you could probably get away with using those pins... i would much rather just go with the TDI sprocket upgrade if i were you. it's probably going to be about as much trouble as re-welding the crank nose & filing it down.
Because the rotation of the crank is clockwise and driven by the pistons, which in turn drive the sprocket, which in turn drives the injection pump and cam, all of the rotational force acting on the sprocket is working to rotate the sprocket counter-clockwise, toward the direction that the crank nose is damaged, and loosen the bolt. Couple that with the fact that the force is not constant but rather pulsed, the whole system is set up to loosen the crank bolt if there is play in the keyway. Yes, the pinning mod would be where various holes are drilled through the sprocket and crank nose in order to prevent any motion. Like the welding option, that could also potentially be done in situ.Andrew
Quote from: "vwt4"jtanguay - I think the TDi sprocket would not be as simple as it seems because the machining would have to be done in the perfect place to keep the crank sprocket in the correct position relative to the other sprockets.Actually, the timing of both the pump and cam are infinitely adjustable and so the orientation of the crank sprocket on the crank is not important.I fully understand wanting to go ahead and use the new tool.Andrew
jtanguay - I think the TDi sprocket would not be as simple as it seems because the machining would have to be done in the perfect place to keep the crank sprocket in the correct position relative to the other sprockets.
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Check out this thread;http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2719That is where I snagged the crank sprocket pic. If building the jig for the pinning, it might be a similar range of difficulty to build the jig that Andy2 shows and do the TDI sprocket. I lean toward using the TDI sprocket because of future crank sprocket replacements. If VW is not super consistent on the placement of the pulley bolt holes, then if the sprocket ever needs to be replaced it will be very difficult to line up the pin holes.Andrew
if you're looking for some cheap lifters, prothe has some at his site www.dieselvw.com although nobody's commented on the quality... but if you're looking for a 1Z conversion anyways, then you might as well cheap out a bit. i would :wink:
0.08 mm is the wear limit for the piston to bore clearance. That, however, will be measured at the skirt. The piston crown is more narrow and so will move more. I've never seen, gotten or even wanted the spec for the crown to cylinder spec.Andrew
Do you have a mic set? If so, you could measure the bore. Without a mic set, once the carbon is removed from the top of the cylinder (scotchbrite works wonders) then there should be virtually no ridge. The new piston to cyl clearance should be .001", the wear limit is .003". Considering that some of that clearance will be piston wear, then you're really wanting a ridge of less than .001" in order to be within the wear limit. Andrew
If you're planning on a swap anyway in the not-too-distant future and the bore came in within spec or even slightly out of spec, I'd button it up and run it.Andrew