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#15
by
jtanguay
on 21 Dec, 2008 13:47
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OK, I took off the injector lines and rotated the engine by hand. I can see a little squirt of fuel at each cylinder at roughly the same time the lobes are pointed up. At first, I rotated the engine 6 times and never saw fuel coming from the #1 injector. All of the others dripped fuel immediately. After many more turns, fuel finally started dripping from #1. I put the injector on #3 and pulled it out of the hole to see when it fired, but I never was able to see any fuel from it. Maybe I am not able to turn it fast enough by hand? My next test is to advance the timing by one tooth on the pump and see what happens. That does not seem right, as I already have tested the timing at several stages of advance (now at full advance) and it always behaved the same.
Does my little lock pin at TDC mean anything?
yea you won't be able to develop enough pressure to get the injector to spray by hand...
Tintin, what do you recommend he set his timing to??? IIRC white smoke is unburnt fuel, and therefore indicates a retarded timing, correct??? maybe try increasing timing by 0.05mm and keep going up so the timing would be 1.05mm,1.10mm and so on.
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#16
by
avocado
on 21 Dec, 2008 13:48
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Turned the pulley on the pump counterclockwise one tooth (advanced, right?) and tried again. Engine turns over a lot smoother than before, but now no smoke. Crank and crank and crank, I know there is fuel at the injectors but no smoke and no coughing.
I guess I just need to find out when the injectors are firing. Apparently a little squirt of fuel out of the end of the line is not enough to tell.
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#17
by
avocado
on 21 Dec, 2008 13:54
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BTW, Tintin recommended that I set the pump at 1mm at TDC. I do not have a dial gauge. I will have to take it to a diesel mechanic who does have a gauge though...
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#18
by
avocado
on 21 Dec, 2008 17:28
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One last thought.....Im trying to start this thing with the stock Zuki battery (with a charger attached). It seems to turn over fine, but it does only have 475 CCA. Maybe I need more CCA's?
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#19
by
avocado
on 21 Dec, 2008 19:22
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Just tried turning in the fuel screw 1/2 turn at a time.....got clear to 3 turns in and no changes.
I put a few small drops of gasoline in the intake (glow's disabled) and cranked. Engine coughs for a half second on its own and thats it.
Again verified that my TDC mark is correct.
Someone on TDIclub mentioned that my injectors may have gone bad from sitting for a month or three? Have not had these pop tested.
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#20
by
madmedix
on 22 Dec, 2008 11:11
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Oops. Musta been browsing too many threads at once; just noticed the top post that this is for a TDI IP/engine; of which I have no experience with. Only mk 2's...I have no iidea if your mTDI pump has the cold start advance on it. If it does though, it would be on the block side of the pump just in front of cyl #1.
Andy
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#21
by
rabbitman
on 22 Dec, 2008 23:22
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Turned the pulley on the pump counterclockwise one tooth (advanced, right?) and tried again. Engine turns over a lot smoother than before, but now no smoke.
Actually I think that retarded it.
Think of it this way, by turning the pulley counterclockwise on the belt the crank has to turn clockwise farther to make the IP turn to were it was.
I think if you turn the pump pulley clockwise two teeth you'll be in business. Let us know how it turns out.
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#22
by
burn_your_money
on 23 Dec, 2008 15:08
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Actually I think that retarded it.
Think of it this way, by turning the pulley counterclockwise on the belt the crank has to turn clockwise farther to make the IP turn to were it was.
I think if you turn the pump pulley clockwise two teeth you'll be in business. Let us know how it turns out.
+1 on that thinking.
A mTDI pump may or may not have a cold start. It would be a lever at near the bottom of the pump between the pump and the engine.
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#23
by
avocado
on 23 Dec, 2008 21:06
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Well, I ended up taking it to a guy. He had it running within 2 hours. Apparently the 100 timing adjustments I made never quite hit the spot. He also said that there was a bit of air in the fuel lines....not sure how or why, because I checked the fuel filter several times and it always had fuel in it. It starts and runs happily, albeit pretty loud. He did not even have a timing gauge, and he said that it would be best to do the final adjustments with that. I have that on order, should be here fairly soon. Oddly enough, when I took it to him, I had the crank, cam and pump set at TDC. I could get the pin in the pump. He said it was quite a bit off....not sure how he did what he did but oh well. Static timing was perfect though.
I need to make a lot of little adjustments....clutch is out of adjusment and slips with anything more than half throttle. Need to take care of that.....but it made very good power before the slippage.
Things look ok so far.
Thanks again for the help!
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#24
by
jtanguay
on 24 Dec, 2008 11:19
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Well, I ended up taking it to a guy. He had it running within 2 hours. Apparently the 100 timing adjustments I made never quite hit the spot. He also said that there was a bit of air in the fuel lines....not sure how or why, because I checked the fuel filter several times and it always had fuel in it. It starts and runs happily, albeit pretty loud. He did not even have a timing gauge, and he said that it would be best to do the final adjustments with that. I have that on order, should be here fairly soon. Oddly enough, when I took it to him, I had the crank, cam and pump set at TDC. I could get the pin in the pump. He said it was quite a bit off....not sure how he did what he did but oh well. Static timing was perfect though.
I need to make a lot of little adjustments....clutch is out of adjusment and slips with anything more than half throttle. Need to take care of that.....but it made very good power before the slippage.
Things look ok so far.
Thanks again for the help!
which point in the clutch pedal does the clutch engage??? theres a bit of adjustment you can do even with the auto adjusting cable... mine started catching right at the end of the pedal for some reason, and so i played with it for about 15-20 mins and managed to fix it.
timing by ear sometimes is best with these motors, as doing it by the book does not take into account normal wear...
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#25
by
rabbitman
on 24 Dec, 2008 12:56
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timing by ear sometimes is best with these motors,
Yeah, if you know how they're supposed to sound it works fine. I did mine with a gauge and after a short time I just did it by ear and ran the same but sounded better (less rattley)
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#26
by
jtanguay
on 24 Dec, 2008 16:40
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timing by ear sometimes is best with these motors,
Yeah, if you know how they're supposed to sound it works fine. I did mine with a gauge and after a short time I just did it by ear and ran the same but sounded better (less rattley)
ya thats kind of what i meant, as in the gauge will get you very close to where it should be, and a final time by ear will get it closer to where it should be/where you want it to be.
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#27
by
avocado
on 25 Dec, 2008 11:45
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I goofed with it a bit more and got it to engage properly. I just had it set a bit tight. I put a new HD clutch on it, so holding capacity shouldn't be an issue.
It has plenty of power, but I haven't even been able to drive it during the day so I can't see if there's any smoke. It is pretty loud and tends to transmit a lot of noise into the cabin, but Ill try to help that with some sound deadening materials.
I can't wait to get it all dialed in.....got a special FIMC to go on it too, just need the hosing. Will also try to get a feel on EGT's and boost numbers for better tuning.
I'd post some pix, but I don't know where to upload them!
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#28
by
Tintin
on 27 Dec, 2008 08:42
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You can also back-up the fuel screw if you think too much smoke.
With that tranny i suggest you to not to push so far the pump fueling, you cannot control the torq at low rpm like EDC can does.
TDI motor are much more noisy than IDI, especially with M-Pump.