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#15
by
Rabbit TD
on 31 Dec, 2008 18:19
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The reason I got studs {ARP} ones is because I don't like these damn stretch bolts with all this {ad another 1/4 turn}, {use them one time} courser threads while torquing not to mention strength. Another thing that really bothers me today is where are those stretch bolts made unless you go to the dealer and if I have to start doing that I'll be back playing with Chevy's again. I'm sure you can probably take a head bolt, and go to the Fastenal store and get a stud that's as good as an ARP or Raceware for half the price or less but these are nice. One of the things I like most with these are when you are torquing you don't have those creaking sounds and all those uneasy jerky feelings that are associated with the bolts no matter how clean the threads are. And again with ARP all I have to do is sit here on my ass, push buttons and spend money. Ain't it fun :lol:
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#16
by
Smokey Eddy
on 31 Dec, 2008 20:46
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well "our" ARP studs are for what ... a cosworth or some crap like that? Probably a totally different head design.
Hence the contraversy with torque specs, sealant, loctite, the list goes on. They aren't "proper" they're just better than the flippin stretch bolts.
It's just innocent questions being asked and hopefully answered; asked by those who obviously don't know (other wise they wouldn't be asking?) so no need to be antsie! No one's accusing anyone of anything! :roll:
my sixpence: take it easy 'n' have fun!
( i too hate the snapping sounds with stretch bolts, good golly what a terrible feeling!!!)
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#17
by
theman53
on 01 Jan, 2009 06:00
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DON'T dare go to fastenal...Call me. LOL. I work at a nut and bolt house and if you were to go to a fastenal around here you probably wouldn't spend any less than ARP. Also if the guy working there never had a job with another nut and bolt place or knew what is going on you would have to find the stuff yourself. The fastenals around here are the walmart greeters of the fastener industry. I am looking at some SPS Unbrako stuff for my engine, but still haven't decided on which material or know what the cost is. If it isn't any better I will go with the Racewares.
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#18
by
Rabbit TD
on 01 Jan, 2009 21:14
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DON'T dare go to fastenal...Call me. LOL. I work at a nut and bolt house and if you were to go to a fastenal around here you probably wouldn't spend any less than ARP. Also if the guy working there never had a job with another nut and bolt place or knew what is going on you would have to find the stuff yourself. The fastenals around here are the walmart greeters of the fastener industry. I am looking at some SPS Unbrako stuff for my engine, but still haven't decided on which material or know what the cost is. If it isn't any better I will go with the Racewares.
Yeah, I know what you are saying about the help in a lot of places like that. You go in there in the first place hoping you can get some professional advice trying to get something at least as good as or better than OEM after seeing their product adds and such and then get in this nice new store, computers about 5 feet apart and such and you think Man, I'm gonna get some good stuff now, then you get the Wal-Mart Greeter and he says without a part # I can't help you. You feel like saying, "Please just get the hell out of the way and let me get back there and look for myself." They probably have something good back there or can get it and it just can't be found. That's what is nice about this forum, other people have already been through the same thing and already found the {Good Stuff} and the bad too and we all can learn.
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#19
by
Jasonsmack
on 02 Jan, 2009 00:24
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I can not remember if the head bolt holes are blind or extend right through into the water jacket of these engines. If they are blind there is no reason to put anything onto the threads of the head stud where it goes into the block. If the hole goes into the water jacket you need to put a sealant on the threads. I have alot of experience with Chevrolet engines and even on the cheapest beater 350 there is a good chance of coolant entering the crankcase if you do not put sealant on the threads of the head bolts/studs. The sealant is there from the factory and new and/or jobber head bolts come with sealant on the threads already.
I can check at my shop tomorrow on the configuration of the holes if nobody else here knows for sure.
If the ARP sealant is not supplied or available liquid brushable teflon works fine.
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#20
by
Jasonsmack
on 02 Jan, 2009 00:26
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Oh yeah -> NO LOCTITE EVER!
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#21
by
theman53
on 02 Jan, 2009 04:27
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Got my TD on the stand in the basement and all the holes I see are blind.
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#22
by
Rabbit TD
on 02 Jan, 2009 09:25
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Mine are also blind on my 1600 TD, if you still aren't sure just put a long screwdriver in hole an
d see
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#23
by
Jasonsmack
on 02 Jan, 2009 10:56
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A good can of nothing should work fine then.
ARP usually supplies a moly based lube to put on the threads on the top end of the stud. That is all that should be needed.
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#24
by
RustyCaddy
on 02 Jan, 2009 11:07
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Out on the bench in the garage...block holes are blind on the 11mm CR too...could the reference be to thread sealing the part of the stud where it passes through the heads coolant jacket (the top, front facing port)
?
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#25
by
rabbitman
on 02 Jan, 2009 11:48
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could the reference be to thread sealing the part of the stud where it passes through the heads coolant jacket (the top, front facing port)?
All that stuff I wrote is actually pretty useless for our engines, it's what ARP said about SOME engines. I know the holes on ours are dead end, in the bentley it says make sure the holes don't have any oil in 'em, that's because it'll compress the oil and you might crack the block.
Sorry if I confused anyone. :oops:
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#26
by
captainpartytime
on 02 Jan, 2009 12:28
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A good can of nothing should work fine then
Part #?
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#27
by
Jasonsmack
on 02 Jan, 2009 12:38
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A good can of nothing should work fine then
Part #?
010-fluff
or
sailboat fuel from any mariners supply store should work fine.