Author Topic: Veg oil and EGTs (Read 5940 times)

maxfax · « **Reply #15 on:** October 23, 2008, 06:55:25 pm »

This has been discussed a bit on Vortex and other places... Kinda getting curious about the long term results myself... With access to that amount of old motor oil I can see why you might consider it....

I usually never have enough of the stuff to heat the place for the entire winter, but I just may have to get my fingers on a beater and see what the long term effetcs are... I can always burn some WVO if need be..

allsierra123 · « **Reply #16 on:** October 23, 2008, 09:42:36 pm »

Yeah one of the perks of the job I guess LOL although they all think Im crazy for wanting it.

jtanguay · « **Reply #17 on:** October 23, 2008, 10:13:59 pm »

Quote from: "allsierra123"

i was figuring that. We go through about 1000 gallons of waste a month where I work. So I was wondering how hard it would be to run it.

can i have some of that??? :shock:

maxfax · « **Reply #18 on:** October 23, 2008, 10:46:51 pm »

Quote from: "jtanguay"

can i have some of that??? :shock:

X2 !!! With that amount of oil available I'd be building my self another waste oil furnace to heat my house, and still have tons to spare.

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #19 on:** October 23, 2008, 10:54:19 pm »

some day i will mess with veg oil system!
Duane

maxfax · « **Reply #20 on:** October 23, 2008, 11:08:33 pm »

Quote from: "blkboostedtruck"

some day i will mess with veg oil system!
Duane

I've found it to really be worth the fuss.. 1800 miles to 10 gallons of diesel in the summer months :shock: Winter months I only get about 1000 miles to a tank of diesel... After hours of reading, and looking at the systems offered by the various companies I put together my own setup.. I have less than $600 in setting up the car and building a super sweet filtration/dispensor getup.. Of course that doesn;t count my time in scrouging around for parts, and fabricaion...

I ran my old Rabbit about 125,000 miles on the stuff.. I replaced the headgasket after 113,000 miles of running on it.. Head gasket didn;t fail due to the wvo as far as I can tell.. It was a 1.5 with god know how many miles on it.. (Odometer quit right around 200K)
I wish I woudl have saved the pics, 3 of the cylinders looked typical except #1 which had some excess crap in it.. Turned out I had a bad injector on that cylinder... Can;t say that the injector failed because of the wvo either since it never really ran that smooth before I put the grease to it..

Still thinking about finding some sort of beater and trying some used motor oil in it.. I have a few 1.5's around that I wouldn;t feel too bad about destroying.. Just need a body...

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #21 on:** October 23, 2008, 11:23:23 pm »

maxfax
what was it you spent 600 bucks on? and where else can i find a valve or is that a grease company only item that i would have to buy from them?
me it's just hard for me to scrounge all the parts! i prolly should read up more on the subject too!
Duane

maxfax · « **Reply #22 on:** October 23, 2008, 11:49:08 pm »

The $600 is a ball park figure for various parts... The Flat Plate Heat exchanger, various fittings, hose, line, steel to make the tank, the valves, switches, fuel gauge, oil temp gauge (that I will get re installed someday, for now I just go by the engine temp), and some other crap in there.. I'm including the parts I had to get for the filter housings and plumbing for my filtration system too....

I used valves from a carburated mid 80's F150.. They used them for the dual tanks.. These are electrically operated, and have 3 ports on them so I used 2... One for inlet, one for return..Fairly inexpensive, but not necessarily recomended since they are made from plastic... I've had no troubles with them as of yet.. I have seen metal valves somewhere that weren;t from the companies selling the kits... Both in electric and cable operation.. May have been on ebay or something... There aer some 6 port valves out there too that will handle both the inlet and return.. I preferred not to use them.. Less chance of cross contamination and no good way to purge the WVO at shutdown... With the 2 valves I can simply shut off the inlet valve and let the return keep flowing into the WVO tank.... I'm sure I get some diesel in the WVO tank, but I would rather have that than WVO in my diesel tank...

My tank is actually the bottom 8" of a 55 gallon drum.. I cut out a 3/16 circle and braized it on top to make a lid.. I have a hole cut in the center of the lid with a plate that bolts over it to access the internals.. I skeptically used Eastwoods gas tank sealer on the inside of it.. Wasn't sure how the stuff woudl handle the heat, so far so good.. For heating the tank I have about 10 feet of 1/2" copper tubing coiled around in there.. How hot the tank gets isn;t real critical since it only need to be hot enough for the IP to pump it.. Some only heat the tank, trouble with that is you have to wait till the whole tank full of oil is at 170 deg F before you can switch, and that can take forever. WIth the flat plate heat exchanger the oil is pretty much heated to temp on demand....

http://www.flatplate.com/index.htm

Ultimately I have about an 8 gallon tank that fits in the spare tire well on my Rabbit perfectly.. The only regret I have is that I have no baffle in the thing, and you can really feel it slosh on a hard turn..

I can get some pics tomorrow when it's day light.. They can probably explain things better than I can...

molgrips · « **Reply #23 on:** October 24, 2008, 02:23:59 am »

Loads of info on veg oil running on www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk. I go there for car advice too

There's a sticky on the SVO/WVO forum where one of the more clued up guys tells you why it's ok to run veg oil in an IDI engine. Basically, vapourisation and combustion is initiated in the swirl chamber, so that protects your cylinder walls...

I'll post some pics of the injectors when I pull them, if you want...

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #24 on:** October 24, 2008, 09:32:47 am »

i have been asked what nozzel size it good to run veg. oil thruogh an IDI?
in my nozzel group buy add!
Duane

molgrips · « **Reply #25 on:** October 24, 2008, 01:39:50 pm »

I am using everything stock! I don't think you need to change them...

maxfax · « **Reply #26 on:** October 24, 2008, 04:40:20 pm »

Stock nozzels here as well.. Elsbett that sells a kit to run older IDI diesles on SVO with one tank... I believe they use different nozzels for that..

IDI engine are alot more receptive to veg oil because of the precombustion chamber.... As long as it's warm as it's about impossible to get the chambers cleaned out if they get coked up..

I think I mentioned hearing mixed results with a diesel veg blend... Spoke with the one guy who has several diesle powered trucks and machines.. The IDI engines worked much better than thte DI engines..

maxfax · « **Reply #27 on:** October 24, 2008, 04:54:01 pm »

Anyone ever have an IP opened up that was run long term on WVO???
THere's always the argument that WVO is slightly acidic (which it is) and reaks havoc on IP internals..

No faiures for me so far, and for what I have saved on fuel over the years I think I could justify having the pump fixed if it does damage them..

molgrips · « **Reply #28 on:** October 25, 2008, 05:31:50 am »

Used oil is acidic as far as I know, since the heat applied during cooking food creates free fatty acids (FFAs). I don't think virgin oil is acidic, is it?

maxfax · « **Reply #29 on:** October 25, 2008, 11:35:24 pm »

I had aquired some fuel grade soy oil , and it was pretty close neutral using a crude PH test...