Author Topic: Governor mod causing some odd problems (Read 3579 times)

rabbitpower · « **on:** September 21, 2008, 11:17:40 am »

This was my first attempt at modifying one of these pumps as well as resealing one. Unfortunatley I got the resealing right...but the governor a little wrong.

OK. I totally resealed the pump and took out the governor. I shimmed the main spring but left the intermediate alone since it had a shim or two already there.

After fighting with return springs for awhile I got the pump completed

The engine fired right up but I noticed a few odd problems.

1) It runs like crap unless I have the cold start cable pulled out. Sometimes I can push it back in and it will stay running good. There is a fair amount of blue smoke ( Not oil)

2) It idled so high I had to back the throttle ruturn screw out about 1/4"

3) I have a slight part throttle miss, unless I pull the cold start cable out.

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #1 on:** September 21, 2008, 12:00:06 pm »

Hmmmm..... what value did you set the timing to when you reinstalled the pump ?

rabbitpower · « **Reply #2 on:** September 22, 2008, 06:00:10 am »

.95mm

I ended up ditching the dial gauge and loosening the pump, rotating in back towards the engine and now it runs fine with no miss. I am wondering if something in the pump timing advance is stuck.

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #3 on:** September 22, 2008, 09:36:04 am »

Yup, it definitely sounds like the timing was very retarded.

Depending on how many miles your pump has on it, the dial indicator can be misleading... but you certainly have room to add more advance... 1.00mm or even 1.05mm. Checking the pump's internal pressure would also be a good idea..

rabbitpower · « **Reply #4 on:** September 22, 2008, 11:00:51 am »

Quote from: "Vincent Waldon"

Yup, it definitely sounds like the timing was very retarded.

Depending on how many miles your pump has on it, the dial indicator can be misleading... but you certainly have room to add more advance... 1.00mm or even 1.05mm. Checking the pump's internal pressure would also be a good idea..

I think I advanced it now to the point where there is no need for a cold start. The engine does not change pitch when I pull the lever!

Funny thing is that the pump is lined up with the notch on the bracket. At .95mm it was nearly 1/8" in front of the notch ( Towards front of car). Bringing it back to the notch... is as far backwards ( Towards engine) as it will go without straining the line set.

I remember when I took the old pump off ( This new one was a test of sorts) that it too had the pump notch in front of the bracket notch.

I also had to turn the Max RPM screw OUT because i could feel the governor hitting a wall, like it was going to bend before hitting the max RPM screw.

The car really scoots now. I can just imagine what it is like for those of you with a Turbo diesel!

Smokey Eddy · « **Reply #5 on:** September 25, 2008, 03:18:44 pm »

how did you feel it hitting a wall? what do you mean by that?
The rpm would just stop at a point?

rabbitpower · « **Reply #6 on:** September 26, 2008, 06:08:13 am »

Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"

how did you feel it hitting a wall? what do you mean by that?
The rpm would just stop at a point?

When I pulled the throttle lever back ( engine off), just before it contacted the max Rpm screw stop I could feel more resistance that I didn't feel before. It felt as is something were bending inside the pump, hard to explain. I turned the max fuel screw out to stop it sooner, before this tension was felt. Since this was my first go at modding a pump I wanted to play it safe I guess.