No start after 1.6TD rebuild, FIRST START 6/13!!

[Dakotakid]

So, it is running now?
What does it do if you start it up again? Did it shut off with the key?

Maybe a little heavy on the wd-40. You also had rolled it over many times with cylinders wet with injected fuel.
Does it start now and run OK?

[Rock3tman]

yes, running now.   The pump solenoid shuts the engine off with the key fine.   Restarts easy and after ~5-10 sec. starts to runaway (over 3500 RPM, I'd guess - I haven't let it go any further on such a new engine) even with foot off throttle and arm on pump against the idle stop screw.

I used carb cleaner instead of WD-40 - you may be right that it's still somewhat loaded up:  On the fourth or fifth start I'm still getting pretty big clouds of blue smoke from the bottom of my downpipe (exhaust disconnected downstream from there).   I'll try to capture some more video this afternoon and link to it.   

Should I take the lift pump out of the fuel circuit?    Will the cold start advance make any difference?

[Dakotakid]

Carefully use a small magic marker to mark the current position on the load screw.
Once marked, lefty-loosie (back it out) some and see. I don't know, start with a 1/4 turn. Take time to know/note what adjustment you have made. This may not be the problem.

An engine loaded up with unburned diesel will smoke for quite a while until actually run out. You've probably got unburned fuel out the exhaust ports and into the pipe. It will sit there and sweat and smolder until it is gone.

[Rock3tman]

Backed out load screw 1 full turn and backed out idle stop screw 1 1/2 turns. This solves the runaway, except for when I add some throttle above 1/2 throttle.

The engine has an elevated idle; I'd say about 1200 +/- 200, and it's not smooth.   Injectors were balanced to 1psi and had new nozzles so the supply valves may be the culprit..

What other steps can I take to improve smoothness?

[Rock3tman]

I've got about 3 minutes of running time on the rebuild in six starts: how much longer can I go without ruining future oil consumption/compression/glazing cylinder walls, etc. (I'm using Brad Penn straight 30 wt break-in oil)?   The reason I'm asking is that I've got a little suspension and front brake work to do to get it on the road.   Also I need to clean/pack/re-boot both of the inside CV joints - - one a second time as the boot cracked and failed on just installing the driveshaft!!!

No oil leaks, and I think just a small coolant leak at the front of the head-to-radiator hose.   Still blowing pretty big clouds of blue smoke that smell of unburnt fuel. Thanks to all for the tips to get this beast alive again...

[Dakotakid]

Well, it is in your best interests not to idle this engine. No one can give you a definitive answer.

For future reference, it was super dangerous to not have a solid mechanical way (drive shafts on, wheels on, able to put in gear and dump the clutch, etc.) to stop this engine on initial start up.

What were you (or any one else for future reference) going to do to stop this engine if the key would not have turned it off? That is living on the edge!

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

.................For future reference, it was super dangerous to not have a solid mechanical way (drive shafts on, wheels on, able to put in gear and dump the clutch, etc.) to stop this engine on initial start up.

What were you (or any one else for future reference) going to do to stop this engine if the key would not have turned it off? That is living on the edge!

Pull the spade on the IP shut off solenoid?

[theman53]

.................For future reference, it was super dangerous to not have a solid mechanical way (drive shafts on, wheels on, able to put in gear and dump the clutch, etc.) to stop this engine on initial start up.

What were you (or any one else for future reference) going to do to stop this engine if the key would not have turned it off? That is living on the edge!

Pull the spade on the IP shut off solenoid?

That works if it is fuel, but what about oil runaway? I think that is what is probably the main concern from the post above. CO2 extinguisher, thick cardboard, phone book, etc could be used to cover the intake. I personally like to dump the clutch in gear holding it with the brakes, but if no CV's are attached that could be a little exciting.

[Rock3tman]

I had a small towel ready to stuff into the 1 1/2-to-2 1/2 silicon intake adapter.   My valve cover breather is also disconnected, so I think the only runaway source would be the turbo seals ( not taking into account ring or valve guide blowby).

I hope to have the  suspension bits and the rest put back on by the end of the weekend or so.