very detailed and it was a picture of the whole thing. could anyone maybe take a picture of a bracket they made? I'm having issues finding suitable already threaded holes on the block.  are there any near the frost plugs? I can't fit my head in there, while under the car, to see everything...
  
  any help would be AWESOME
  
  ps. two 90 degree bends and a 45 work really well together. Anyone with a welder this isn't impossible to do. And when it rusts away just do it again!