Author Topic: Proportioning valve or pressure reducing valve (Read 6718 times)

clbanman · « **Reply #15 on:** November 09, 2008, 06:12:52 pm »

Yes the top lines go to the wheel cylinders, the bottom to the master cylinder. This http://www.altrom.com/partdetails.jsp?id=1118 is the replacement I bought. When I push the lever in to try and line the holes up, I can't push it far enough by hand to get them to line up. How much force should I use?

jtanguay · « **Reply #16 on:** November 09, 2008, 07:33:01 pm »

Quote from: "clbanman"

Yes the top lines go to the wheel cylinders, the bottom to the master cylinder. This http://www.altrom.com/partdetails.jsp?id=1118 is the replacement I bought. When I push the lever in to try and line the holes up, I can't push it far enough by hand to get them to line up. How much force should I use?

how much did you get that one for???

clbanman · « **Reply #17 on:** November 09, 2008, 10:14:34 pm »

Partsource. $137 with all taxes.

madmedix · « **Reply #18 on:** November 10, 2008, 10:57:19 pm »

Sorry, forgot to add: took me on my back, with my fingers curled around the top of the regulator, it took both thumbs pressing up hard and my helper to slide the zip tie through.

Andy

Josh · « **Reply #19 on:** November 14, 2008, 05:13:47 am »

Did anybody consider installing a cheaper brake proportioning valve, such as those marketed by various "hot rod" retailers? You can get one with 3/16 fittings and a rotary adjustment dial to dial in a decent balance... for around $40.

Is this setup, the stock setup, really that much more functional?

I've got to redo some rear brakes this week, and was leaning towards this approach, which is why I ask.

-Josh

clbanman · « **Reply #20 on:** November 14, 2008, 06:19:07 am »

I think most of the "hot rod" ones you are talking about are designed for a single line to the rear brakes. Your car will have two. If you did go this way, the setting is adjustable but fixed once the hood is closed. The stock version is supposed to be self-adjusting for varying rear axle loads/positioning. I suppose you could plumb in two of these, one for each side of the VW circuit - IE: one for left front/right rear and one for right front/left rear - but I think your cost savings is diminishing.

Josh · « **Reply #21 on:** November 14, 2008, 03:02:23 pm »

Ah, I see! Thanks for the insight; I shall go with OEM-style for certain, then.

madmedix · « **Reply #22 on:** November 28, 2008, 08:38:14 pm »

bump...seen a couple of posts on this and I found an old bookmark file with this in it: http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

Neat little home-made pressure bleeder...

jasonsansfleece · « **Reply #23 on:** December 01, 2008, 09:22:46 pm »

Any reason why one could'ent use Golf type valves (on master cylinder) on a Jetta? Junk all that nonsense under the car?
Guy

clbanman · « **Reply #24 on:** December 02, 2008, 06:17:40 am »

They would work, but you would lose the self-adjusting feature. The two you would need would also cost more than the one under the car, at least they did from my supplier.