Author Topic: flywheel bolt torque (Read 11305 times)

dave friday · « **Reply #15 on:** December 07, 2008, 01:08:15 pm »

Thanks again Smutts, just had a look at the part no [N902 061 03 ] and Googled it ,came up with 22ftlb+90deg!! i only did them to 54ftlb! so can re-use them with locktite.

fatmobile · « **Reply #16 on:** December 07, 2008, 05:50:12 pm »

Sooo you weren't talking about flywheel bolts?

I guess most everyone but me knew what bolts you were talking about, even though the topic says flywheel bolts... and you never said different.

dave friday · « **Reply #17 on:** December 07, 2008, 07:41:59 pm »

The 6 bolts that bolt the flywheel to the crankshaft are what i'm on about.

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #18 on:** December 07, 2008, 09:59:57 pm »

So let's be really careful here, lest someone's new engine comes flying apart !!

On transverse vdubs like these the pressure plate bolts to the crankshaft, using 6 stout single-use torque-to-yield bolts, usually supplied with blue locktite on them. My Bentley says 60 Nm (44 ft lbs) + 1/4 turn.

The flywheel bolts to the pressure plate with 9 much smaller bolts, torqued to a significantly smaller value. My Bentley says 20 Nm (15 ft lbs)

Easy to get confused, since most every other engine out there is the other way around, and if you just read the text of the Haynes or Bentley you might either strip out the flywheel bolts *or* not tighten the pressure plate bolts enough and have a new wobble in your life some day :cry:

The upside of how VW did it ?? We can change our throwout bearing without separating the engine and tranny. :wink:

dave friday · « **Reply #19 on:** December 08, 2008, 07:19:02 am »

Cheers, the jx 1588cc td engine in the t3/t25 syncro van has the gear box mounted on the flywheel end ,in line with the engine.I just had a look at the layout of the golf [gear box under the engine].....it all becomes clear.
Ta.

fatmobile · « **Reply #20 on:** December 09, 2008, 04:01:55 am »

I have heard 22 and 44 (then a 1/4 turn) for the pressure plate bolts.
I lean toward 22,... because 44 then 1/4 turn is very hard to do.

smutts · « **Reply #21 on:** December 09, 2008, 03:54:09 pm »

Sorry to threadjack, but!

What a missed opportunity this clutch design was. Look at an 1980's GM Opel or Vauxhall, or a 1970's OHV F14 Datsun, they also had this arse about face clutch design with a pushrod through a hollow primary shaft. But, they allowed the primary shaft to be slid out of the clutch plate, then a hatch to allow the clutch to drop out. Doddle. Weep as you struggle to change the VW clutch. Leisurely 45 minutes clutch change anyone?

Those were the days.

P.S. Theres rather a variety of torques and angle turns out there! Looks as though VW have changed their mind a few times on how to keep these things attached. :roll:

Baxter · « **Reply #22 on:** December 10, 2008, 07:36:36 am »

Hi Dave.
just checked on the Autodata CD.

Figures quote there are 30Nm + 90° with using new bolts.

Thats for a JX engine in a T3.

That's what I use here with no ill effects.

Baxter · « **Reply #23 on:** December 10, 2008, 07:50:31 am »

PS, I think the replacing the bolts thing is about the thread lock compound that comes on the new bolts.
Obviously new bolts come with the compound on, old ones don't!
I have reused them here in the past with a blob of threadlock, again with good results.

You can use a type 1 flywheel lock if used with a long bolt and a spacer.
It doesn't fit as it's meant to but it's enough to lock the flywheel while you torque the bolts up.
I always thread lock and torque them here as I don't want one coming loose on a customer, doesn't bode well with customer relations when things fall off while doing 80 in the outside lane of the M1..

dave friday · « **Reply #24 on:** December 12, 2008, 04:11:39 am »

Thanks Simon [Baxter] and yes, your the well respected mechanic!,i must get an Autodata cd.